MegaGTS4

wassup!!!...

Here is some more info in pdf format that might help also! (Not mine, found it somewhere on the net, but it might be helpful for you) Just click on the link below http://www.r31skylineclub.com/content/tech...5detpinnout.pdf MEGA

The attached pic might help when the wiring time comes.

Ahh... Sorry I didn't see that it is for a conversion. Yes you can use the auto harness there will just be some wiring to be done, when you say complete harness does this include the Fuse/relay box in the engine bay as this makes the job heaps easier to do. There will be some wiring for the ignition as I am sure the bulk heads on the harnesses on the S13 will be different to the R33. If you plan to convert it to a manual you will need to do the wiring that I explained above to start the engine, or you can change the auto's Park/neutral switch to the neutral switch on the manual and this will also enable you to start the engine. Also if you plan to run the standard engine management you will need to connect a few of the sensors as you stated above, these will include exhaust temp, radiator temp as well as a fuel pump control module and some more wiring if you want the ecu to control the fuel pump. The auto spoiler is at the front of the skyline under the front bar, it was a factory option so not all have them. You probably call it an auto air dam? Once again sorry I didn't mean to confuse you! MEGA

Shame!! Oh well the old saying is true "Goes like lightning, crashes like thunder" At least everyone lived to tell the story.

You will need these parts from your model skyline, eg R33 gearbox, gear stick, gear stick cover, gear knob, pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, pedals, pedalbox, clutch master cylinder, drive shaft, g'box mount and cross members, center console. Also the R32 GTR uses one kind of wiring harness but in the GTS4 and GTS-t models there is four different wiring harnesses eg: - A/T with auto spoiler - M/T with auto spoiler - A/T without auto spoiler - M/T without auto spoiler This makes it fun to do a conversion from auto to manual unless you have a manual wiring harness! although it is possible to use the A/T harness if you find the plug on the side of the fuse/relay box in the engine bay, this plug has only two thick wires going into it you need to connect these two wires together to be able to start the engine, (the A/T equiped vehicles have a ignition cut-out system) also the reverse lights need wiring too. MEGA

gtsm, Yep the CAS controls engine timing, which will affect engine idle, and performance if not done properly. MEGA

zandi2000, The attached pic might help! MEGA

Mick, Check both plugs and wiring that is connected to the airflow meters! Usually the top AFM plug insulation becomes brittle near the plug and when it breaks off then the wires can be pulled out of the plug easy. Sounds like your car is losing function on one of your AFM's (airflow meter), this might be dirty connection, faulty plug, wiring or at the worst faulty AFM. Just check the plugs and wiring first by starting the engine and wiggling them lightly to see if it affects the engine performance, and if it does then its just a plug or wiring. Hope this helps!! MEGA

Yep it sure does have a separate ECU for the auto trans, it will also have a shift lock-out control box connected to the auto shifter too! I have removed mine as my car is manual now. This next bit of info is a bit off topic but interesting none the less: The R32 GTR uses one kind of wiring harness but in the GTS4 and GTS-t models there is four different wiring harnesses eg: - A/T with auto spoiler - M/T with auto spoiler - A/T without auto spoiler - M/T without auto spoiler This makes it fun to do a conversion from auto to manual unless you have a manual wiring harness! although it is possible to use the A/T harness if you find the plug on the side of the fuse/relay box in the engine bay, this plug has only two thick wires going into it you need to connect these two wires together to be able to start the engine, (the A/T equiped vehicles have a ignition cut-out system) also the reverse lights need wiring too. But I changed the entire wiring from auto to manual because I changed the engine too. MEGA

Try your local nissan dealer they have them for $155 for the N1 water pump Thats where I got mine! MEGA

MA160802, I don't know a great deal about the R33 models but the R32 GTR and GTS4 have a ETS control unit under the under the rear parcel shelf accessible from the boot, this control unit has a LED on it to display system fault codes but these codes only display on the unit if the 4WD light on the dash stays on during driving. So if your 4WD light lights up on the dash while driving and if you find out the codes the R32 ones I have might be similar to the R33 and I might be able to tell you whats wrong. Although the ABS goes through the same system so maybe the problem is related to the ABS system too. (ie. wheel speed sensor) Just trying to help! MEGA

vspec, Are these still for sale? If so email me at [email protected] Thanks MEGA

bbenny, Sounds like the AAC valve needs a clean as this basically controls the idle, although in the workshop manual it states that the idle speed, ignition timing,CO and HC density (airflow-meter) are inter-related. Any adjustment to one effects the others and requires an additional inspection. To clean the AAC valve: For RB20-25 motor The AAC valve (Auxilliary Air Control Valve) is located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car. then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works. Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) To adjust idle speed From a workshop manual: The screw that is located on the AAC valve is to control idle speed, But first you need to remove the ECCS control unit(computer) from the passenger side kick panel and there is a screw there that controls idle aswell, now if you can read japanese the writing near the screw says "CAUTION Adjust within indicated range. Do not turn with excessive force" Low idle is at the bottom with high idle at the top and just a little bit past the high idle mark there is self diagnosis. This screw needs to be turned to the low idle mark and the engine warmed then remove the electrical plug from the AAC valve and start engine, Idle should be at 900 rpm, if not turn screw on AAC valve assembly to adjust engine speed to 900 rpm. Turn screw to the left (counter clock wise) to increase engine idle. Turn screw to the right (clock wise) to decrease engine idle. Once the target 900 rpm is achieved plug AAC electrical plug back in and observe if there is any change in Rpm if there is this needs to be adjusted at the ECCS control unit with a maximum of 250 rpm adjustment, another Caution if you turn the screw on the ECCS control unit near the self diagnosis spot it sets the engine speed at the lowest setting Rpm minus 50 rpm. Sorry for the long and boring post! MEGA P.s the AAC valve is located under the plenum on the RB26 and the procedure is the same!

Sim32, For RB20-25 motor The AAC valve (Auxilliary Air Control Valve) is located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car. then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works. Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) hope this helps! It really is quite easy! Stuttering might be spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines) MEGA

thanks everyone!!! I got hold of one! MEGA

There is also some wiring and you need to cut a hole for the stick because the nissan auto's are cable shifted. MEGA

Thanks for all the replies! I have been quoted $376.40 for a genuine RB26 water pump from my local nissan dealer? Maybe I should have asked for a RB30et water pump price? MEGA

Maybe change the water-pump if you feel you need to protect your engine, cause you need to remove the timing belt before you can change the water-pump. Might be the same one as VL so it might be cheap and easy to get in oz. MEGA

I am after a water pump for an RB26! I have sourced one! Thx email me at [email protected] MEGA

Gary, When switching the attessa off you will also lose ABS!(anti-skid) The lights on the dash also light up showing that the 4wd (red)and the ABS (yellow) isnt working. MEGA

The blue ones are rare ones! They seem almost black except on certain angles then you can see the blue pearl on the edges. MEGA

Try the motorex site they have all the info you require on colours. http://www.motorex.net/r32spec.html MEGA

Congralations Munro on taking the record!! You are a legend to do a sub 10 second pass on street tires! MEGA

The attached pic might help you Ethan. Its from the R32 service manual. MEGA