nuffin_werks

ok , im in for 1 of these , however , some stuff needs to be clear up here for every 1 - this is a group buy, with different amounts according to how many buyers. if i pay today for XXX amount and then 25 other people buy them , then what price will i be paying. As you posted above , derlivery is same day or 2- 3 days .... how does that work ? - is there an end date? - why is the pic of the hybrid plate , look like the cooler is second hand ?

Here's the info for the first club meeting: When - Sunday 13 Feb 2005. Time - 1.00pm Where - Stokeshill Wharf (outside seating area) Bring - Pen and paper See you there....

i saw heaps of lines out cruisin last night. seems every1 just cruises from the lights at holden dealer into the city and back.

Turbo’s - Mapping It Out What are you spinning Turbochargers compress air. Everyone knows this. Everyone also knows different turbo’s do it differently. The way in which a particular turbo or, more specifically , the compressor comprising one end of it , compresses air is shown on a compressor efficiency map. Everyone knows about these too, however not everyone knows how to read them properly. In times past, the most difficult aspect of understanding compressor efficiency maps was actually finding one. Most manufacturers didn’t make them available to the general public because it was felt that they’d do more harm than good in the hands of inexperienced users. Turbonetics always include maps in their catalogue but it was about the only company that did. This is changing and more companies are letting people take a look. Garrett, for instance, has decided that releasing technical information is a good thing and their website is heavily geared toward helping amateurs to understand what turbocharging is all about. They even have an electronic newsletter called Garrett Gearhead to which anyone can subscribe free of charge. Also with the release of the GT range of turbo’s, Garrett has published compressor and turbine performance specifications that are accurate enough to use for selecting a turbo suited to your needs. This is a most welcome change of policy. So how is it done Really, a compressor map is just a graph that’s been drawn to represent experimental data obtained by bench testing a particular turbo under laboratory conditions. On such a graph ( pic 1 ) the X-axis (horizontal) represents airflow through the compressor. The Y-axis (vertical) shows the degree of compression that will be achieved for a given amount of air when the rotating assemble of the turbo in question is turning at a certain speed. On the experimental test bench, the output of the turbo being tested is restricted until a condition called ‘surge’ sets in. In basic terms, this is when the outlet fills up with compressed air that can’t get away quickly enough. When this occurs, flow through the compressor reverses releasing the excessive pressure. ( It’s actually considerably more complex than this but I wont go into details in this post ). Once vented in this way, flow from the compressor resumes in the normal direction until the outlet once again fill’s, at which time flow reverses yet again. This process of flow reversal continues at high speed until the conditions causing the restriction are removed. In the test laboratory the restriction is caused by a valve that prevents full flow from the turbo. In service, the condition is caused by selecting and fitting a turbo that’s too big for the engine in question. If the engine can’t take the output of the turbo, surge occurs and, if the condition is continuous, damage to the turbo bearings will occur. The various combinations of speed and airflow at which surge occurs are noted and plotted resulting in the surge line. In the previous paragraphs I touched on a few things, one of them being the Y-axis, or Pressure Ratio. Given that the number is a ratio, its not surprising that it’s obtained by dividing one value by another. In this case it’s Total Pressure divided by Ambient Pressure. In turn, Total Pressure is Ambient Pressure plus Boost Pressure. Therefore, Pressure Ratio is calculated by: Pressure Ratio = ( ambient pressure + boost pressure ) ÷ Ambient Pressure To be entirely accurate, Ambient Pressure is pressure before the inlet to the compressor so any losses through the air filter should be subtracted from it. Additionally, Boost Pressure is the pressure going into the engine, so loses through the intercooler should be added to determine the boost back at the compressor outlet. Including the figures gives the more accurate formula: Pressure Ratio = ( ambient pressure + intercooler loss + boost pressure ) ÷ ( ambient pressure – air filter loss ) The X-axis represents airflow through the turbo. There are different ways of expressing this but for the most part, the figures along this axis will represent pounds of air per minute. This is certainly the case for Garrett and Turbonetics turbo’s. We’re stuck with this state of affairs because most compressor maps that are available come from the U. S which steadfastly refuses to adopt the metric system. So, using imperial figures, we measure engine air consumption in Cubic Feet Per Minute ( CFM ) and this has to be converted to Pounds Per Minute to be of any use in plotting the suitability of a particular turbo /engine combination. Under the conditions at which most compressor efficiency maps are made, one cubic foot of air weighs close enough to 0.070lbs. Therefore, multiplying your flow requirements ( in CFM ) by 0.070lbs will give flow in lbs/min.One formula for determining the flow of a turbocharged engine is: (engine displacement x volumetric efficiency x pressure ratio x revs) ÷ 2 Dividing by two is necessary because we’re talking about four-stroke engines here and each cylinder is filled with mixture on only every second revolution. As an example, a 2.0-litre engine that’s 90% efficient, turbocharged at a pressure ratio of 1.8, turning 7000rpm would work out to be: (2 litres x 0.9 x 1.8 x 7000) ÷ 2 = 11340 To convert litres to cubic feet you multiply by 0.0353 and doing so in this case gives: 11340 litres x 0.0353 = 400 cubic feet per minute Now that we’ve gone from litres to cubic feet we just have to multiply the result by the weight of the air to end up with lbs/min as shown here: 400 cubic feet per minute x 0.07 = 28 pounds This figure you’d use in finding a suitable turbo for such an engine. You’ll note that 0.9 was transposed for 90% in the example shown. Doing so simplifies this, and many other equations. Also, 90% is a bad efficiency figure for a modern four valve engine. Air passing through a turbo takes a decent pounding by the time it’s forced to make a 90° turn across the spinning impeller and then fight its way out through the diffuser. Inevitably the speed at which all this occurs causes it to become heated. Efficiency in a turbo really means the degree to which the air emerging from the outlet has been heated. More heat, less efficiency; less heat; more efficiency. The strange ‘island’ type lines on a compressor map represents regions of efficiency. The central island always represents the region of highest efficiency and the figure for this area is usually around 70 – 80%. Moving further out into the larger islands represents reduced efficiency and higher temperatures. Obviously, the aim is to find a turbo with operating characteristics that see your maximum flow rate firmly in the middle of the region of highest efficiency. The other lines on a compressor efficiency map represent the rotational speed of the impeller (and rotating assembly as a whole). From the surge line you can see that the lines stay relatively flat and level for a bit but then starts to take a downward slope. The downward slope indicates that the impeller is reaching a point at which it can’t pass anymore air. The flow rate at which the speed line slopes downward so sharply it can be considered vertical is the maximum flow for the particular turbocharger in question. At this point, it doesn’t matter how fast you turn the impeller, no more air can get through the cover. This condition is called ‘choke’ and, like surge, it’s a condition to be avoided. When a turbo is operating well into conditions of choke the rotating assembly will spin very fast and the aerodynamic efficiency with which the blades interact with the air will be virtually nonexistent. Not surprisingly, this will lead to very hot outlet temperatures. Garrett points out that a turbocharger operated in this way will suffer durability problems. Selecting That Turbo So in selecting a turbo, you want to keep your operating point to the right of the surge line, to the left of the choke lines, and in the region of maximum efficiency. To determine if a particular turbo will be suited to your needs you need to work out the airflow requirements as shown above. Then, you need to find the point on the airflow axis (horizontal X-axis) and take a vertical line from that point straight upwards (line 1 on the map figure 1). Then, you should select the pressure ratio you’ve decided to use from the vertical (Y-axis) and extend a horizontal line (line 2) across the graph at that level until it reaches the line representing your airflow. The point at which these lines meet is your maximum operating point. If it’s in the correct region of operation as described above, your half way there. Because the surge line slopes to the right, its closer to the X-axis at lower flow rates. Turbo’s are usually on substantial boost by the time they hit half maximum revs so this point must also be plotted on the map to ensure that its safely positioned in relation to the surge line. Half revs can be considered to correspond to about half the maximum flow rate for this purpose. Therefore, locate the point of half maximum flow on the X-axis and extend a vertical line upwards (line 3) until it meets your nominated pressure ratio. If it falls to the right of the surge line things are looking even better. The last thing to do is plot a point at 20% of maximum flow and at a pressure ratio of one, and join this line (line 4). If this last line is also to the right of the surge line, the turbocharger represented by the map could be the one for you. We say that a turbocharger that seems to match your requirements in the way described to this point may be the one for you because it may not be exactly what you need. Using a compressor map is just the first step in finding out what turbo is best for you. After you’ve narrowed the field down using the maps, the next step is to get the turbo, bolt it on, strap the whole assembly onto a engine dyno and begin testing. Remember that if you get lost reading though this and don’t understand compressor maps properly the best solution is to call a turbo specialist. Most of them have years of experience and will generally know what combinations go well with what engines and can guide you from there. All info was gathered from various performance car magazine articles as well as Garrett turbochargers website. I am aware that if I’m mistaken in publishing this data I will in due course withdraw the submission. Nuffin_werks

how about you post in the right area ............ like - WANTED TO BUY

hey champ , read the rules : NO ADVERTISING FOR A FRIEND, GET THEM TO SIGN UP .

pfft , still a crappy playstation , if it's not an x-box , it's not

stock suspension is mounted to the shock tower by a preset mounting specification a pillowball top for your suspension top will allow your to change how the top of your suspension is positioned . will give you a good degree of adjustment , however i cant see any strenth upside though, as it mounts basically the same. my 2 cents

lol

it seemed this thread got whored more than a proper reply posted ... anyway so i dont start another thread : - the r33 gts-t stock turbo is same size as what garreat/khs turbo im wanting to upgrade and there is so many different turbo's out there claiming this and that and saying you need this trim and that flow rate and this flange size and that wastegate actuation ability ahhhh , some 1 please explain without whoreing and bullshiting what you think will be the best setup in your opinion

a cop hey ..... maybe i'll just moderate his ass..... ha ha ha not

hey guys , these pics below are what the r33 manual has to say about this topic... hope it helps some cheers ron

ive got the GReddy Full Auto Timer the silver one, anyway i got it for about $150 and it had all kinds of extra pooh on it that i'll prolly never use but here are some of the features bulit into it : - parking brake security function - auto timer ( calculates diff rpm ranges/time eng runs and adjust timer automatically ) - 2x presets 1min and 3 mins ( can be changed manually in 10sec / 30sec increments ) - shows battery voltage - battery warning mode ( high & low ) - lap modes ( store and recall upto 30 laps ) - lap split mode - time attack ( 0-200m,0-400m,200-400m,0-100km/h,0-200km/h,50-1000km/h ) - speedometer mode (displays current speed / speed warning alert ) - RPM display mode - comes with all wiring harness and plugs thats about it , i downloaded the instruction manual of da internet as the manual in box is in japanese. happy hunting rono

- dash surround plastic with all attachments ( bottons, clips, clock, vents ,coin holders etc etc ) - gear stick plastic surround including ash tray - drivers side plastic arm rest with window/ door control switches can you send me pic's and prices to : [email protected] cheers ron

pm sent

here is your wiring diagram guys... i have they same r33 service manual as tom_g its has everything ...... cheers ron

lol

ahhh this seems to be fixed now , awesome thanks Prank ron

well if your gunna live up here and work , you need to get your rego changed within like 3 months i think , but the MVR motor vehicle registery will require you to go over there pits for inspection for rego ... i had no prob's with my car , but others have had to change the odd thing or to , just depends on there mood and who you get . if ya have any prob's when ya get here let me or RBNT know and we can arrange stuff if needed. http://www.ipe.nt.gov.au/whatwedo/mvr/regi...interstate.html good luck with the move cheers ron

whats this LIFT they all talking about between gear changes , is this the new V-tec thingy for toyota's

mate i just replaced both mine on the front callipers , i got them through the local nissan dealership here in darwin - though they came ex melb. cost was like $15 ea for 2 brand new spring plates.... that included freight so i guess it will be cheaper - i am assuming your on about the spring type cross plate the stop's the pads from floating and are clipped under the 2 pad pins ... yeah ?

you guys getting out at all this weekend ?

ok this is a list so far that ive come across of those company's that make a 3 point immobilizer system : 3 point brand phone model price Autominder 1800 060 060 250 (Electronic key)TPI (Transponder) $369$389 Cobra (02) 9369 3144(03) 8872 5200 (07) 3397 4207 803 (Electronic key) $299 Hyundai NSW 0417 325 872(03) 9482 2203 QLD 1800 621 320 00244-00108 (Transponder) $270 Rhino (02) 4577 4708 VIC 1300 307 067 (07) 3359 3195 TPI (Transponder) $249 Shurlok (02) 9328 0855 ER 150 (Remote Key) POA 2 Point Brand Phone Model Fitted Price* ACP 1800 730 090 Touch-Up (Key switch) $275 Alarm Master (02) 9369 3300(03) 8872 5222 (07) 3397 4207 2600 (Remote key) $249 Ambush (02) 9809 1300(03) 9558 3390 QLD 0418 804 008 Antitheft (Remote key) $350 Antitheft (02) 9879 7022 AI 283 (Remote key) $545 Autobarn 132 434 FX100 (Electronic key) $199 Autominder 1800 060 060 250 (Electronic key) $249 Autopage (02) 9369 2000 (03) 8872 5222 (07) 3397 4207 AP2600 (Remote key) $249 Autoscan 1800 644 631 1000 (Electric Key) $199 2000 (Remote Key) $290 Autowatch NSW 0417 911 603(03) 9689 6099 (07) 5537 7999 674 (Remote key)573 (Transponder) 629 (Electronic Key) $249$289 $189 Black Widow (02) 9744 6877 BW7000 (Remote key) $499 CAI NSW 0417 325 872 (03) 9482 2203 QLD 1800 621 320 ZVS140 (Transponder)ZVS10 (Electric Key) $249$199 Cobra (02) 9369 3144(03) 8872 5200 (07) 3397 4207 802 (Remote key) $249 Crime Alert 1300 368 321 CA650 $550 Cyclops 1300 368 882 P145 (Electronic key) $149 (03) 9737 0505 P165 (Electronic key) $169 (07) 5547 7377 P205 (Transponder) $249 P375 (Remote key) $299 Defense Pak NSW 1800 817 461VIC 1800 655 326 QLD 1800 686 186 DP/RTI (Transponder)DP/DRI (Remote key) DP/TK AS (Electronic key) $349$395 $225 Flashpoint (02) 9318 2444VIC 0438 534 716 (07) 3369 3033 FP120SA $295 Hyundai Hyundai Dealers 00244 29500 (Lantra) (Remote key)00244-22001 (Excel) (Electronic key) $278$199 Laserline NSW 0419 944 322 QLD 0412 444 122 (08) 9248 2155 L450 (Remote key)L350 (Transponder) L250 (Electronic key) $349$259 $199 Mobilelock (02) 9369 3300(03) 8872 5222 (07) 3397 4207 Mobilekill (Remote key) $499 Mongoose (02) 9482 4444(07) 3344 7611 MX40 (Remote key) $199 Piranha (02) 9318 2444VIC 0438 534 716 (07) 3369 3033 SC120SA $295 Razor 1800 818 288 R355 (Remote Key)R385 (Remote Key) $395$449 Rhino 1300 307 067 RES4601 (Remote key) $299 Shurlok (02) 9328 0855(03) 9482 2203 (08) 9444 4000 FP10 POA Sol Ace NSW 1800 817 461VIC 1800 655 326 QLD 1800 686 186 RB/RTI (Transponder)RB/RI (Remote key) RB/TK (Electronic key) $295$295 $199 Strathfield Car Radios 131 177 AS 1000 (Electronic key) $199 Paralyser 355 (Remote key) $249 Paralyser 205 (Transponder) $249 Paralyser 165 (Touch Key) $169 Paralyser 145 (Electronic Key) $149 Tint-a-Car NSW 1800 817 461 RB/RTI (Transponder) $295 VIC 1800 655 326 RB/RI (Remote Key) $295 QLD 1800686 186 RB/TK (Electronic Key) $199 Vision (02) 9826 7017 (03) 9335 2411 (07) 3357 1255 VAE 315-120 (Electronic key) $199 Zylux NSW 0417 325 872(03) 9482 2203 QLD 1800 621 320 ZVS 10 (Electronic key)ZVS140 (Transponder) $199$299 all info was gathered from nrma website... prices may only be guides.....

oh , who owns the fully sik purple/blue r32 that parked outside of the holden dealership . nice car. and i seen a wine red r33 gtst at nth rocky today also , good to see a few of you huys get out an about