RBVS

yea i will try that. the head is off at the moment, cleaning after a blown turbo. so ill give it a go when every things back together. :headspin:

I Have a rb25det fitted in a vs commodore. I also have the same prob. happens on a worm start , ethier starts then stalls a few times, or drive around the corner and stall at the lights or stop sign. just thought there maybe be more to it.

HERE HERE

quick fit exhaust in morley 9271 2040 , 3inch dump fitted for around $300

i got my bosh 044 for $380 new but you'll prob find a gtr fuel pump will do and be a bit cheaper.

id go with split dump, cant hurt

The way id look at it is, what your planning to do with future mods. If your planing to change your inlet plenum to a front facing type then it would be easyer to mod pipe work thats run across in the engine bay. the intercooler still works fine when run this way. Prob would be easyer givin your gtr cooler is set up that way. runing the pipe work back to the standard set up would prob cost less as you can use standard pipe work. Both ways you still have to cross the hot engine to TB. heat wrap is another tacktic used to try and keep inlet temps down, it will help to a small degree but some of the cons that people have told me is it can cause corrosion from traped moisture. i have wraped the standard crossover pipe and not had any problems.

been told that wouldnt realy see a gain in a port and polish until huge hp. what would be the best degree cam if just using exhast? can anyone help

gts-t vspec what colour is your car, im know iv seen those plates befor

took my rb25det head off and am looking to make the most bag for my buck. -the most obvious being match port and polish. unsure off cost cant be that hard to do myself. -valves, what type, price and gains can be had? -cams, from what i can find in seach Tomei poncam's 256 to 260 give good gains across the rev range. would it still be posible just to fit exhast cam as alot of people do or is that a wast off time? any info would be great cheers

so much good infomation comes though this site its hard to keep up. I personally am interested in the rb25det as i have one. So i want to start a thred were we can create a mod manual that people can add too. I am curently stripping my engine down after a blow turbo has spat its guts though my cooler and into the engine. (dam air filter cam off) so been searching for modes i can do with out going to extreme and high cost. What i have found: ( most info from SydneyKids posts ) - use oil coolers, mount in a spoiler vet to get better flow. - 9 to 1 compression or close to - use the standard nissian head gasket, but 0'ring the block. aparently they seal better than a metal. - standard injectors are ok , but use a fuel pressure regulator. -upgrade fuel pump minimum, GTR fuel pump -Restrict the oil flow to the cylinder head, there are 2 feeds from the block to the head, block off one of them which is the same as an rb26,standard. -use safe air fuel ratios 12 to 1 as a limit -Tomei poncams 256 to 260 give good power increase over stock through out rev range. They also dont need adjustment and standard timing gears can remain. -rb30 bottom end is not good bang for buck when talking street cars It would be great if people could state their best mods or worst. so we can create a very usefull thread, cost of mods would be great I hope this gets people started.

you can try and reset the standard ECU by disconecting the batary and letting go flat. then when conected again the ecu will adjust to new conditions. settings like boost cut and so on will still operate but you should fined a better tune. I would run 12psi as i think its best suited to standard set up. I also found that running 14psi there is little to no gain on the standard turbo as air is much hotter. I Have a larger cooler as well. its more important to hold the boost and not have it bleed back 2psi which happens alot. as for a controler to use, i would buy a $100 bleed valve or go all out and get a ecu that can control boost

on ozperformance you can get a JD? custom plenum for 650, then prb find a xf,xe throttle body for 50+, thats what i was looking at doing when upgrading. as for cams not sure on performance gains when going for bang for ya buck. still most of the time it can be worth paying that little extra it get proven parts

i got this one from zoom no69, "gateway to power"

if your keeping the stock turbo a good little trick is to grind out the wast gate a mil or two, you can take more but have to modify a bigger gate to cover the hole. if you got the engine out, it would be easy. resalts being better flow and less lag.

DId you sell or still for sale