MegaGTS4

I can just see it now... Put it in Neutral, rev to about 3000rpm and when it goes green dump it in drive... ***BANG*** Auto destroys itself! Civic/hyundi pulls away laughing :lol: all the way to the Ricebahn! (CAUTION: Kids don't try this at home as Mum needs her camry to get to work!) MEGA

It's a give and take on the MAP vs. MAF. MAF is much easier to tune with forced induction (and cams)...but MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor) is slightly more accurate at higher HP levels and with the added bonus of being able to mount the air filter to the turbo or leave the turbo exposed like so many high HP drag cars. I would keep the HKS VPC and get the power FC!This is just my opinion though!! (sad, that the Fcon-v has to go! Cause Fcon-v and VPC are widely used in drag cars in japan) MEGA

Welcome to SAU Jedi, If it is your fuel pump...(which is what it sounds like to me given that a thud to the tank helps!) A GTR pump ($350-500) second-hand would be better than a GTS-t factory one especially if they charge $700 for one! The GTR pumps flow upto 450hp-500hp. Have you replaced plugs or fuel filter lately? Just trying to help! Is that your skyline in your avatar? (looks real good!! I really like black R32's) MEGA

What are you asking for the front crash suport?

If you buy the standard GTR motor and drop it into a GTS-T it won't drop the 1/4 mile time too much!, also its a whole package that brings down the times not just the motor. i.e driver skill, car weight, traction and engine and so on.. But the RB26DETT is a stronger base and it responds to mods very well!, with good tuning and resonable bolt on mods there is no reason that a good streetable 500hp can be achived without touching the bottom end, try getting 500hp with the standard RB25DET bottom end! So for the long run I would (and I am) fit the GTR motor and mod it when you can afford it. (as there is only so far that you can take the RB25!) MEGA

Are you sure that its not a modified V-spec II?

deorbit Sorry to here about your car! If you people are so worried about geting a blowout/flat buy the biggest rim dia. and the lowest profile tyre as this will reduce the affect of a blowout at high speed!, or you could buy some of the "run flat tyres" that are available on the market at the moment, with these tyres you can do 60kph for hundreds of kilometers with out any air in the tyre at all! (Just because its designed this way doesn't mean you have to run it flat either!It's just a precaution) But as with all new things on the market time will only tell how good they are or how good they get! They are designed with a ring that sits in between the rim and tyre aswell as having a stiffer sidewall construction! These tyres are also less prone to delaminating as the ring helps hold the rubber to the rim! Good news for all the ladies who don't want to have to stop by the side of the road to fix it (we all know how dangerous this gets) and bad news for all the hubbys that have to change the tyre when the lady gets home. Also there is lots of no-standing anytime zones (yellowish lines painted by the side of the road) so that it might not be possible to pull over and change the tyre straight away! MEGA

My car idles at about 750-800rpm not at 1000rpm!

Both motors have different aspects!(Pros and cons) Motors in the inline configuration usualy rev much higher than their V configuration motors but this also has a down side, that the max hp/torque will be higher up in the rev range!! V-twins usualy have a flatish torque curve which makes it good to do wheelies and also helps the bike have a good smooth exit on the corners. MEGA

Lenno FATT stands for Fully Automatic Turbo Timer!

Although its a 240sx site it will still help with the installation! http://www.240sx.org/links/installs/blitz/tt/index.htm Might help on the wiring side of things (Which wire goes where)though you will still have to find the Hand Brake, Shift Lock (Autos only), accessory and ignition wires and also the Speed Sensor wire on the ECU! Sorry I couldn't be more helpful! MEGA

Sounds like the same problem that I had? I cleaned out the auxiliary air control (AAC) valve, and it worked!(reading these forums can be helpful after all) Its located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car. then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works. Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) hope this helps! It really is quite easy! The stuttering might be spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines) MEGA

The click click noise stops on mine when I turn it to manual before I turned off the A/C after short trips!! Dam annoying click click click click click click ....... Must have something to do with the auto setting! MEGA

114.3 x 4 PCD The offset is 22mm up to 1993 then after 93 (give or take a few months) they changed the offset to 38mm.

Yep two stroke is ok if you can afford to rebuild them every 6000-10000klm

Up to 600hp twin plate clutch, 600hp+ tripple plate!

There is a Kawasaki H-2 Mach IV 750cc two-stroke that Drags at the local strip awesome sight! Yeah the two strokes are in a class of there own! (but you can get bigger capacity four stokes but this affects handling too much!) MEGA

Nice work! It does have the factory look!, I just relised the RC45 is four stroke! Sorry about that! Was it so you could ride a 500 with a 250 licence? MEGA

And here is a pic of the R6 in action! Also my uncle used to run the Shell Advance honda team so I scored some cool HRC racing jackets and shirts and tickets and all the stuff that comes with being related to the team manager! MEGA

Thats some nice piece of machinery you have there ylwgtr is that an RC45?(sorry I just relised the RC45 was 750 V4 config not two stroke meant to say NSR500) I have attached a pic of my bike (R6 nothing special like yours!) I used to have a bit of a reputation in my home town when I would pull up next to all the car nuts(no pun intended) do huge tyre destroying burnouts and then wheelie away!(I really miss doing wheel stands, burnouts and endos on the R6!) Sadly the R6 is no longer with us!, but we had many a good time annihilating every thing with four wheels that I came across! MEGA

Steve, As far as I know the Eaton M90 Supercharger(roots type) is designed for 3.0l to 5.0l engines so I am afraid this supercharger might be under driven on a RB20/25 (usually the best is 1:1, RPM:blower Rev. as warpspeed posted) and this might effect effeciency and another problem is the actual size of the supercharger with the eaton M90 being designed mainly for V configuration motors and has a strange port configuration (inlet on the back and outlet on the underside as do most eaton SC) and the long distance between the pulley and actual supercharger housing. As for the sc14 sounds like a cheaper and better choice for what you want to do! http://homepages.ihug.com.au/~ovlov/techni...ical/blower.htm Has some handy info! on the sc14 ( sorry about the = ,and the =20 on the above link just ignore them) Also Ape grape racing has some technical info on types of supercharger's might help you decide which one suits you better! http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRaci.../tech/index.cfm Both the M90 and the sc14 are examples of positive displacement compressors (roots type) and this style of supercharger best suits the aplication of a turbo and supercharger setup! Sorry steve but I don't know exactly what supercharger that's in that pic! Just found it on the net! Maybe even here? or at the other skyline fourm?. CYA MEGA

Nissan did well in Japanese racing with their Prince R380, R381, and R382 Group 7 grand prix cars. The story of the development of the R380 is interesting. It actually started as a defeat for the Prince Motor Company in the 1964 Japanese Grand Prix, the same race that saw victory for Nissan in the Touring Sedan R381's and 2's Dr. Sakuri of Prince took his Skyline GT's out to race at the 64 GP, only to have them defeated by a privately entered Porsche. Immediately after the race, Dr. Sakuri set up the Prince Motoring Club and began development of the R380. The original car used a Lola chassis as its platform, with 2.6 liter 6 cylinder Prince engine as its powerplant. The car was ready to race for the 66 Japanese GP, held on May 3 of that year. It creamed the competition, taking 1st, 2nd, and 4th places, with a Toyota V8 landing in the third spot. This was the last year these cars were raced as Princes. Nissan took over the company in August of that year. The block as well as the cylinder head were modified and of new titanium rods made their appearance, which allows a power of 240 horses. Nissan let Dr. Sakurai continue with the development of the R380's, which turned out to be a wise move. At the 1967 Grand Prix, second generation R380's took spots 2,3,4, and 6, with Porsche Carreras filling in the blanks. In 1968, a closed coupe R380 set an E class world record with an average speed of 251 kph over 200 miles. Third generation r380's and the all new V12 r381's were supposed to race in the 68 Jap GP, but there was a small snag. The 6 cylinder 380's were ready, but the V12 for the R381 was not. So what does a good racer do? Get another engine of course! Dr. Sakurai flew to California and bought a few Chevy V8's from famed engine builder Dean Moon. Three 6 cylinder R380's and three 430ci Chevy V8 R381's raced in 68...and won! A Chevy powered V8 Nissan took first, with another taking 6th, and the Nissan 380's taking 3,4 and 5th places. The last car suffered severe clutch damage early in the race and still managed to beat the competition. V12 R382 The Nissan V12, basically a melding of 2 inline 6's was ready for 1969 when Motoharu Kurosawa took the checkered flag in the R382. Environmental concerns killed the program that year, but it didn't really matter, Nissan just brought the Z cars to the GP and won three years straight starting in 1971. The Z Cars wouldn't be the only ones ot make thier mark, the Skyline GT-R's would make a litte noise of their own in the years to come.(from Datsun history) But my question is in 1966 did the R380 received a transistorised Mitsubishi Cd ignition system and a system of lucas fuel injection is this correct? MEGA P.s Hakosaka and bwob do you know anything about the attached pic! It might be nissan's first concept car? It was made around the same time as the R380 but if it is a nissan it would have to be the weirdest ever made! Maybe you could shed some light because I thought the 270X from 1970 was nissan's first concept car! Sorry this post was way too long!

Wow Civic to R33 GTR V-spec! Another great leap for mankind! Great car look after it!!(I would!) MEGA

or this one! Might be worth getting rid of the aircon after all!

Have you seen this pic steve. Might still be able to fit a turbo back there but the pipe work would be a killer!