MegaGTS4

You can lubricate the upper arms on the front, although to replace them is a more permanent fix. (they also tend to get a fair amount of play/slack in these bushes after awhile) Its also a wise choice to look into adjustables too at the same time so that camber can be adjusted on the front. The squeek from the rear IMO might be the D bushes on the sway/stabilizer bar on the rear, try lubricating them, other than that it could be a loose bolt on a capsulated rubber bush, allowing the pipe to move and squeek, the bush in question might even be the one on the base of the strut, so check the bolts. Edit: use rubber grease on the D bushes. MEGA

In the attached pic you can see the two different bolt paterns and where the pickup comes out of the block on the RB26, as Zensoku stated.

Wrxhoon is spot on, the GTS4 is virtually the same as GTR as far as the transfer/gearbox side of things, (although from my experiance the gts4 has a weaker gearbox main input bearing and a weaker non-boosted clutch) but the main layout is still identical. Gearbox has its own level and drain plugs as does the transfer case, For the R32 GTR and GTS4 nissan recommend you use in a nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 approx 4.1 litres or similar rating gear oil. ( I use fully synthetic) Transfer uses nissan automatic fluid D Approx 1.8 litres or similar rating fluid. MEGA

Check and clean battery terminals, and conections near the battery sounds like a bad conection. MEGA

wrxhoon, I have done heaps of gts skyline manifolds and not to mention the VL (rb30) ones and all of them have broken manifold studs on the end ports are you saying that everyone has been done before by the mechanic that has a habit of doing the studs up to tight. Exhaust manifolds warp from heat and break the studs, the longer the cast iron manifold the more chance of it warping, this is the reason that you hardly ever see a gtr with broken studs, and it is also the reason the ford has two piece manifolds on there 6cyl. If the two sufaces are machined flat then there is no need to have a thick gasket, a thin one will seal. (most of the old holden V8's came from the factory with no gaskets between the exhaust manifold and head and they didn't leak, and even some extractor brands have instuctions that say not to use gaskets as the extractor is machined flat and to only use a small amount of sensor safe sealant around the ports) I wasn't talking about a cardboard gasket, the exhaust gasket paper that I use is much the same material as the original with a metal backing. MEGA

headoff, you have a PM (Private Message) Go to your "user cp" to read it. MEGA

and the last one number 3

and number 2

druzilla32, Glad to help! headoff, Here it comes there are 3 pages in jpeg format.

You need to bleed air out of the ATTESSA system if it has been disconected and check the reservior located in the boot on the drivers side behind a trim panel it has a min/max level indicator that needs to be checked with the ingnition turned on as the level will change as the oil drains back to the reservior if the ignition is turn off for a while. The warning light will come on and the system will shut down (go into 2wd mode) when this level in the reservior isn't in the specified area (min/max), this might be what wrong with your car. Bleeding ATTESSA: There is two bleed nipples the first is located above rear differential on a hydraulic unit, the second on the rear lower part of the transfer case, you need to check the level in the reservior before bleeding the system, there is a white plug that is taped onto the wiring harness near the accelerator pedal when the kick panel is removed this needs to be unpluged to provide pressure to the system full time when the ignition is switched on. Procedure: Switch ignition on. Open and close bleeder on tranfer case one second at a time, repeat until all air is discharged. tighten bleeder to 10nm or 7.2 ft-lb. Connect the plug and fit the kick panel. You can sometimes hear the electric pumps prime the ATTESSA system when doing a cold start. In the service manual it says to use "only special nissan power steering fluid" in the reservior, in the transfer case it says to use nissan automatic fluid D Approx 1.8 litres. If all else fails: ATTESSA (4WD) has diagnostics, the R32 GTR and GTS4 have a ETS control unit under the under the rear parcel shelf accessible from the boot, this control unit has a LED on it to display system fault codes but these codes only display on the unit if the 4WD light on the dash stays on during driving. The LED on the ETS control unit will flash the code contiuously even when the ignition is turned off. If you find out the codes, I will be able to tell you exactly whats wrong with your 4WD system. MEGA

But, If it was me I would replace the gasket, or at least make another one out of exhaust gasket paper that can be bought at exhaust shops, just trace around your old one and punch out the holes with a hole punch and one inside each port and then cut them out with tin snips or the like and make sure you cut the trace line off other wise you will have smaller ports in the one you make. MEGA

The manifold will be warped (as studs don't break themselves)and will require a surface grind to make the surface flat on the manifold again, other wise it will leak again as putty and silicon will crack and dislodge especially on a turbocharged engine. Also check all studs near the broken ones as the some times fracture just inside the head and only hang-on by a few threads and break when you go to do them up and this can be quite frustrating. The gasket might be ok to reuse, if you get the manifold suface machined and remove and replace the broken studs. You can check the manifold with a long straight steel ruler to see how bad the warp is, it also helps to hold it up to light and you can see the light shine through the gaps. The easiest way to remove broken studs is to use a mig welder to carefully build up weld (small tacks) on the top of the stud until it protrudes out of the head far enough to weld a nut/bolt to the top then before it cools totaly spray a small amount of inox/wd 40 around the stud and slowly remove. (small air impact devices such as a 3/8 butterfly gun work extremely well when removing the broken studs when set on a low setting) I have removed thousands of broken studs with this way, even 4mm studs! Just make sure your careful and don't weld it to the head! Doh! Just trying to help! MEGA

Just slightly above 0.6 bar or around 9 psi with the factory boost control solenoid connected and spikes upto 11 psi with out the solenoid. edit: as for specs check here. http://www.perthcars.com/r33-specs.htm MEGA

Hi, It will fit R32 GTS-4's, dont know about GTS-t's though?

European designed K1 styled kit that transforms a Honda Accord to a beautiful mid-engined european sports car, called the ATTACK! Also slap on a turbo, or two, or maybe RB26DETT conversion and have a cheap convertable comparision to a Tommy Kiara ZZII/RS-01 ASL Autobacs mmmm....... Here is the site! http://www.k1-styling.sk/default2.htm MEGA

This is what they look like at night. Got mine off the net.

Graeme, Have you seen this web site, 1987 world touring car championship info. http://www.euronet.nl/users/in004021/Pages...7%20indexW.html the bathurst and calder grid info you probably have but might be interesting to other people. MEGA

I like the way this guy thinks!

That first picture of the plug with the yellow circle around it is an ABS sensor plug.(100% sure) I'am pritty sure its the Grey 8 pin plug that has a pin missing the one just below your bridged neutral plug that contains the reverse lights. From memory mine went: Pin location on grey 8 pin plug: ......1......................2......................3......................4 .........................................................................(Power) ................................................................................ ......5......................6......................7......................8 (missing).............(nuetral)............(Reverse)................. On the Gearbox the reverse switch will be the one closest to the bell housing, the neutral switch is closest to the selector. I had to run some wires from the reverse switch on the gearbox to this grey plug. Hope this helps! MEGA

I'am interested [email protected] thanks! MEGA

MickGTR, If the plug and wiring seems to be fine, but the problem must be in that area since playing with the wiring made the problem worse (sorry about that) then it must be the Soldered joints inside the AFM have broken and arn't making full contact. After removing the AFM they can be disassembled and resoldered. The square section on the top of the AFM has a rubber seal around it that is glued in place, you will need to run a short sharp blade around the edge then carefully pry the top off the square section, there isn't anything that you can really damage there with the blade but be carefull when prying the lid that you don't break the plastic that surrounds the lid. Once inside you will see a metal box with a brass/copper lid, this box has four terminals on the plug side that can now be resoldered now that the lid has been removed. Seal the lid with some silicon sealant and refit AFM. I hope this fixes your problem! MEGA

Have you guys checked the AAC valve? check out this thread, might help! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=19569 or do a search on the aac valve in the maintenance section! MEGA

mickGTR, I bet its one of the AFM's plug, Same thing happened to my car and it turned out to be a bad connection/wiring on the plug, after I changed the (mine was the top AFM plug) plug and some wiring all was fine. had me baffled too because it wouldn't happen all the time and after stalling and after restarting the engine it would run fine most of the time like nothing happened (this is because cranking the engine would shake the plug enough to get a good connection back) I found mine by gently wriggling the AFM plugs/wiring and seeing if this affects idle. I'am only trying to help! MEGA

The shift lock control unit is located under the lower dash on an R32 models, don't know a great deal about R33 but I supose its in the same spot, the same thing happened to mine when it was auto and I just got used to using the manual shift lock over-ride which is a switch located at the base of the shifter at the front and it has a little red tab on the top and when deprssed it will allow the shifter to be moved.(they made it this way so you can put the car in neutral with out the ignition turned on.)

Gary, Yep the motor is in, the conversion only took one week to complete,we also changed the gearbox, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, ECU's and the complete wiring harness. I have had a few minor hassles though in the form of a stuffed injector and a loose afm plug and I also lost the ceramic turbine on one of the turbos but I fixed all that now. Is that your car that your waiting for in your avatar? Looks nice! When will it get here? Have you seen the HKSGTR in town, its covered in stickers that say Streetmachines.com.au, I wonder who owns it? Looks sweet anyway! MEGA