Steve

Sounds good Paul, I will have a look if the suzuki one falls through, cheers mate. Ronin 09, I have called the local suzuki dealer, they dont have the part number come up on their computer?

I am sure someone around here has a nice T04R HKS turbs sitting around looking for a new home add 25lbs of boost = mayhem.

Then up the amperage and you'll never need a girlfriend again:)

I see what you are saying JimX, I think I will have to get back to back dyno runs done now, just to compare:) I have a couple of dynos done about 2 weeks apart, 3rd and 4th gear - the difference under peak power is huge, about 26rwkw at 100kph (3rd gear up on 4th), narrowing to around 6-8kw at peak - still down on the 4th gear run, but as they were done so far apart and on different dynos (dyno dynamics in shootout mode) it is far from conclusive. But the curve from the 3rd gear run looks alot fatter. Will be getting tune done in about 2 weeks, so hopefully remeber to ask for a 3rd and 4th gear pull to see what the difference is.

You can put me down as a starter, nice leasurely drive in the country and a light refreshing ale with lunch:)

Hi Matt, no signs of detonation???? FARK, now I am paranoid again. I have just seen my pistons and they are all in perfect condition with 'no signs of detonation'. I thought it was the knock sensor keeping me in line. Mind you it can still detect knock way before my ears can - which probably has something to do with the screamer and me being part deaf (getting old you know). Those pistons do look nice and shiney Matt, seems a shame to put them inside an engine. I suppose you will always have your souvenir smashed ring land piston that you could polish up and use as a centre piece, if you have any spares, I need an new ashtray:) With an 8:1, you should be giving 30psi a nudge, just for shits and giggles;) Go on, you know you want to, dont be weak:D

True, but apart from having to rewire it, it might get a bit messy when you have to fill it:D esp as I usually use the garden hose. If this suzuki one doesnt work (but sounds like it will) I think I will be going down the boot path.

Interesting quesion there. I was just asking a guy I know which turbo he was planning for his S14. His last car had a HKS2530 (rb20det) and it put down 230rwkw at 1.2bar, boost hit hard and had a wide power band. He abuses his cars for drift, and is one of austalias better known drifters (well, very well know in SA and arguably one of the best drifters in Aus). After his last trip to japan, and going for a thrash in a couple of cars there (he is pretty good mates with one of the big guys at signal in Osaka where he lived for a few years) - he has decided to go with a Trust T518Z this time around, as he believes they are a better turbo than the HKS, in his words 'they are killer', I actually asked him how they compared for lag to the 2530 and he said they (T518Z) have less. sorry its a bit of a ramble, but as I havent driven a car with a T518Z in it, or been taken for a thrash, I am passing on what I have been told, so I thought I would qualify it a bit better. If you want to speak to the guy yourself, his name is James and he runs D1 Garage (www.d1garage.com), he could probably do you a good deal on the turbo too;)

Also, just wondering why you would put a turbo on that you thought wouldnt make boost until 6000 rpm? If you want to bring it on boost earlier, try fitting a split pulse manifold, as the T88s were designed for them. There is an article in an old hpi mag about a top secret GTR with T88-34D, it made 'more than 1 bar' at around 4500rpm and 430odd rwkw at 1.9 bar boost.

I will try and attach a comparison chart, as for compressor maps, good luck as I havent seen alot from any performance japanese turbo companies. What garrett turbo did you have?

hooligan, my earlier response was poorly worded, the power fc will only control boost with the power fc EBC solenoid, or AVCR solenoid which is the same. You can run any type of boost control with the power fc.

Please yes, if you dont need it, please just pm me and I will send my details. Probably easiest for you if you just COD it down, or I can transfer the money to your bank account. Thanks heaps Ronin 09, I will do some investigating, as I imagine it will be a pretty long trip to fight over a washer bottle;)

HKS use garrett cores, the HKS 2530 is infact a HKS GT2530, and it should have a plate saying GT2530 on the core. But, it should also have HKS on the compressor cover and turbine cover, as they have them specially made to their specs, as are the compressor wheels. This is what you pay the extra for. The core though is identical.

Awesome stuff Shane, you dont want to sell it do you? A part number would be good too. thanks heaps Steve

Well imagine if you had 300nm of torque at 150kmh, if you had the same 300nm at 200kph, power would be lower. I am not sure exactly how much difference it makes, just does make some difference.

JimX, the gear will make a difference, as hp is a function of torque over revs, therefor you will have more torque at lower gears due to the advantage of a higher than 1:1 ratio at the gear box.

oops, sorry, you can get there from that page, but its not totally obvious:) try this one: http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp

I can think of many good reasons, most of them dollars. so how much do you thing TRY09 cost? Farken heaps. And I dont think its that cheap on a VL either, still 10s of thousands. then when the dust has settled, you dont have a very streetable car - or at least what I would call streetable. If you go twin turbo on a GTST, you have added expense of paying for two of everything, it all adds up. Much cheaper to go a big single, doesnt have to be a lag monster to give you enough power to get into the 11s, and an low 12 or high 11 sec car is very quick for the street. Still going to cost 10s of thousands, either starting with a GTR or with GTS.

I am pretty sure it saves too. I have had the battery disconnected for a week while my car was having a manifold fitted, also while the car was in a paint shop for 2 weeks and the settings remained. To reset, you need to go to the etc menu, there is a reset ecu function, just go into it, select next, then turn the ign off and on again and you are back to base map. if you have a look a the apexi-usa site (http://www.apexi-usa.com/electronics.asp) they have a downloadable pdf of the manual for the hand controller. It is for the RX-7 but most functions are the same for R33

I dont think either series 1 or 2 have electronic boost control. What sort of boost are you getting? The factory boost controller doesnt go alot further, with 5psi to 5000rpm and 7psi to redline, or with a cat back 7 and 9 psi.

Hi Ronin, Sorry I dont know what the part is, my car is a series 1

Power FC only works with the power fc boost control, basically it is the same solenoid as the AVCR. You can fit any other type of boost control you like, but the power fc wont drive it, ie be able to change boost settings.

Steven, if you wanted to cool your car quicker, you would be better looking at an upgraded radiator and an oil cooler.

Thanks warrick, I will have to look into that one. B-man, perhaps you could just swap me for the stock washer bottle, much cheaper on postage that way:p

MRK25T, you may not need to change the fuel pressure (but sounds like you will). When you change the setting to VG30, the power fc automatically seems to add abit of fuel (well mine definately did anyways) - probably a safety thing until you get it tuned. My injector duty dropped by 10% (at peak) when I got it tuned. I doubt it will be anything to worry about, and will be sorted when the car goes back on the dyno. It will become more apparent what you need to do then. Until that time, Iwould suggest low boost:) Guys on this forum have made up to 300rwkw with stock injectors and a RR fuel reg, although its not ideal, it shows how far people can stretch injectors.