abr33

Will do. Im curious to see how much gets trapped.

If its pulling timing you wont be doing damage. How cold was it? Have you driven in same conditions before on this tune?

For a car that does regular track days and hard driving should be ok, but when driven on cold nights etc would pay to be blocked return

And measure them... you wont see 10 thou but will hear it

I can confirm, today i got my oil report, in 2500kms with my can draining to sump, and having done probably 8 hours driving in rain and heavy fog/freezing temps etc my water content is over double the acceptable level. (0.087%) the acceptable is 0.03... Not a massive amount but definately alot. summer might be better... I might block my sump drain..

Damn... how will I be cool without banging and flames n shit? But I never really hit limiter, only by accident... So theres nothing bad about it hey?

I really like the idea of retarding before limiter... whats the cons?

I have a theory.... Might be incorrect... but, talking to the bloke that blue printed my crank, he said to bead blast the coating off where belt runs, and machine the front lip down... Apparently it will help alot. Does make sense, see old machinery uses a flat belt drive (1920's) and the belt climbs to the highest point on the roller/pulley, so I figure the tall lip actually works against us in making the belt climb up it, so try this I will... Does it have to be oem nissan or a standard gates one or the like? And How tight helps for p/s belt? normal tight or uber tight?

This is interesting, my fan tips have tiny tiny rub marks on them. I was going well in excess of 200km/h too. Not sure if that done it though I think it came off when i was in second though...

So why is there the issue on my 25? or has it happened on others?

But can anyone explain why i was doing flat out runs down an airstrip for 30 mins, and drifting around each turning end, and after doing the same thing after doing it 20 times already it comes off? done nothing different. One thing I can say is the belt is quite old and shitty, could it be poor strength belts allowing stretch? Has anyone thrown a gates racing belt? seem to be tougher..

Further to, how do you normally tighten your balancers Daniel? You evidently use flywheel locking gadgets, how do you go about tightening? Im always keen on better ideas

I put in 5th gear with brakes on to tighten it, I really didnt want to go any tighter for fear of breaking something to be honest. And you cant say thats going to damage box or anything as in damn sure the engine will shock the box a shit load harder. Could be wrong though.. This all has me worried, should I just go back to the stock balancer? There were no issues prior, and for slipping 3 teeth on cambelt?!?! what the hell? thats a bloody worry

I used my old torque wrench to get it to 200nm, then small pipe on half inch breaker bar to what i would say about 300 odd nm. Wasnt going to the recommended 440nm. I also used a drop of loctite 263. It all went up square and neat.

Its only a tiny wiggle, most people prob would'nt see it. Crank should'nt be damaged its not long ago been blueprinted and balanced and its done nothing really since that, just road and dyno kms

ok cool thanks very much Paul, glad to hear its not uncommon or real bad. I might just make an idler up :-)

Hi everyone, I found a thread from a while back with similar issues but didnt seem to be the same problem that caused it. Anyway this morning I went to a local airstrip for a bit of fun, I fitted ross tuffbond balancer a few weeks back. Today was the hardest time iv ever given it and was trying to iron out any issues by feeding it some. I wasnt hitting limiter, (maybe a tiny bit) and after 30 odd mins of driving the power steering belt spat it, and im not even sure it did it under big revs, just when flicking it sideways in 2nd i believe. The balancer has a tiny wiggle at idle when I look at it. I think stock one was the same. Unsure if common. I had it pretty tight, and i have revved it out on a lot of occasions without this problem. The belt is also quite old too. I was replacing it soon anyway. Also the pulleys line up properly Id like some input as to the reasons and if its happened very often? Car is r33 with 25. Also off topic, Iv heard of people spinning bearings hitting rises in the road, has this ever happened from large bums in road or more when over crest etc?? Just curious. Thanks for your help

25, stock injectors at the time. should matter as long as your tune is healthy so to speak

Depends on the tune, too rich will fail, too lean will fail. I do happen to know what will make you pass. I did IM240 test here in NSW, presume similar test. I got the cat out of a new bf xr6 turbo, and made it fit my system. its 3" in and outlet. It was literally running euro 4 standard at most points of the test. A normal cat will not flow real well compared the the massive substrate in the falcon cat, in which it has enough time in the substrate to properly convert. Keep in mind, the newer the better. Even a new cat thats had a bad bit of fuel burnt, or slightly poor/rich/lean tune will have glazed the substrate and be useless. I did this after epically failing with x-force cat. Stock ecu also.

I have glowshift oil and water temp gauges, just the digital readout, they are a super small unit fit anywhere easily and reasonably priced. I went autometer for oil pressure for the reliability factor.. But its too dear to buy them all in autometer!

Im not sure but if your running or plan to eventually run e85 you might want at least 3.5 or 4 inch, assuming plumbed wastegate. Otherwise rb30 hybrid dyno thread :-)

I would go back no worries but its a 600+ km drive to do so. If everyones confident the marks will be spot on I will just set it back to 20 degrees. Just sucks I didn't tighten it up properly! I will contact tuner tomorrow and check but im dead sure it was 20 on balancer. Just needed some confirmation thanks

maybe bypass the switch? not sure whether it'll think its way hot or freezing cold but might get it limping?

Thats what I have done, but im getting a different reading now with new balancer, im not sure if balancers are a bit different with readings or iv accidentally moved cas. Im thinking number 2

Hi all, I have a question. My base timing is set at 20 btdc by my tuner, and im sure it was 20 degrees before this, but I have just put on a ross balancer, and whenever i pull stuff apart I disconnect CAS so as to check everything over before re-connection and starting. Now I had a tune 1000 ish kms ago and I had Adjusted CAS previous to that to 20 degrees, he checked it and locked it into the ecu, and said it was good. However when I adjusted it, I hadnt tightened the bolts right up. 2 loose and 1 just nipped up a bit. All would be good but i may have moved it when disconnecting. So I tightened it up where it was. Check timing and its at 15 degrees, now the only variable is the balancer marks, My old one looked ok, I thought it might be rotated a little but seems fine. Now i trust the ross one is perfect. So having retarded timing (i think) i figured no damage can happen, so i went for a drive, I only take it out every few weeks so I didnt notice any power difference. However I did a 4th gear pull right out and it had the odd cough feeling hesitation on full boost a couple of times and throughout the drive. It never has before. So ill get to the point, is there a way to tell where it should be vs where ecu thinks it is? Would the ross timing marks be perfect with stock balancer? Just need some confirmation I dont want to set it at 20 and it be wrong. Im sure iv just bumped it around a tad but not sure if theres a way to make certain so I hope someone can clear this up. Oh and I wasnt doing the 4th pull on the public road either. It was a local private air strip. Thanks in advance