sonicii

For a normal road car, you will be fine with a decent qualtiy 'off the shelf' dot4 fluid. If you do any track work, or other driving which requires excessive repeated braking, then go with a higher spec fluid with a higher boiling point.

I find mine too sensitive for my liking too, but it only kicks in when I start to lose traction. For example, jump on the throttle a bit too hard in a corner, as soon as there is the slightest loss of traction on the inside rear wheel, TC kicks in an cuts power.. From the above description, I assume you are talking about VDC, not TC? TC only reduces engine power when it detects wheelspin. The VDC system works on the wheel speed sensors, G and Yaw sensors (essentially the same thing). and steering wheel angle sensor. When you turn into a corner, it determines lateral Gs you should be pulling based on the steering wheel angle sensor, if they don't line up, it intervenes. It cannot detect bad suspension components directly, but if those components cause wheel slip, or change in steering geometry, it can trigger the VDC. Nissan recommend a steering angle adjustment is done when you have a wheel alignment done, to teach the VDC system the correct 'neutral' steering wheel position. I believe this can only be done using consult (although the nissan datascan author is working on an upgrade to his software). No idea why yours changed with the mods you did. If the grounding kit fixed it, I would be searching for the bad factory ground point..

I think you will run into problems with the rear sections. The headers, y-pipe, mid pipe from a coupe will fit a sedan, but mid pipe back is quite different.

Coupe or Sedan? I think the V35 Sedan finished in 2006. the coupe might have gone through to early 2007.. not sure though. If you don't have any luck finding something here, your best option would be to sign up with an importer and they will keep an eye on auctions in Japan and let you know when something comes up. But it there could be a bit of a wait if you are quite particular with what you want.

Nissan would expect you to buy an entire new tail light. LEDs generally have a very long lifespan, so perhaps check for cracked solder joints or a damaged board. I have seen videos of people dismantling the tail light - so it is possible. If you need to replace the LED, I would suggest you replace all of them, as you are likely to end up with a different brightness, or slightly different colour if you just replace one. and that is likely to irritate you just as much as having one LED not working.

$15K. lol. An import.. and 7 years old.. you would be lucky to get $10K as a trade (if they would even offer a trade).. then they would just onsell it to an independant used car yard.

There is no M series Coupe.. the G coupe should be a little cheaper as it is a lower spec vehicle (like a BMW 5 vs 3). you can check the prices for the range of M and FX models here. http://www.infiniticars.com.au

So it is mysteriously turning itself on? sounds like it might be a faulty control panel.

Yeah, need more info.. does the display show it is turning off/on, does the interior fan turn off/on, or just the AC compressor? If it is just the compressor, it could be low on gas, or have a blocked/clogged up condensor which can trigger the high pressure switch.

i thought it was red, but some fluids are a different colour.. the NS-2 fluid for the maxima CVT is yellow/brownish colour out of the bottle.

If you can find someone who likes all the mods. That's the downside of mods, when it comes time to sell, it is unlikely you will find a buyer who likes exactly what you have done. You can spenk $3k on rims, but if the buyer doesn't like them, they won't pay more for the car than for one with stock rims.

I have a stock 2005 350gt 6MT that is my daily, and does around 200km of city driving a week. If that suits your test requirements, I am happy to test.

My V35 doesn't have it.. and I just double checked the J31, it doesn't have it. I don't think my old 1993 J30 Maxima had it either.. the R31 skyline I had before that did though.. It doesn't really serve much of a purpose.. other than to prevent you accidently dropping something down there.. but really, how long do you have the fuel cap off without a filler nozzle blocking the hole?

US$325 plus shipping from CZP.. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3413&Car_Type=G35&UID=20121004005316118.208.185.236

That other one for sale is a 5sp auto box..

mine doesn't either, nor does my J31 maxima. I haven't seen cars with that metal flap for a while now..

Highly doubt it has anything to do with a limp mode or bypassed EGR. Limp mode will normally lock in a particular gear (2nd or 3rd) to allow you to drive it home. If it isn't an external mechanical issue, I think it sounds like an internal transmission fault, as the electronics don't have the ability to select 'no gear' when the shifter is in D, it only switches between forward gears. As for what it could be is anyone's guess.. could be a clutch pack, valve body fault, line pressure solenoid. or a host of other possible causes.

I'm thinking this too.. or possibly even a shifter linkage issue?

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=trolling

^^ dude.. they are trolling.. stop feeding them!!!!

^^ 6MT envy!!

Depends on cost.. a rebuild normally includes all synchos and baulk rings, and all bearings. My limited experince with Nissan transmission parts suggests you might be looking at more than a new transmission for all these parts and labour to fit them. In the old days of holden 3sp manuals (with only 2 synchros), it was certainly worthwhile to do a full rebuild every time you cracked it open. I had issues with 2nd gear synchro in a R31 skyline years ago which also damaged 2nd gear, I just had this gear and and synchros replaced and I was looking at around $1500 in parts. Didn't have any other items changed/repalced and never had any further issues with the tranmsission. Certainly do a full rebuild if you can justify the cost of parts.. Also, transmission work can be labour intensive, so don't expect just 1-2 hours of labour even if you just replace the 5th gear synchro.

There isn't anything particularly special about these manual boxes, anyone with experience/knowledge of manual automotive transmissions should be able to fix it for you. As for parts, it is the same gearbox as the 350Z, so parts should be available from Nissan. If it is just 5th gear you are having issues with, you can probably just replace the 5th gear syncho cone and baulk ring, assuming you haven't damaged the edge of the gear. The question is, should you replace anything else while the box is apart? possibly input bearing?? maybe search for other common issues?

the Z-tube isn't really going to yelid you any extra KWs, so if you can find a tube of the same size/shape, it should give a similar 'sound'. However, the danger of using aluminium instead of plastic is it will tend to conduct more heat into the air inside.

Guys.. don't feed the trolls!! It just encourages them!