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Steve

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Everything posted by Steve

  1. Another thing to think about, I have it on very good authority (ie someone who works in the refining process) that the only company that actually cracks its fuel at 98ron, ie doenst use additives to increase it octane rating is BP. This means that if you buy a 98 ron from any other company, the fuel may be below 98 by the time it reaches your engine, esp if it has been a while since they refilled at the station, or your car has been sitting for a while. In WA this isnt an issue, as the only 98 ron available is from BP, but be careful if you are in another state.
  2. Air temp correction helps, and it is a good thing, I wish Power FC had it for GTS but it is not fool proof, and is only as good as the tuner - what happens when not enough retardation is allowed for the 40deg summer day, or when you have been sitting in a traffic jam???? Bad batch of fuel is definately not the only thing that will cause knock - going up a hill and using a bit (not alot) of accellerator on in too high a gear, plugs fouling, fuel surge.... the list goes on, even more probs if you are tuning from MAP rather than MAF but that is a different story. I am not saying that you cant get a decent tune without causing knock, or that if you dont have one you will destroy your ringlands, all I am saying is that if you spend 2K on a decent ecu fitted and tuned, why not spend a few hundred and get a decent knock warning? Makes alot of sense if you dont have one with the ecu, especially when you consider that the manufacturer thought it important enough to have knock detection and automatic retardation of the ignition in the stock, unmodified car IMHO At the end of the day, I have knock warning, I am happy:)
  3. RBs wont spin in second? what is the point of posting shit like that?
  4. Power fc on gts doesnt have air temp - which would be very, very handy as pointed out. having a knock sensor IMHO is absolutely vital in aftermarket management - unless you have the car up on a dyno regularly. One bad batch of fuel and its time to rebuild, fouled plugs from too much stop start traffic - same story. You can acutally buy an aftermarket knock sensor - all it gives you is an amplitued reading from a particular frequency. No, a knock sensor is not perfect, but on a gts, it will pick up knock before your ears can hear it. How to scale? Buggered if I know, but I work on when the light flashes, I back off immediatley and my engine hasnt done any ringlands yet so I am happy. What I can tell you though, is that if you drive around and you have a knock reading of around 30-40 on occasion, it doesnt hurt, normally mine sits around 5-15, with an occasional excursion to around 20-25. The excursion normally only happens when the car comes on load off the line, not when giving it heaps. I have used it, and I find it is a great comfort. And you can get knock detectors designed to give you a visual warning that is scaled with the amount of knock detected - would well be worth having, just ask anyone who has lost their ringlands to a bad batch of fuel etc.
  5. Danh, your going to be working at Mitsi! Awesome, that means special deals on the emissions testing for SAU?????:D:D
  6. I agree hippy, probably a dry contact. Often I have found that plugs are the main culprit - over years of vibration and heat cycles they can play up. I hope it is that anyway, cos I rember the dramas enrico went through when he was having the same problems.
  7. I am not sure about more heat wrapping, I only had the dump done and it seemed fine, didnt melt any wires or anything. If you are worried just keep an eye on it, if anything looks like it is starting to show signs of heat fatigue, wrap it/shield it. A bleeder shouldnt cost too much, and it will definately help, just dont wind in too much with the stock cooler or you will be needing a new turbo.
  8. Bloody hell, they get all the good stuff overseas before we see it here - only problems I can see is that its so slow someone else could steal the park before your car starts moving, and we dont have any checkered roads here! Ah well, one day.
  9. Another thougth, this may be overkill, but may save you a few dollars, some car manufacturers have use air pumps to inject air into the cat, thus reducing the percentage of specific gasses - this may help in your case. Even nissan did it with the SR20. You can buy cats (holden I think) that have a port in them already ready for the injection of air, add air pump and bingo, lower emissions. I know this is starting to get off subject a bit, I just would really hate to see you go through this absolute Bullsh1t to satisfy the men with small minds and even smaller appendages - only to get screwed.
  10. Danh, I spoke to Mark Tilbrook about this not too long ago. His comments were relating to a car with a supercharger on it. The testing was done at various rpms, and only a pass/fail result is given - that's all. They dont even tell you which rev range it failed at, or what particularly (ie how far out) failed, so if you fail you have done your 3.5K. Wouldnt it be worth taking to NSW for testing first? Regency only require an IMO 240 (from memory) test, I am not 100% sure that the RTA test is the same, but I was told by an engineer that the NSW test was acceptable - and its free. Best part is they will tell you where and why you failed. If worse comes to worse, at least it is cheaper to get the emissions right in NSW and then take it over to mitsubishi. There is also a guy who does a 'california bag test' or some such, I dont think regency will accept it, but it costs $350, and will also give you a good idea (within around 5% was quoted to me) of how close you are before you make your donation to the mitsubishi corporation. Just some thoughts, oh and Mark told me they had to take the car back 3 times to get it passed. I will pm you with additional info.
  11. PS sorry about the late reply - I did some work today;)
  12. Sorry, no way you can fit the heat shield, thats why the dump was wrapped, to keep the heat down. If you are only getting 6-7psi, I would expect that you must have a pretty restrictive exhaust - sorry to say. I had 9psi with cat and cat back, about 10 when the dump went on. The main difference I found with the dump though was not increase in boost, but a really early spool up. I started making boost around 2200-2300 and the mid range felt a bit crisper when at part throttle. I have the partition here, pick it up anytime. It may not fit perfect, but it would make a pretty good template so you could customise one for your car - easy to make AND CHEAP lol Good to hear the tiens arent kidney jarring - sounds like the same one's Enrico has.
  13. I am pretty sure that the plug and play version 4 ecus for skyline do have 6 injector and ingnition drivers. If it batch fired, how would Paul be running rotational idle? The website, last time I checked it, was way out of date and didnt reflect this
  14. Thanks for posting up the results B-man. Just for those reading, and to add a bit of interest, the plenum in question actually has the stock plenum's bottom on it, with radiused openings where it alignes with the runners. I think in this case, as long as all consequent testing of a totally stock plenum and trust plenum were conducted in the same manner, it would provide a basis for comparison. Once again B-man, thanks for sharing the info:)
  15. Nice sinisteR32, I am glad your not a mod.
  16. Jimbo2000, I believe driveline loss for the R33GTSt is pretty close to 60-65kw, so if you have a rwkw figure just add 60 and it will be bloody close to at the engine. So if you have 205rwkw, around the 265 - 270 mark at the engine.
  17. kw to kw???? I dont understand a kw is a kw whether its at your rear wheels, front wheels or engine??? If you have a look at www.onlineconversion.com it has a few different conversion calculators, but I really dont understand what it is you are asking?
  18. 7x100mmHg = approx 13.5PSI http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm
  19. Jtech, just pop the clutch at 50kmh, making sure you flatten it at the same time - guaranteed to please.
  20. Well, if it all happens at 2500rpm, I am tending to agree with JimX's first impression - AFM. Generally the cut is at 2500rpm from limp home mode. Check for loose wires and try giving the AFM a clean, but first, have you tried doing an ECU diagnostics? Like all things car though, you can never be 100% certain what it is until you have tried eliminating the possibilities:)
  21. The 446 was purely to win the dyno comp AFAIK, I was only using it as an example as if they made that sort of power on a dyno (not daily driver) it sort of says that a pull of just over 400hp shouldnt be a problem. Also (heresay) but I have been told numerous stories of guys running in excess of 300rwkw with stock rb25 bottom ends - reliably, mainly from Japan (I know, different fuel, etc) And as Joel says, they were running mid 300 on the drift day, and as you saw Paul, it went around the track on the rev limiter (several times) and still managed to drive off under its own steam. Just using example of bottom end strength to put GTSt's mind at ease:D
  22. Paul, I think the only area you may have dramas is with your injectors running dry, as you are already at 90% - boost isnt too high, and the bottom end should be fine for acouple more pulls - easily. Remeber JMS red R33 put down 446odd rwkw with stock bottom end - you are *only* running 411rwhp:D Anyways, good luck hope all goes well and those injectors dont decided to call it a day.
  23. INASNT, check out this link: http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html
  24. I did say to use thinners:p so where are the pics?
  25. You need rails for all seats, second hand often have them already
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