Steve

What they forgot to mention is that it involves the use of some bolt cutters:D

Definately sticking with the 0.61, will see how it goes with more boost, but so far it still pulls harder than a 2 bob whore to redline with 1.2bar. I may just experiment with a larger housing to see how it goes though - just gotta find a donor:D The power curve moving like that is the boost controller learning. When the ecu was reset, the boost had to be reset, so the duty cycle needed to be guesstamated, then adjusted appropriately. All is good now, boost holds perfectly. Bugger all lag, and the turbo hasnt even got close to showing its colours yet, that is going to happen when the head gasket goes on - soon I hope:D

Hmm, I think maybe you underestimate the usefulness. I have grone accustomed to its presence, and it so much as blinks once and I am off the gas - works really well, my paranoia helps. It actually activates quite low on the scale to give you plenty of warning, well before its enough to cause problems.

Dean that clutch slip is probably the wheels not getting traction.

Thanks guys. INASNT, on the dyno it was hitting one bar around 3000rpm, perhaps a little later on the road. Its a bit hard to tell cos I am spending more time trying to keep the back end under control than watching boost and revs:) thats even in fourth gear. RS500, the run was in 4th.

thats only .8 bar. So its pretty damn good. The turbo hasnt hit its efficiency range yet which is about 1.5 bar. The big thing with HKS turbos is they come on boost hard, I get boost coming on at just over 2K with a 3037, hits really hard at about 2500 - 2700 (hard to tell exactly:)) but goes from about 4 pounds boost to 14.5 in only 3-400 rpm - its nuts. With 1.2bar on that turbo (you got 8.5:1 CR so pretty boost friendly) you will be looking at 230rwkw easy.

I wouldnt have a clue, but they look phat:p

You should have an adapter that goes onto the stock oil filter mount. Two lines come off it. If you have a remote oil filter, one line goes to it ( the short one), the longest goes to the cooler, and an inbetween goes from filter to the cooler. If you dont have the remote oil filter, just adapter plate and two lines to the cooler.

Just edit the first post, and select delete. that easy

bbenny, thanks (I think;)) I probably need the extra power cos of the weight difference:p Martin does get up that way from time to time, perhaps you should see if you can get a couple of guys together and do a group booking for tunes:D Either that or come for a drive. Didnt Dr Drift offer to head up that way?

A photo of the scratch.

I have a turbosmart type 2 BOV for sale. Comes with adaptor to suit R33 and I also have the plug for the return pipe as it is an atmo vent type. It has a red top on it instead of blue, most type 2s have blue. There is a small scratch on one side of the annodised top. I am in adelaide, and would prefer an adeliade buyer. I am selling as I have changed to Trust Type R BOV. $200 firm

Saw a series 1 with GTR projector type headlights. Looked sweet, but I spose they would cost 5 times that of a series 2.

I have seen them for RB26, cant remeber what brand, but they have them on the greenline website. I would love to know if they are the same for RB25.

Cant say exactly what he would charge for the tune, a guy owed me a favour, and hooked it up. Maybe drop him a pm? Rob, buy a head gasket, merli is selling a brand new HKS 1.6mm for $470 and give it heaps, you know you want to:D

turbo (0.61 turbine AR), tuned lenght manifold, HKS 40mm wastegate, 3" system, pod in box(sealed during the run) with a 4" cold air feed, hybrid cooler (600x300x76), hills plenum (but I will be changing it), power fc with boost control, 550cc injectors, bosch 044 fuel pump and a twin plate clutch. Also using a trust type R bov plumbed back.

Just realised I saw 9krpm at Morpowa when my car was up - thats one sweet ride you got there!

TIMMMAYYY, its not what you got its how you use it;)

Cheers, yeah I am pretty happy, Rob, getting a tuned ecu will make a huge difference. I would be expecting you will be getting well into the high 200s.

Matt, I got knock sensor;)D) thanks 9krpm, 200 isnt too shabby at all, lots of fun.

And I forgot to mention. This is a really good example of why a good dyno operator is worth paying a bit extra for. 4 hours vs 1, and a better outcome:D thanks again Martin.

time to update your profile:p congrats again on a really good result.

It was an interesting day yesterday. I was still having a few probs with my initial tune of the new turbo, mainly at idle and light load. I took my car to Martin Donnon to see if he could help (stupid quesiton). After taking a look he told me there was nothing for it but a full retune. I cringed as I had just payed $585 dollars for 4 hours of dyno work and a new set of plugs. Less than an hour later, the car was running sweet and I had an extra 26rwkw. The dyno was run in shootout mode, but the correction for the day was only 1.029, so not alot of difference there. Boost still hits hard as hell, goes from normal to nuts in about 300rpm, then just pulls all the way redline. Attached is the new dyno sheet, with before and after runs boost set at 1 bar.

Had the pleasure of a close inspection of a new commodore today. What an absolute POS. Bumper was loose and rattled trim around the seat rails was loose and wouldnt go back on factory floor mats were too soft and wouldnt stay in place, plus the trim was loose plastic fittings in the centre consol didnt fit properly and were loose. THE CAR HAD JUST UNDER 5500 KM ON THE CLOCK. Seen better quality in a LADA NIVA

Partition is a divider in the engine bay that prevents hot air from the engine bay getting sucked in by the pod.