Steve

:bahaha:

Think Gradenko only modded the TB nothing else. I would love to see back to back on the dyno stock vs aftermarket comparsions. Which magazines/issues are we talking about? Do you have any before/after dynos to demonstrate? I think this comparison was probably the best I have seen to date as it was a throttle body change - nothing else. Just a shame there wasnt a before and after dyno result. Also sydneykid - you state that a forward facing plenum would be worthwhile if taking the car beyond 450bhp, then use Ben Ellis as an example, but he is putting down more than 450bhp, perhaps he does need to look at doing one:p might just put down more than 294rwkw. Ben if you are reading this - lets see a back to back plenum tech file...PLEASE, would be interesting on a car putting down healthy power:) Perhaps then sydneykid could have a rest:D

the injectors are secured into the fuel rail. Just remove the plenum (big job), unclip the injectors - remove 3 bolts securing the fuel rail to the intake runners and disconnect the fuel lines. When the rail comes out, the injectors come out with them. Take the rail with the injectors in place to get flow tested/cleanded.

I changed mine (coppers) after about 10,000kms. They still seem ok, but at less than $20 a set who give a .......

Removing injectors from the rail: First, use liberal amounts of CRC or similar. You can use a couple of screwdrivers under the sides of the injectors to gently prise them up and allow the crc to penetrate. Let them sit for 10-15 minutes, then carefully try and prise them up using screwdrivers - they do set like concrete, they just dont want to budge. Bottom line is you just have to be patient and keep trying. I ended up cracking the plastic lug holes at the sides (where you put the screwdrivers), then I got really pissed off and just tapped the pintle with a hammer - that got the little buggers out - luckily they were being replaced with bigger ones so it didnt really matter. The injectors didnt end up getting damaged, except for the little plastic recesses that sit around the sides (where you put the screwdrivers). Those littel plastic feet are pretty difficult to source (gradenko had some drama, might be worth asking him about that one). Actually gradenko posted up his experiences in a thread about fitting 550cc Sard injectors. Best way I would suggest is to get them flow tested in the rail, then if you have a problem with one injector, just have to remove the faulty one.

Well then, my response has been removed:)

If you can get away with not removing the injectors, ie get them cleaned in the fuel rail - do it. Removing injectors has got knobs on it - cars that use ULP seem to get the injectors almost welded in place, they just dont want to budge.

whats that, you were in the hills and you werent speeding? lol

$1350? I am quite sure it would be cheaper to buy some billet and get naked 16 year old virgins to gently wear them into shape by rubbing them on the insides of their thighs. Hmm did I just write that or think that:D

.

With cooler and exhaust, boost etc I was running NGK BCPR6ES (copper) gapped to 0.08mm - worked much better than the stock ones which are a heat range warmer and gapped at 1.1mm.

And its probably rooted at that price:)

have a look in the performance section. to roughly quote 'sydneykid' who uses arp bolts you have to order them by dimension, ie measure lenght, width and thread - then order from your local arp bolt supplier. This is because arp have contracts with major Japanese companies, and are under obligation to sell bolts manufactured specifically to them alone.

I was under the impression that he never got his 12, just low 13s?? BOOSTD managed a 12 with stock turbo, but he had a cooler.

Nice before and after, thanks.

In a word - yes It would probably be fine even if you intend going a larger turbo as well, something like a HKS2530. the best sized cooler is one that is optimum for your hp goals - too big and you will get extra lag and a more sluggish throttle response. going by the aftermarket coolers I have seen (not too many, so please dont take my words for gospel) a 'good' cooler of the dimensions you quote should be good for over 400bhp. to quote http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/make_model...skyline_r33.asp Note this isnt a Jap brand name cooler that they are talking about, but a local product. I have no reason to believe that a japanese product is going to be inferior:) A bit of that is probably sales pitch, but I dont think it would be far enough away from the truth that it wouldnt be reasonable to expect good performance at up to 400 or 450bhp my 0.02 anyways

Not with cars

shit loads:D (there is always one in every bunch)

Reasonable eh, well it continues, I havent had a chance to return the plenum as yet, but I just got a phone call from Toll, the transport company that hills used to send the plenumback to me, after I had returned because it had the wrong throttle body flange on the plenum. Toll have been told by Hills that Evan was to pay the shipping associated with the return (from sydney to adelaide) of the supposedly repaired plenum. Evan understandably told them his thoughts on the matter, so now Toll are chasing me - they didnt get my phone number off Evan, as he only has my mob number, and they rang my wife at home. I just got off the phone to them and they stated that they were told I was to pay for the postage..... this is the postage associated with the plenum being returned because Hills didnt get it right (I am already out of pocket for the return of the plenum when it was received and found to be incorrect) I have tried to ring Hills, but havent been able to get through. So Kit-01J, does that sound, as you stated ' perfectly reasonable aproachable and fair' ??????

Mark, you can get adaptors for blitz ss bov to plumb back, trust do a type s bov that plumbs back. I dont understand how it would cause your car idle poorly only when on a hill though? I had a turbosmart amto BOV for nearly a year without any dramas. Also you could try adjusting the lift point a bit higher if it is causing over fueling or lifting at low revs.

Hippy, I used to work in the used car industy - I got out because there were too many cases where people didnt even leave a deposit and were held to contracts - basically the ploy was that to see if you could get the finance, just sign the form. Once finance was approved, the car was sold - cut and dried, because the paperwork had been signed and it is a legally binding contract. I do believe that it is fair if you leave a deposit, then change your mind that the deposit is forfeight. It might piss you off if you see something nicer, but as pointed out, if someone else wants to buy the car but doesnt because it is potentially 'sold' (the deposit has been put down) then car yards would go out of business.

I am after an oil filter remote mount with thermostat inbuilt, also the take off that mounts to the block In adelaide Cheers Steve

Try www.d1garage.com if you have no luck here - they have some.

Plugs? when was the last time you changed them?

B-man, perhaps pm sydneykid, he seems to know of some rods that fit RB that arent actually made for RB so perhaps he has the good oil on rod bolts too?. But either way, when he builds an engine, I doubt he would use standard rod bolts. Sydneykid......?