Steve

Well I am not sure if this is the prob, but does the pump have a non return vavle fitted? I have seen the non return valve taken off the top of 044 pumps to make them easier to connect. I am sort of guessing , but when at idle the fuel pump will switch on and off as fuel pressure increases and decreases, just like when you turn the ignition on and dont start the car, the pump will prime then shut down. I am thinking that perhaps the pump is shutting down, and fuel may be returning back down the lines, which isnt a major problem until you are facing up a hill. Have a look at boostmeisters low engine rpm stalling thread, goes into detail of wiring fuel pumps to be constantly on to avoid such dramas. Not sure if this is your prob, but may be:)

Mark, all turbos that I have seen are like that, I believe it may be part of the balancing process. Quite often see little cut out bits on the back of the compressor wheels too, dont know about turbine wheel as I have never seen one close enough:)

Hi all, Just wondering if anybody has put an adjustable exhaust cam gear on AFTER having had a HKS 264/9.0 exh cam gear fitted? The main thing I was interested in knowing is if there was a noticeable difference after putting the cam gear on. I have heard that some manufacturers dial in the cams during the manufacture, negating any benefit that would be associated with an adjustable cam gear If this is so, it looks like I will have a HKS adj cam gear for sale Any help much appreciated Cheers Steve

Thanks Evan, I will look it:)

Have you upgraded your fuel pump?

Ordered a trust plenum about 2weeks ago - I tried a locally made one, but had problems so decided to go the tried and proven path. How much do you expect the plenums to cost? It seems that shipping is the big killer from the US to Aus, I am having a HKS GT30 turbine housing sent over and it is costing USD75 for postage.

If you need a HKS gasket, I think Merli had one he was selling for a very reasonable price, around $500, think it was a 1.6mm which will drop CR to 8.6:1. The japanese have been running 300+rwkw with these gaskets no probs, so I think they are good insurance if you are thinking of heading up around that hp. An 8.6:1 CR will definately be more boost friendly than the stock 9:1 - never hurts to have a bit of insurance, probably why the GTR runs 8.5:1 CR.

Nice to see its coming together, not alot of clearance under the bonnet now eh? Hope it all goes well

Sounds like it may be a vacuum leak. The ecu is measuring the air that comes through the AFM, but too much air gets in, so the ecu compensates by adding more fuel as it tries to maintain idle, then it over fuels, cuts the fuel - viscious cycle. If it is vacuum, you will notice it alot more when hot than when cold too. My guess anyways:) have you checked all your vacuum lines?

Thats another thing thats nice about qld, you get a mod plate:D

Yes I have researched it with Transport SA and a couple of different engineers here. I totally agree with you, it is bloody rediculous price. To give you an idea I was told it would cost $220 for an initial consult, $350 for a list of modified ADRs to be drawn up around $500 for chassis rigitiy testing, then there was brake testing, noise testing, all this had to be done on a track that has to be hired out specifically for that purpose - it just went on - bloody rediculous. It does cost $3500 for emissions testing in SA (must be an IM 240 test whatever the hell that is), mitsubishi is the only place that can do one (here) - and they dont even tell you where the car is failing just give a pass or fail. There is a case of a guy here who took a car back 3 times to get a pass - I think it is absolutely appalling. They want people to be responsible when modifying a car, but make it so bloody expensive most people wont do it. If you live in NSW though, the govt provides them for free. I suppose its a good revenue spinner, as people here usually just stock their car out to get it over, then refit the mods. I am a little past that being a cheap exercise though unfortuneatly or I wouldnt be bothering. With all the costs involved, I figure that I can have a nice holiday interstate, get my mods engineered, and still be in front:) So who did your mods for you slip? Would you suggest anyone? Cheers

e-mail sent

Hi guys, Just thought I would throw in my 2c if that's ok:) turbo cars are fitted with bovs that plumb back - this is something the manufacturer does, and for good reason (another story) atmo BOV vent crank case gasses to the atmosphere - this is in direct contradtion of road traffic acts australia wide, and it also contravenes EPA reguations. It took me a while to work out why atmo BOVs are illegal, until I was reading ADRs with regard to crank case gasses. All vehicles manufactured after 197? (from memory) must burn crank case gasses through the cylinders as part of emissions control - this is where the problem lies, as under boost crank case gasses go into the intake after the afm and before the turbo (which is why we fit catch cans). Once we take out foot off the accelerator, those gasses vent to atmo. Hope that clarifies. As for noise, the only regulations I could find were on vehicle exhaust noise, as for removing a 'turbo whistle' OMFG how can you remove something that doesnt exist - should take him to court purely on the principle - like to see the copper produce a dictionary (or any other legitimate) definition of a 'turbo whistle'. If a defect notice is a legal document, shouldnt the issuing copper be under some sort of requirement to get his terminology right? Should get a statement off a mechanic to the effect that there is no such thing as a turbo whistle, then go see the guys supervisor and make a complaint that you wasted time trying to remove something that doesnt exist:)

Aint that the truth, cheers:)

Hi, this is a copy of a thread I posted up on the NSW forum, on suggestion of one of their members. I was just wondering if anyone here could recommend an IE engineer for getting mods certified. If anybody has done this or knows an engineer firm that can do it and would recommend them, please let me know. If anybody has had bad experiences, please PM but dont post here I am planning on getting my car engineered, but in SA it is probably going to cost over 2K just for the cert, and another 3.5K for the emissions test - so it just isnt going to happen in SA. I have a mild tune, turbo (highmount GT30 so it cant be hidden), injectors, cams (waiting to be fitted), z32afm, clutch, sus - the usual stuff. Any help or ideas would be hugely appreciated Cheers Steve PS, if anybody could give me an idea of ball park figures for costs too, that would be great:)

Purely for peice of mind, and the fact that I was hoping I might be able to save myself many thousands of dollars (free emissions tests in NSW:)) In SA an aftermarket turbo is not allowed without an engineers cert and full emissions testing. The emissions tests are conducted by mitsubishi in SA, but all they give you is a pass/fail and dont tell you what the car is failing on and at 3.5k a pop - I think they can shove that where the sun doesnt shine. Might have to post up on the queensland forum too:D

Thanks two40. I have checked with Tpt SA, they will take a cert off any 'Chartered Professional Engineer', so must be a member of IE. I just had a look on the RTA site, Phil Scott unfortuneatly is SAE- A not IE, but thanks alot anyways:)

Hi, I was just wondering if anyone here could recommend an IE engineer for getting mods certified. If anybody has done this or knows an engineer firm that can do it and would recommend them, please let me know. If anybody has had bad experiences, please PM but dont post here:) I am planning on getting my car engineered, but in SA it is probably going to cost over 2K just for the cert, and another 3.5K for the emissions test - so it just isnt going to happen in SA. I have a mild tune, turbo (highmount GT30 so it cant be hidden:)), injectors, cams (waiting to be fitted), z32afm, clutch, sus - the usual stuff. Any help or ideas would be hugely appreciated Cheers Steve

Roy, where abouts did you get the braided line for $30/meter. Pretty good price. Also, where did you get the earls remote filter and adaptor.

Another option, if you want the engine complete is to contact RIPS, they are from NZ and do fully built engines with RB26 head manifolds etc ready to drop in. And they will ship, he quoted me about $350NZdollars to ship to aust. If you have a look on www.skylinesdownunder.co.nz on the forums under 'for sale business' , there is contact details etc.

Autobarn at Mile End SA sell one with a cooler like the jap ones, with all connectors and a thermostat its around $850.

Paul, shall do, big cooler means extra oil volume too, cant hurt. Brendan, definately will be fitting thermostat and remote filter, just need to fine some:) I am looking for a remote filter with thermostat, rather than inline sererate thermostat, but it is proving rather illusive. got quoted $20 per foot for braided 1/2" line from OG speed shop - going to have a look tomorrow.

Infront of the right hand wheel, my front bar has a nice big nostril type thing there - the other side is my cold air duct. Might get one of those little thermo fans for it too, only cost a few bucks second hand:)

Just bought one:) told me dimensions are 300 x 250 so not as huge as they look in the photos, besides a bit of extra oil never hurt anyone. they use 3/4" banjo fittings (supplied) and the coolers are made by Serck;) the guy told me that they are the same one Nismo use for their N1 models

Got the same rear bar now:) but gts veilside skirts and moddified trust front bar.