sonicii

^^ they might fit.. but you can be sure the markup the Australian dealers will put on them will be far more than the shipping costs from USA.

Take it for a drive and check shift quality, you will feel it shift, but it should shift fairly smoothly, RPM should not 'flare' between shifts, but it also shouldn't 'thump' into the next gear. Once everything is warmed up, give it full throttle from a standing start, make sure RPM rises with speed, and 1-2 shift is reasonably firm. (if you can find a suitable place where you aren't breaking any laws!!) Pull the transmission dip stick, check the fluid, it should be a bright red transparent colour**, it should not be brown, and it should not smell burnt. If you aren't sure what it should look/smell like, you can compare it to the power steering fluid. ** can someone else confirm the Nissan J Matic fluid is red? some specialised fluids are a different colour.. I think CVT fluid is more of a yellowish colour (at least the Maxima CVT fluid is).

RE4/RE5 doesn't really define the gearbox type, it really just states that it is an electronic controlled 4 or 5 speed auto box. there were many transmissions that started with RE4, some were good, some weren't, all having signifincant differences. eg. the RE4F02A has the valve body on the top and wasn't known for reliability. the RE4F04A has the valve body on the bottom and was much stronger. the RE4/5 in the V35 is quite different again.. considering it is a RE5R.. (RWD box). That said, the unit fitted to the V35 seems to be quite good..

Oil is thicker when the engine is cold.. but I would expect the noise to be there all the time if it is a timing chain issue.

It's a bit strange that it only occurs when you start to accelerate, and not when idle. Makes me think 'exhaust manifold leak'.. That would also explain it only occuring when hot after everything expands. But the exhaust is on the opposite side of the heads to the intake...

The TT version is about the same price as a GT-R, so I can't imagine sales will be that great. Will need to be more than a different badge to get it past SEVS. Eg. Fairlady- 300zx, cefiro-maxima. When one was for sale here, you couldn't import the other..

Yes, and busses and ferries and 7-11s and vending machines, etc.

There will be next year.. but the infiniti will still be called the G37 if it has a 3.7L engine.

I think he was just trying to say the V35 skyline was made first, for the JDM market, then they decided to release it in USA as an infiniti G35 about 2 years later. I think the V series are are reasonable replacement for the non GT-R skylines and don't deserve the flack the R owners give it.. however, Nissan was faced with an issue with they released the R35.. it was far too different to the V series to give it a skyline name.. but really is a suitable successor for the older GT-R skylines.

^^ pretty much.. yes. obviously with minor differences to suit the country they are going to.. eg. Navi, and other local design rules. Is the Australian G37 going to be a V36? seems a bit strange, since they are supposed to be releasing the V37 next year.. you would think they would just wait and release it here too.. I thought that was why they are delaying the release of the G37 here?

I did hear at one stage that it was a Carlos Ghosn idea, the Nissan designers weren't going to give it the Skyline label originally. Maybe that is what has upset the R series guys? However, i can understand why people would get upset with a Skyline Crossover..

^^ agreed.. after all, what makes it not a 'real' skyline? it doesn't have an RB, but neither did the pre R series skylines. No turbo.. but a stock 350GT produces more power/torque than any stock non GT-R R series (although the R34 25GTT comes close depending on who's specs you read). Sure, we can't import the AWD version, but they do exist.. All I can think is the styling makes them less agressive looking.. but the early prince skylines weren't exactly 'agressive' looking, and no-one dares question their authenticity..

In USA I can kind of understand.. the Skyline has been a 'desirable' car which was unavailable as LHD (at least in GT-R form), in the R series. So it could be seen as 'cool' . In Aust.. no-one knows of infiniti, so it would just be a personal taste thing, and not really a 'cool' thing. Never can understand the Holdens with the Chev badges.. like anyone would want people to think they have an american car...??

No 6MT option I see.. typical

This should be ringing huge alarm bells.. - It is not a 2006.. could be a early 2004 at best.. possibly older.. - Sold on ebay just weeks ago!! - which is weird, because the carsales ad says the ad was last modified in June!! - Selling for a very very cheap price. - If the VIN really is for a sedan, I would definatly be walking away, and alerting authorities. (although the VIN listed in the ebay ad is a 'CPV35' which is a coupe VIN, the sedan VIN will be a ...PV35...) it has Series 1 tails, AC controls, speedo cluster - Series 1 ended in late 2004.

I would say this probably isn't the reason, the revs only peak to 2000rpm for a second then drop back to about 1500rpm, which is where most cars idle when cold. If the intention was to heat the cats and O2 sensors, it would need to stay at high rpm for much longer.

have you done the idle air volume learn procedure? After cleaning my throttle body, it wouldn't idle much below 900 until I ran this process. I guess the VQ35 in the Stagea is probably setup the same. The VQ35 in the Murano and Maxima don't rev anywhere near as high at cold startup.. not sure why our cars need to?? I know they are tuned differently, but I am not sure why that would make a difference.

Sucks we don't get the revup engine here.

not sure why it does it.. the VQ35 in other cars doesn't rev that high.. but it does seem normal for the V35.

Same as Sean, sometimes peaks at over 2000rpm on cold mornings, but only for a second, then quickly drops back to about 1500rpm, then drops slowly until the engine is warm, then sits on 600.

Lol Jetwreck.. based on your reply, I guess you quoted but didn't read what I said... - one again for good luck - 'I never claimed they don't do anything or are a bad idea'. - just skeptical based on experience. Scott - thanks for the reply.. good to see someone else has actually questioned the concept.. sometimes I think these items are like a religion.. 'thou shall not question'. I have been burned by 'everyone raving about the results' before, so I am just after something more.. unless I happen to have the spare cash that I am willing to risk.. which I don't at this stage. but if I ever do, and get the same results as everyone is claiming, i will be more than happy to tell everyone..

^^ if you wanted it bright all the time, replacing the light sensor with a suitable value resistor will probably do the trick.

Jetwreck, thanks for the partially sensible/reasonable reply, I was starting to think all I would get for disagreeing is flames.. Firstly, I never claimed this would make no difference or is a bad idea.. just that I am highly skeptical about simple braces making much difference. To your question, if the S2 V35s have the extra bracing, and it makes so much difference, why don't we ever hear people claiming how much better a stock S2 V35 handles compared to a stock S1 V35? In regard to the J30, yes it was a luxury designed vehicle, and will never handle like a 350Z, but there were many, many posts, on Australian forums and US forums, singing the praises of the FSTB and front lower tie bar, lots of 'huge difference', 'best bang for buck mod', 'car handles so much better', 'corners much faster' claims (it's amazing how much the placebo effect works), I already had stiffer springs, and stronger whiteline sway bars, and figured the chassis wouldn't be designed to handle the extra stress, and would flex more than a chassis of a 'performance' car, which would be stiffer in stock form. So it makes sense that bracing would be more noticeable in this situation. I ordered both the FSTB and Lower tie bar, and they had no noticeable difference to vehicle dynamics. After stating this on the forums, i got 1 of 2 types of replies. firstly, flamed for 'not knowing a thing about cars', or 'would know handling if I fell over it'. (similar to what I see here) or secondly, lots of backpedaling like 'you will only notice it if you have other suspension mods (which I did have), and 'you will only notice it on track/circuit events, and not with normal street driving'. Feel free to correct me here, but I figure the only thing bracing can do for handling is reduce wheel camber and caster changes on rough roads or heavy cornering, there is no way it can reduce body roll, or make the car itself sit flatter in the corners. If the stock chassis is flexing so much to cause noticeable instability under normal street cornering and rough roads, when you already have uneven surfaces, stones, line marking, etc. Then I would expect to find cracks in the chassis after a couple of years. As I said.. I am not saying these don't do anything, and I am more than happy and willing to be proven wrong. I am just outlining the reasons for my skepticism.. and a link to a page with a few 'stress measurement' graphs with no axis labels and no notes to show how the figures were obtained, doesn't mean much. Given my previous experience, a few people saying 'huge difference', 'corners much flatter' doesn't hold much weight either. If I had a spare $200 or so that I didn't know what to do with, I may have even just given it a try for the sake of curiosity. Perhaps if someone was to do a few 'blind' back to back tests and was able to determine 100% of the time if the bar was fitted or not, it would be a credible result. - ok, bring on the flames!

Australian Nissan mechanics don't get trained on imports. Some dealers are ok, some outright refuse to work on them. Do a search on this forum for any suggestions. If you can't find anything, ask. A good independent mechanic is often better than dealer mechanics for most cars anyway.

^^ don't say that!! my NRMA policy is due for renewal in a couple of months time...