MegaGTS4

What was he trying to prove at 2am in the morning I will never understand? It's that six degrees of seperation thing: "Fool's and fast cars will soon part" Almost Boasting that he smashed a GTR in the first post with a title like "I Smashed My Gtr Real Bad." and "this is the second time i have totaled a car" Sounds like the only lesson he learnt is how to smash a GTR "real bad" and hopes that the people of sau will offer some comforting advice, Well.... here it is "A GTR is not a TOY, it is, and always will be a weapon in the hands of the inexperienced driver" and you have just proved that you are just that "inexperienced" for that matter any driver at 20 is inexperienced to handle such a powerful car. What about the bus stop? Sure it was empty, but if it wasn't you probably would be in jail. My advice to Mines Datsun is the same as Rezz's comment and do us all a favour and "stay out of skylines" until your value for your life is greater than your will to push the pedal down hard. MEGA

78 V8 kingswood (beastie) I called it this after an old jetro tull album "broard sword and the beast" even had a sticker on the back, people still refer to it today as the "beastie" even though I sold it more than 10 years. Strange... 70 buick electra (pimp mobile) very deserving name if you saw it, very big pillarless car, 455 big block with big fuel bills to match. plenty of room though, even with 8 people inside. 74 Chev Impala (Detriot locamotive) Only 400ci this one but it still did 140 mph! MEGA skyline GTS-4 (Licence remover) It does this well.

Maybe try a plumber or marine shop?, They sometimes have S/S fittings that might be 18mm. MEGA

If you are going to weld it in I have used stainless nuts in the past and modified them so the O2 sensor was far enough in the gas flow. Stainless wont be to hard to undo, as long as you let it cool down first, other wise it might lock on and damage the thread or sensor. MEGA

I prefer platinum's because every time a spark plug fires, a tiny bit of metal is lost in the electrical discharge. Over the course of 1000 km at 10,000 rpm – or 80 000 km at 2500 rpm in a car – this can degrade the plug’s performance because the gap between the center electrode and ground electrode gets larger. The larger the gap, the more voltage is required to produce a spark, until the capability of the ignition system is exceeded and the plug misfires. It was found that the multiple ground electrode and precious metals such as platinum reduces gap erosion. Small diameter electrodes make it easier for spark to be produced also reducing the gap has the same effect and reduces the ignition voltage reqirements. Platinum's are a direct result of development and testing in long distance racing. IMHO expense of the platinums can be justified if you take into account the performance, life-span , reliability , labour saving aspects. MEGA

But this would make it darker not brighter, Pred' wants bright blue. I am will use high intensity blue LED's in mine when i get around to pulling the dash apart again. MEGA

Bosch recommends when installing spark plugs to use a torque wrench and the correct torque in ft.-lbs. As listed below: 10mm With Gasket - 8-11 FT.-LBS 12mm With Gasket - 12-15 FT.-LBS 14mm With Gasket - 19-22 FT.-LBS 14mm Tapered Seat - 12-15 FT.-LBS 18mm With Gasket - 20-23 FT.-LBS 18mm Tapered Seat - 14-17 FT.-LBS If a torque wrench is not available, hand tighten the plug until it is seated in the cylinder head. Spark plugs with gaskets should be tightened an additional 90°. Spark plugs with tapered seats should be tightened an additional 15°. This PDF file shows how to read the faces of used standard electrode plugs: http://www.boschusa.com/images/Sparkplugfaces.pdf MEGA

Dont sand them, as most platinum plugs are only platinum coated and not a solid platinum electrode, sometimes even gaping the coated plugs can damage the thin platinum coating causing early failure. Platinum plugs are also self cleaning, this is achieved when the plug electrode reaches a certain temperature it burns off any chemical residue, if the plug is not in the right temp range the plug might not self clean and chemical residue will build up causing the plug to foul. The solid platinum electrode plugs reach the self cleaning temp more quicker making them more reliable over a longer service life. Electrode edges need to be sharp and not rounded as this will reduce plug performance. The following is taken from http://www.ngkntk.com.br/site_ingles/direct/p19.html Cleaning procedure: 1. If the ignition end is weat or humid, clean it first with a dissolver and dry it before continuing cleaning. 2. After cleaning, apply an air jet to eliminate cleaning product traces in the ignition end. 3. Clean the thread and the spark plug metal cover with a little wire brush. Be careful and make sure to eliminate all traces of the cleaning product in the threads because it could damage the breech thread when installing the spark plug. 4. Finally, adjust the electrodes caliber as recommended by the engine manufacturer. (Note) To clean V type or platinum electrodes spark plugs, apply a smaller air pressure and realize cleaning in a shorter time. MEGA

Being an exhaust fitter that last pic doesn't make me laugh, it makes me cry! WHY!!! WHY!!! The only free hosrepower that I can think of is a Turbo as it gets its power from spent exhaust gasses. Here is some mods for N/A engines that might improve power: Cold air induction, modify and enlarge airbox inlet/outlet and put a bell mouth on the outlet, better flowing airfilter (or pod and cold air box/partition), remove all plastic corrugated intake pipes and make smoother versions out of aluminium tube and smooth rubber bends or aluminium bends and rubber tube (try not to remove vacuum resonance chamber on intake pipe or increase pipe diameter excessively), clean all carbon and oil deposits on throttle body and plenum (or fit larger throttle body or bore out and fit larger vane), Remove any breathers that run from engine to intake and fit oil catch can setup, Next time you change spark plugs choose ones that have a small electrode diameter as this makes it easier for a spark to be produced (reducing the gap slightly also helps in making spark stronger) Ignition Advancing the timing a couple of degrees in some engines might make more power but this is dependant on what octane fuel you use, next time you change engine oil try a fully synthetic high performance friction modified oil (make sure you use the right viscosity of course) this might help reduce friction and drag on engine components, fitting a lower temp thermostat might help drop engine temps for a slightly cooler intake charge, extractors coated in ceramic or wraped in thermal tape, high flow converter and a better flowing exhaust than the factory items will make more power. Try using some in tank injector cleaner (or get them removed and ultra-sonically cleaned and tested professionaly.) Run some octane booster/tolulene to raise the octane dont use NOS on a stock engine unless you want a stuffed rings and clutch. NOTE: This is just a guide, I have no responsability for damage caused to you or your vehicle or the speeding fine that you will get while testing your mods. MEGA

My GT badges are Gold, and I have only seen one other car with gold ones. MEGA

Hi, The power button is for early kick down and redline gear changes under hard acceleration, the hold button is the one that holds the gear under acceleration. Has there been a audio/alarm system fitted lately? might have left something unpluged? Also check fuses as the whole system is electronic. You might want to run diagnositics on the auto to see exactly whats wrong this site might help: http://www.overflow.250x.com/ MEGA

This is an R32 GTR with airbag fitted

Here is a pic of a airbag in an R32

Here is some more pics (from bd4's web site) http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/eng2.jpg http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/car6.jpg http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/car5.jpg http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/dyno.jpg http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/car2.jpg http://www.bd4s.com.au/images/hks%20pics1/car4.jpg In the last pic you can see the fuel cell in the rear seat spot and the filler just under the quarter-glass, this allowed room for a duel exhaust. Also the rear quarter panels meet the rear tail lights flush like the GTS as compared to the GTR rear quarters. MEGA

Injectors maybe? MEGA

third one and last one that you will need! Cya MEGA

second one!

If its for RB20 then these three pics might help first one!

PM sent! MEGA

RSG team cars are sweet have seen them on the net before they do some wacky stuff like the time they put 1jz twin turbo in a 300ZX, but... my favourite one is the yellow future motor sports R33 GTR..... that movie rocks on their site. MEGA

CharlieR34, This isn't me talking but I think this might help if you havent already seen it: In most cases, the solution to this common Mk3 problem aren't nearly as severe as the cost involved with starter replacement. A clicking starter means that the high current necessary to start the car isn't making it to the starter for some reason. Battery cables, chassis ground straps, and fuses ‹ Sounds trivial, but any loose connection can prevent sufficient current to flow to the starter. This is the first logical (and inexpensive) test to perform. Starter safety switch ‹ Your car has a safety switch to prevent unintended starting of your engine. For a manual transmission, this is the clutch switch, and automatics have a neutral/park switch. To check their operation, try holding the key in the START position and push in the clutch (or move the auto tranny shift knob from park to reverse). You should here a definite click under the dash (by the glovebox) and under the hood. If not, your safety switch is bad, or the starter relay under the dash is bad. Magnetic Switch (solenoid) Contacts ‹ After checking 1) and 2), you probably have bad magnetic switch (solenoid) contacts. This is a common problem with older Mk3's and is easy to remedy once you've got the starter out. Symptoms of this problem include clicking sound from both under dash (relay) and under hood (solenoid), and inability to start when cold or when very hot (heat soak after long trip). Try Toyota part #28226-72010 Starter Kit (each kit contains one contact) and replace them in pairs. Total cost is about $11.00 (Jay Marks Toyota 7/98) and can be replace in a couple of hours (see Tech Notes). If none of these three are applicable, you probably do need a new starter. (Sourced from http://www.supras.com/sogi/faq/) MEGA

Injectors can be cleaned at an EFI specialist, they clean them with a ultra-sonic method. (For more info on servicing injectors http://www.cruzinperformance.com/injsteps.html) Although injector cleaner (fuel tank use) might show improvement its not as thorough as the ultra sonic method. I had mine cleaned and tested and it turns out one even after cleaning only did 90mls to the 100mls. I changed the injector and fixed mine from missing at idle and cruisin. MEGA

the_tonkau, Might be weak spark caused by poor ingnition/motor earth or maybe earth leak on one of your coil packs? or lean mixture (blocked fuel filter) or faulty injector? It could very well be the CAS. MEGA

The restrictor delays the pressure signal from entering the wastegate, which spools up the turbo faster, which means more boost at lower RPM, as BigDatto posted Turbosmart have pattented this theroy and they call it the gated boost control valve (GBCV). Maybe nissan have been using restrictors on its factory turbos because some of the wastegate lines can be very long by the time they pass the boost control solenoid and then make there way to the plenum, or Maybe the factory restrictor is for another reason. MEGA

If you want someone to test then http://www.blackburnnissan.com.au/ in blackburn Victoria have "consult" diagnostics too or try your local nissan dealer. If your thinking of purchaseing one forget it the unit new cost a couple of grand and then there is $1000 for cables and software and they are hard to find in second hand form. But if you really want to buy one try: http://www.mainlineauto.com.au/products/index.htm MEGA