Steve

Boost I understand, but power I dont? What boost pressure do you recommend upping spring rate? Cheers

Lucky your car was on the dyno when it happened, you dont get too many chances with lean mixtures at load.

That is confusing, but interesting news. I have been told by a turbo repair facility that the only way to rebuild them was to replace the core, that it wasnt repairable on its own. I also have a mate who took their advice and ended up buying a core for his GT25, at around 1.5K, they arent cheap. Do you have any idea why places like GCG dont sell repair kits? I would love as much info as you have on this, and some photos with step by step would be awesome. Thanks for the info, sort of makes HKS turbos look even more attractive second hand:D

If you want to save money, I will trade you my short engine for yours, and a cash adjustment:D

DAMQIK, if it is the rubber hose, all he would be experiencing is a loss of power.

RedLineGTR, Rob's car is definately a mile up on power. Who cares if you loose a few kw at the top end - how many people bounce redline in every gear when they drive? The only thing that is good for is winning dyno comps. The mid range is sooo much meatier, which is where the real performance is esp for a streeter.

HKS turbos are made by garrett. You will not find a garrett turbo that will match a HKS turbo. HKS has proprietry on the compressor wheels, also its turbine housings and compressor housings are made for HKS only, by garrett - they will not sell these to anyone else but HKS. If you want a garrett turbo, best bet would be to pick a compressor (via compressor map), then look at getting a similar (you cant get the same) sized housing to the HKS equivilant that is recommended for your car. If you are patient, and scout around, you can pick up a good second hand HKS turbo for a reasonable price - just takes time, keep an eye out, and be ready to pounce. Word of caution though, make sure you check the turbo out properly, as once they go, you need to replace the entire centre as they arent rebuildable.

One from left field, what sort of bov are you running? Have you checked it is holding boost? correctly adjusted?

It would be interesting if you could create a mirrored (180 degrees out of phase) frequency to the harmonic, with the same amplitude, and then it would be completely cancelled out. they do this with sound, in high noise environments, so it shoud work with an engine. Ah theory..... The answer just hit me! a horizontally opposed 12 cyl 6 litre engine! Sorry got a bit carried away.

Greenline are probably the cheapest I have seen - not sure on availability, best e-mail and ask them I suppose. HKS cams are suitable with NVCS

Buy some back issues of HPI, all your questions will be answered. For turbo, HKS 2835 (new can be had for 3.5k, second hand around 2-2.5 in good condition) very good repsonse and builds boost quickly or something like a TD06 - bush bearing, wont spool up as quickly but will be cheaper and can be rebuilt. Or, you could read boostds thread about his home made high flow. Basically a stock turbo with a larger compressor wheel and a vg30 turbine housing that has been opened up. Once again though, a bit more lag than a something like the 2835.

I had a full N1 system (just a big pipe, small muffler) and it was bloody loud - gave me headaches. I got a heap of quilting material from spotlight, and lined the boot and behind the rear seat - that made it alot more bearable and only cost about 5 dollars for the material and same for some spray glue. I decided to get a quiet system, to avoid any attention from the plods, so went out and bought a Nismo dual muffler 80mm cat back. It is alot quieter, but still barks in anger:) The other big difference I noticed though, was a very prominent loss in power, and more lag - my car felt very sluggish and lethargic, but it was quieter. Bottom line is, performance has a price, not always just dollars.

Poll: Should people be able to post lame polls? All your 'test driving experience' and you dont know what a BOV does? I think perhaps you should find out what a bov does, and the fact that it is necessary, and the fact that factory ones fail, and the fact that an adjustable aftermarket one is necessary when you run BIG boost, and the fact that a good aftermarket part will perform better than a stock one, and the fact that even with a stock bov when you put a pod on a car you can hear it quite loudly. And, who gives a rats arse if anybody thinks they are wank - do you buy a set of wheels for a car because other people think you should buy them. If you do a mod to a car, do it because you want to, not because someone else tells you that you should - or should not. I have a trust type R bov, plumbed back (to avoid defects). The plumbing is stainless pipe, the pod is enclosed in an aluminium box - and you can still hear it. Do yourself a favour. Drive a car with a stock bov and light mods (exhaust, cooler, boost, pod, ecu) - then drive the same car with a properly adjusted aftermarket bov THEN tell me you dont know whether or not they should be fitted. Even with exhuast and pod a decent, properly adjusted bov will make an appreciable difference to lag between gear changes.

I can beat that, 19years, no points down I am older:p and WTF is a gold liscence, is it like a amex gold card - give you special discounts on fines of something:)

Depends on who makes it for you, I paid about $50-80 from memory, but that was acutally two plates that had been ground to match the manifold and turbine - so not expensive

I dont want to buy your car, but hippy will buy your grill:D Good luck with the sale, sounds like a bargain, esp when you consider what car yards sell them for.

Well according to BOOSTD who has the NT555, not the 555R, so not even the top of the range, they stick well in the wet. He is putting down over 260rwkw, so I will take his word for it. Thead is here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=25117

Dont see why, I have a GT30 with GT25 flange on my RB 25, with and adaptor plate of course:)

More bumpage

Just wind up the boost:D

but no grip in the wet

True what you say about second hand, you can get burnt, but there are some great bargains too. Make sure you get the turbo checked out properly before buying, the only problem with Garrett turbos is they dont have the resale of a HKS. The reason I bought HKS second hand turbos up was as a stopgap between getting a turbo suitable for 300rwkw, and now. For your budget you probably wont get a good turbo capable of supporting 300rwkw, and be responsive enough that you dont end up with a lagmonster. Good luck anyways

That power curve looks soooooo much better than before. Looks like it would be a bit of a weapon now, before it looked like a big laggy stip monster:D (didnt want to say so before:p please dont take offence) Anyways, enjoy the excellent result, as I am sure you will. I dont know if you saw the posts by BOOSTD, but he got an extra 13rwkw top end, and he believes around 20+ midrange, with boost starting 300rpm earlier from an adjustable exhaust wheel - definately worth a look in, and relatively cheap;)

If you buy a cheap turbo, thats what you get. For your budget, I think you may be pushing it a bit, esp as you are looking for around 300rwkw. You could get a turbo that will make that figure within your budget, but what about response and efficiency? My recommendation would be something like a GT35R that Per4manz turbos in WA sell. They have had some good results (it has been developed in house) with this turbo on RB25s, and 300rwkw is well within its range. It will bolt on with adaptor plates, but will need an external gate. The turbo itself sells for under 2.5K, a second hand gate probably $4-500. From there it would be possible to fit the gate to the turbine housing, but you will of course need to have a dump made. Per4manZ actually do a package, fitted for around 5K with tuned lenght manifold. This acutally is really cheap when you add on the added costs of oil and water lines and pipeage to and from the turbo, fitting, gaskets, head studs etc. Remember too that with 300rwkw, you will probably need to decompress the engine, or do a rebuild with forged internals:) Other considerations will have to include clutch, fuel pump and injectors, and a new AFM or running from MAP(assuming you already have an aftermarket ecu). For the sort of money you outlined, realistically, an upgraded turbo wont come near to the sort of power you are chasing. Something like a HSK 2530 or 2835, second hand if you can pick one up (which you should be able to) for under 2K, with associated change to pipeage and sale of your own turbo, would come close to coming in on budget. This will give you a noticeable improvement to the stock turbo, but not up around 300rwkw. With a 2530 or 2835, when you go to sell it, you will get most of your money back, if not all. To me a high flow would be somewhat of a waste, as you will get no where near your purchase price back. Even with a 2530 or 2835, you will still be looking at clutch upgrade (if not already done) and fuel pump, plus an AFM - but these would probably be needed either way. And you will need some tyres with grip:) Sorry, waffled on a bit:D

HKS 2835S PRO (internal gated)T3 flange, will bolt into the stock position, one by itself should be awesome on RB25. Grepin is getting one done soon (hurry up:D), so he will be able to give you the good oil.