MegaGTS4

If there is no spark: The System uses an LED crank angle sensor (CAS) within the distributor to generate a speed signal (360-degree for timing) and a position signal (120-degree signal) for the computer (ECU). The ECU then uses these 2 signals to generate a trigger to the power transistor (PT) bolted to the outside of the distributor. The PT uses this trigger to switch the -ve coil to ground to generate spark. 1 On top of the distributor is a 4 pin harness plug - this is the crank angle sensor. With this plug removed test the voltage on each pin of the female harness plug against ground (engine earth/battery -ve) with the ignition on (KOEO). 2 Should have 12v (battery volts from the EFI relay), earth (Ov), and on the remaining 2 pins - 5v on each (from ECU). 3 Ensure the distributor shaft is turning during cranking - cam belt. 4 With the engine cranking these 2 wires which had 5v on each are the important signals you are after - expect approx. 2.3v on one and 0.3v on the other. If the CAS has failed expect close to 5v OR close to 0.0v on one or both. If the signals are BOTH within 20% of specs., then 5 Check the signal from the ECU to the PT (fawn wire onto PT). If ECU is generating the correct signal expect approx. 0.4v. If a greater voltage, then you have an earth problem. If 0.0v then the ECU is not outputting the signal - ECU failed. If correct signal but still no spark then the PT has failed to switch the coil (rare) or the coil has failed (common). 6 To check the PT is switching the coil, use a normal test light from the +ve battery to the -ve coil (brown/red at PT). Your light should illuminate with KOF (ignition key off), and when the coil is switched to ground through the PT during cranking. If your test light flashes during cranking then PT is doing its job so coil has failed. If no flashing then PT has failed. Or if test light constantly lit, then PT has failed. Another common problem with the 3-litre Nissan engine is where the idle deteriorates to the point where it will not even run. Before that happens there is an initial loss of power, which just gets worse. A prime cause of this is the Air Mass Meter drifting beyond specifications - check the load pin (3rd in from back of engine - white wire) against an earth should have KOEO no less than 1.26v (excessive lean) and no more 1.32v (rich). If this load setting base is out, you won't be able to adjust the idle mixture (1st pin in from front of AMM) factory lean at 3.6v to richer say 2.0v to a satisfactory mixture - AMM will need replacing MEGA

The rattle could be the sensor as they tend to rattle if the ceramic inside it breaks, though it would be rough in any gear not just third as it would be closed loop all the time. Shudder's are usually clutch related.

There is a screw on the side of the ecu that also adjusts the idle aswell as turns on diagnostics, just turn it lightly if you do.

OMG on one wheel!!!

If its inside the car the clutch pivot point on the pedal box needs lubricating (silicon spraycan works best as wd smells and will evaporate), if its outside the car the clutch pivot point on the fork arm needs lubricating (graphite grease, or moly grease) MEGA

I'll give you $380 + charges for it if you want to COD it to me. [email protected] thanks. MEGA

Any left? I'll take one if you'll COD it to me and I pay COD charges. [email protected] MEGA

Sad stuff, may they rest in peace. My condolences go out to you too mate.

Hey Rick, What clutch have you got in your R, single or twin plate? The reason I ask, is that I use to use a nismo single plate, was a good clutch for street traffic use but after some 4-5k launches it ended up slipping bad. Now I use a OS giken twin plate that has been modified. Its now a solid centre twin plate 12 puck clutch that is only either on or off which now makes the car bog down if launched under 5k or certain low rev gear changes (light-weight flywheel will be a contributing factor too) and it hasn't slip one bit so far. As for traffic use, haven't stalled it yet. But now I can go "12345678....side step clutch and change lanes with torque steer" MEGA

bwahahahaha :lol: Love the your sig Sam. Is this the same Dragon18 that was going bald not too long ago? Dam karma's a bitch! MEGA

http://www.ratdat.com/history/history.html and http://www.datsunhistory.com/home.html are some great datsun history sites. the second one has pictures/history of the various models. MEGA

I'am in Pm me when you need me. MEGA

are these adjustable? if so I'am interested. Thanks.

That is not entirely correct, apart from the obvious engine, gearbox, guards, bodykit, intercooler, fuel pump, interior etc the R32 GTS4 has a lot of things in common to the R32 GTR. These are the things that I have noticed: CV driveshafts are the same, rear Diff cradleand K frame is identical, the layout of the drivetrain is identical, the suspension although being different spring rate and dampening rate they are identical in design, GTS4's do have the attessa system (including G-force sensors) and the two systems will work perfectly if connected together it's only the V-spec's that have the different faster attessa e-ts pro + active LSD system in the 32's, It is only the front brakes that are different on the GTS4 the front rotors and calipers are different, with a smaller in dia master cylinder and the firewall has a recess for a boosted clutch on the GTR, these are different on the GTS4/GTS-t and the boosted clutch wont fit without major modification, the fuel tank is different as the GTR one is plastic with a better baffle setup and is bigger than the GTS4/GTS-t steel one, the intercooler plumbing is different and would require a hole to be cut on the drivers side for the plenum to intercooler pipe and the pasenger side one would need to be enlarged to fit the 80mm pipe, and the brackets for the FMIC aren't there of course. They both have the same hicas system design but the GTR has super hicas and there is 4 different wiring looms between the GTR/GTS4 models these are variables of the auto/manual with or without front active spoiler, the auto models having no clutch input on the hicas system of course. All the GTR/GTS4 models seem to have the same quick-responce ABS system as it goes hand in hand with the attessa system with the wheel speed sensors. Nissan made a lot of things the same on the two models to save manufaturing and design costs. You only really find the difference when you have both models and you try to mix and match. There is probably more but I can't remember them all sorry. MEGA

Fuel pressure test might be better? as it would tell if the pump is stuffed, and might be easyier than removing pump. MEGA