RBVS

freebaggin: what injectors are you using? how much did they cost?

yea i was thinking about what you said with cars with stock injectors dont seem to last. Also i think it is the spray pattern not covering evenly , hence other spots on the pistons not being cooled. freebaggin: i have been looking into the rb30 bottom, just have to check iv got room to move 30mm up. yea if anyone can give a price or advice for building a 25 or 30 bottom end would be help full, just the build as im going to try slapping the head back on and dropping it back in to keep cost down.

yea its at sst now. ill speak to them on the weekend , would be good to have some suggestions. thanks for ya help man, appreciated.

yea that pritty much what i was thinking. I would be doing about the same running low boost for daly driving then wind it up for a crusie or a trip to the drags. I dont have the money to do a full build but seems a waste not to do somthing. Could you sudjest a mild build option which would work out cheaper but give it a bit more strenght. meaning what is the weekes link in the bottom end? thanks for the reply

so 260rwkw at a 1bar to 1.3 is safe in a stock rb25 with good tune and fuel supply. reason i ask is because seems i have done a big end or small end bearing with stock turbo. i have brought a t3/t4 with a ar .63 which i was told would produce around 350hp at a bar. The power im looking for is 350 to 380rwhp. the bottom end will be exposed to fix the problem bearing and i have a rough quote of 4000-4500 to rebuild with forgies ex... but if its safe to get that power out of stock i wouldnt bother as i am very tight for the money. how long has your car been running this set up and power? cheers for any help you can offer

hi boo5t, i can see in the old set up nothing was t'ed into the hose heading to actulartor. in the new pic. new piping set up the hose heading to the actulator is T'd with the boost gage. this could act as a restrictor and lower pressure to the actulator making it swing the gate less than the old set up causing more boost. try running a hose in a clean run from plenum to actulator. Ting in to the pipe work should give the same affect as plenum.

I'll be checking prices with Nissan in the morning and I'll update this thread with the price. please do as i have a buggerd coil also (rb25).

worth a down load, lol

didnt know you could get black and red rb's thought it was just the sr's, interesting oops, black or silver, with rbs, should pay more attention.

thats good to hear. the stock set up is good for stock but when you change things, mod, then you have to balance out the other stock aspects of the set up. good effort mate happy to help

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ebc will not fix the problem. if you have tied the wast gate back so it is always fully open how is a ebc going to help. if you realy want to run less boost put the standard dump back on.(restrict the flow) or you could go to the effort of removing the turbo, dine grinding the wast gate out 1 or 2 mm but not to big so the gate doesnt cover the hole, also grind away the angle the exhaust flows though the gate. I wouldnt bother, 10psi is fine you just need to be able to keep it their. the other thing coul be like you said somthing obstructing the flow though the gate, but 10psi seems normal to me.

I know for a fact you can use a rb30 water pump on a rb25. And yes the rb30 parts are cheaper. also tell them to look at an NZ catalogue they list parts for imports as the rb25. in the oz ones you'll only fined rb30 as was in the commodore.

runing a hose straighti from plenum to actulator is going to give you your minimum machanical boost. The wast gate will open as soon as it reaches 7psi which is around the standard spring rate. having a 3'' exhaust will flow alot better than stock which will increase boost and excessively more in the top end which is what you are seeing. i ran 10psi minimum then when removing the cat could not run less than 13psi. I dont think there is anything wrong, i would sudjest a restrictor or bleed valve to bring boost on strong to 10psi for more stable boost control.

yep just done the same thing. i just put a bolt that griped and threded the hose to block the back one, also put a bit a silicon on the thred befor winding it in.

after more idle time the car is now running on what seems to be 4 cyclinders someone please help :kick:

i have taken the head of my rb25, cleaned it , then put it back on. i understand that the head would have lost all the oil and lube when being left for so long. we ran the car for 20mins but the knock remained. i got some valve clean that is mixed to the oil to free stuck valves, ran another 20mins gave it a rev and the knock went but only at idle. as soon as you rev you can hear it. did a oil change and the knock has come back at idle and increases with revs. anyone had a simular problem when replacing head, what can you do to help free this knock?

yea i might look at the exhaust cam and keep the standard inlet cam. (what the jms car had at one stage)

im sure you can fined heaps of info on www.silviawa.com in the forums , worth a look.

per4manz turbos do a t3/t4 brand new for $2000-$2200, bolt on to standard dump and manafold, no mods to oil lines. at one bar looking at around 350rwhp with better midrange response than stock. iv just fitted mine and should be getting tune next week. when comparing to a hks say 2530 its around same price as a second hand, flows more and is a bolt on fit.

not sure if im eligable to join , with conversion? dif manufacture form engine to body.

I posted this up so long ago and did realy put alot of thought into it, i mean you can just do a search in the area of mods you interested in. But if people would like to ad there formula to make good power then get stuck in. thanks for taking the time steve. mentoz: hey jame yeah it was fun whiping past some 4wd in a fwd pulsar just didnt think about having to slow down to turn around, (boged, and having every person shake there head as they went past.) good old days.

im under the impresion all intercoolers are legal as long as they are contained within the car bodys profile.

at the licenceing center, fill out an modification form, i got permits for piller guages a have two, air pod, upgraded intercooler and pipe work, basicly anthing thats not stock. iv been pulled over, or stuck i a car park on a crusie and these permits have saved my ass heaps. o and the permit for the conversion, i never had to see any enginers, no body work had to be cut. This is all done just at the general licenceing center.

i know for a fact in wa its not illegal to have pillar mounts, mine went over the pits no probs, they also gave me a permit so i wouldnt be haseld. It does have to be set back behind s-wheel distance(reason of hitting head). I also think they mite have a prob with crome cups, but black is fine if mounted in correct position.