sonicii

Guys.. don't feed the trolls!! It just encourages them!

It's all good.. I got fried recently for sharing my opinion on suspension bracing, after finding it made no noticable difference on my old J30.. the J30 copped a bit of a verbal in the process!!..

Clutches are one of those items that can wear out in 10,000km or 200,000km depending on how you drive. Let me know how it looks when you pull it. I'm guessing it is the factory clutch?

what condition is the clutch in? (how much left on it?) Need some tyres too.. pitty the 18s are the wrong profile..

Sure.. and I think you make a good point in that if you are going FI, to do it properly. We don't want to see anyone buying a $5k turbo kit, fitting it, winding the boost up and ending up with a pile of molten metal.. Power can be addictive too.. some just want simple NA mods to make few extra KW.. then want more and go with cams and ECU tune.. and eventually realise they have to go FI to get any more.. and could have gone straight to a FI setup with less $$ in the first place. I guess that is what you are trying to warn against? Some are happy with just a bit more than stock, and will leave there.

And I guess that is the point.. most people aren't interesting in spending the market value of the car on 1 item, just to prepare for performance mods. If you have bottomless pockets and are prepared to spend more than the car is worth (money you will never see again), then you can do a nice reliable turbo/supercharger build that should't give you many headaches. In which case, it's worth considering selling the V35 and looking at something like a GT-R where the rest of the car has the pedigree to match. However, saving $500 or so to put toward a $20k+ quality FI build doesn't appear to be what the OP was looking to do, considering he said 'basic engine mods'.

^^ how did the horrid RE4F02A transmission hold up to boost? The VG30 was probably a bit easier to boost too.. with a 9:1 compression ratio.

^^ i kind of agree with nightcrawler on this too. NA mods are never going to get you spine-snapping acceleration, but as he has shown, with some good exhaust mods and some mild intake, there are some gains, 34rwkw is probably more than you would get on most NA cars with similar mods. and $3k isn't too bad. It really depends on what you want.. if you just want a bit more stick from your daily without sacrificing fuel economy and spending big $$, NA is probably the best way. if you want an outright performance machine, then definatly save your pennies and go FI.

As most have said, NA mods are going to be fairly minimal unless you want to spend some $$$. If you do a search, there is a post (might even be on G35driver.com) showing dyno tests of many different plenum spacers. So they do produce some real benefits, but they are probably too small to notice with a 'butt' dyno. Z-tube is more about the induction noise than any performance benefits. The basic 5/16 spacer is just a thermal spacer between the upper and lower plenum. The Thermo also includes a thermal spacer between the intake manifold and the lower plenum. - good for hot climates. The iso copper has the same as the thermo, plus a copper throttle body heater plate which helps prevent the throttle body icing up in cold climates.

$3,500 could have bought you a lot of V35 headlights!!

250GT? 300GT? 350GT?, 350GT 6MT? Not selling, but it might be worth knowing what you are looking for, in case someone is..

I would ignore 0-100 times.. they are far too arbitrary. Looks like the M37 engine spec is 235kw. 370GT, 370Z and G37 is 245kw. Probably a result of creating a quieter/luxurious version for the M sedan (quieter and therefore more restrictive exhaust).

Does the Series1 run A/F sensors for the 2 fronts or just standad O2 sensors? I had to replace an A/F sensor in my S2 a while back and bought it from ConceptZ. for much less than $400. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=7431&Car_Type=NIS350&UID=20120925144953101.163.4.28 The rears should be cheaper as they are just an standard narrow band O2 sensor, and are really just there to confirm the Cats are working, they aren't involved in tuning.

Your highbeam/fog lamp as they use a single normal H4 halogen lamp. You will need a H4 HID replacement to convert this to HID, similar to the H4-3 unit listed here - http://www.hid-lightsdownunder.com/service1.html If you have D2R lamps in your low beam, they are already HIDs. - the low beam is a totally separate lamp in a totally separate reflector. From what I understand H4-1 is a low beam only lamp (fog light only). H4-3 uses a single lamp with a retractable light shield. H4-4 uses a twin lamp.

Nice choice of rims.. certainly better than what it had on in Japan..

^^ ah.. yes I have a copy of the TSB, was just wondering if there was a recall as you mentioned.. There are probably hundreds of TSBs, but recalls are fairly rare, and usually only done for safety issues.

Cool.. thanks for the info, the description sounds like what you have described. Where did you get the info on the recall? there seems to be a metion of a TSB in the above links, but not a recall.

Haven't heard of the 'fuel damper' problem before.. Exhaust leaks tend to get louder when the engine is under load, like when accelerating.

There isn't really anything engine related 'above the dash'. Are you sure it isn't just something rattling?

^^ can't imagine why it would be..

If you have a 'crystal white' light on low beam, chances are the low beam HIDs were not removed at compliance. it is possible to get halogen lamps with a blue coating on the glass to make them look 'white' or even 'bluish'. The easiest way to tell is HIDs will be a little dull when you first turn them on, then brighten up after a few seconds.. Halogens come on at full brightness instantly. to replace the high beam/fog light properly, you would need a H4 Bixenon HID kit. Unless you want to ditch the fog lights and just have a high beam. Our cars do have canbus, but I can't see why there would be any difference with HID kits, as the BCM drives a relay, and the relay powers the headlights.

I think it looks better, and suits the rest of the car.. but that's just my opinion.. plenty will probably disagree with me.

They are probably ok.. sounds like they just has some issues separating the EGR valve from the intake plenum.

I know beauty is in the eye of the beholder.. but personally, I think that is ugly.. (the car, not the girls..) Don't want to detract from your dedication though.. i am sure there are many hours worth of work there!

Sorry.. I was just being condescending toward the mechanic. I thought he might be charging your for mythical engine items like some dodgy mechanics do.