MegaGTS4

Brody, The best results can be achieved only after the computer has been reset and it learns a new fuel/timing map! MEGA

Zahos, I have a auto(Not for long though) GTS4 and I have experienced the same sound on start up (only twice so these would have been cold outside and that the car hadn't been started for one week) so I don't think that the start up noise is related to the manual gearbox. It seemed to come from the front of the car where the alternator is located? It also happened after I fitted a new fuel filter and had to clean the engine bay again I thought that a unsealed bearing had got a bit damp because I only cleaned the drivers side of the engine bay. I can't actually diagnose the problem because it has only happened to me a few times and is inconsistent enough for me to leave it alone until I put in rb26. MEGA where is NISMO?(the one who started this thread)

I haven't cut it yet because I have a Apexi RSM with a limiter remover (haven't tried it yet) try this link (below) might explain it for you and by the way it's wire 53 Here is the link! http://www.powerlink.co.nz/%7Egraeme/faq/69.html MEGA

croat, The HICAS light's only function is to let the driver of the vehicle know that there is a fault with the HICAS system, basically it will light up in general driving when the system has a fault eg: low fluid in the power steering (R32 have reservoir in boot) ,any electrical connections for the HICAS can be dirty and also a number of sensors that can fail (vehicle speed, steering angle, engine speed........) Also Note that having an after­market steering wheel fitted without the proper HICAS boss adaptor can also cause the HICAS system to show a fault. The HICAS light will also display the code for the fault after diagnostics has been run. MEGA

Sorry to state the obvious but you have run HICAS diagnostics haven't you?(just that you didn't mention it) if you haven't read this! (click on it) http://www.powerlink.co.nz/%7Egraeme/faq/index.html and yes aftermarket steering wheels that are fitted with out the special HICAS boss will show a fault! MEGA

In the future we all might end up driving cars that have a engine that has a capacity of 2cc and does 1000000 rpm and through a reduction gearbox creates enough torque to drive a car! Wonder what it would sound like at 1000000 rpm though!! MEGA

maybe slight detonation might have damaged one or two of your plugs? MEGA

You're right RE4R01A RC43

NISMO, If I was to guess at it I would say that the alternator bearings are on the way out!!(these can sometimes make the exact same sound that you describe so I would check this first) But to check it you would have to remove/loosen the belt to see how easily the alternator spins to make sure! MEGA

This link might explain intercoolers better for you! http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/howinter.htm Your intercooler is a bar and plate one!(this is actually something good) MEGA

Pva_Glue, RE4R01A is on my R32 GTS-4's blue plate if thats any help to you. MEGA

lowlux, Did you take the AFM off? Because I wouldn't want any of the dirt/cleaner off the AFM in the engine/plenum. Its easy to remove with only four bolts, hose clamp and a plug once the pod/air box has been removed. Can be cleaned/dried properly this way! (make sure you hold it with the electrical component to the top so the fluid doesn't drain into it) The actual wire is fairly strong, so I doubt that the cleaner would damage it! MEGA P.s was the first thing that I did when I got my skyline because the previous owner though the AFM needed replacing but I just cleaned it and it has worked fine since then, was covered in oil and dirt from a pod that required oil.

If that dosen't help try cleaning/replacing the Air Flow Meter! (these are very benefical for a good idle) Many AFMs are dirty because faulty filter pods or ones that require oil on the filter and the oil/dirt ends up covering the wire and affects its ability to register air flow. MEGA

VdubGuru, Sounds like the same problem that I had? I cleaned out the auxiliary air control (AAC) valve, and it worked!(reading these forums can be helpful after all) Its located at the back of the plenum chamber (inlet manifold) there is a maroon electrical plug (brittle) and a hose which need to be removed first then there is four ten millimeter bolts that also need to be removed before the whole assembly can be (careful if you want to use the orignal gasket again) removed from the car. then there is two screws that hold the solenoid on, once this is removed the remaining assembly can be cleaned by useing carby cleaner (I used kero and a compressor to dry and clear any blockages) also make sure that the spring moves(smooth) and the valve works. Reassemble in reverse order with a bit of sensor safe silicon with the original gasket(or you could make another one it depends on weather the gasket comes off in one piece) hope this helps! It really is quite easy! The stuttering might be spark plugs, have them gaped to 0.8mm this helps (platinum/iridium plugs also are a good choice for turbocharged engines) MEGA P.s other than that it could also be dirty/malfuctioning air flow meter!

My car has RS*R springs too nice firm ride! Definately not a bad jap aftermarket company. (about par with HKS in performance as far as exhaust and suspension as far as I know) MEGA

You should post the settings (that whiteline suggest) so that everyone that is interested can see them too!(only trying to be helpful for the people of the fourm) T=touring S=sport (types of whiteline kits) for R32 GTR: .………..Camber…….Caster……....Toe….. .…………..Deg ……….Deg…….....mm/side. Front T.…-2.0……L2.5 / R2.0….…0.0…. ..……. S.…-2.5……L2.5 / R2.0….…0.0…. .Rear T.…-1.0……….n/a………...0.5mm in ……....S.…-1.0……….n/a………...0.5mm in R32 GTS-t: .………..Camber…….Caster…..….Toe….. .…………..Deg ……….Deg……....mm/side. Front T.…-1.5……L6.0 / R5.5……0.0…. ..……. S.…-2.0……L6.0 / R5.5……0.0…. .Rear T.…-1.25……..n/a……….0.5mm in ……....S.…-1.25……..n/a……….0.5mm in R33 GTS-t: .………..Camber…….Caster……...Toe….. .…………..Deg ……….Deg……....mm/side. Front T.…-1.5……L7.0 / R6.5……0.0…. ……....S.…-2.0……L7.0 / R6.5……0.0…. .Rear T.…-1.0………..n/a………...1mm in ……....S.…-1.5....…….n/a………0.5mm in R33 GTR: .………..Camber…….Caster……....Toe….. …………....Deg ……….Deg……....mm/side. Front T.…-1.5……L5.5 / R5.0…..…0.0…. ……....S.…-2.0……L5.5 / R5.0…..…0.0…. .Rear T.…-1.0……….n/a………...0.5mm in ….....S.…-1.0……….n/a………...0.5mm in Please note that these settings are only the ones that whiteline suggest for their lowered cars!(though I used the same specs for my car and works great!!) MEGA P.s Inside tyre wear will be a little problem for those who use 2 or more degrees of camber!(from previous experience with my car.)

JiMiH, The standard ECUs (computer) have a safety measure incorporated to prevent potentially dangerous overboost and when it senses higher than normal boost levels and it will cut the fuel supply (you will usually experience hard backfire at this time). Most turbocharged vehicles have an electronically controlled boost pressure sensor to stop the vehicle from overboosting and damaging an engine. This built in safety system is controlled by the ECU. The ECU looks at the input signals from the factory sensors and determines if there is a an overboost condition, the ECU then temporarily shuts off the injector pulse to the injectors. A boost/fuel cut eliminator will readjust the factory preset levels to allow for higher boost, just setting the level to a higher boost point before the injectors are shut off. Other than fitting a eliminator you can also remap the ECU or purchase one that is already remaped. MEGA

PVA-Glue, Its true these things affect power on N/A engines! The resonators allow the flow of air to be increased. They do this by literaly creating a mini atmosphere where a reserve of air can be stored for the engine to use!(virtually making the inlet pipe shorter) But because these resonators work on acoustics it needs to be tuned to the engine!(only works on N/A engines because these engines need to suck the air that they need.) This link might better explain it. http://www.users.bigpond.com/pgscott/reson.../resonator.html Its a Soarer site, but they use a flow chart to explain the principle of these resonators. (very interesting for N/A owners that want to remove that ugly piece of plastic that actually helps it run better!) MEGA

hey turtle, A baffled resonator(a proper baffled resonator has a reverse flow action) or a reverse flow muffler will restrict power too much!!(though it would be quiet!) You need a chambered muffler/resonator to reduce the noise just enough to remove the drone, Just make sure you get one that is glass packed as well as chambered. Lukey(walker) make heaps of configurations of this type. (preferably offset as this will help the sound reduction more!) These are some times referred to as a sports muffler! But this would not reduce the power too much, well not as much as a baffled resonator or a reverse flow muffler. Thats just my opinion anyway(have worked in the exhaust industry for seven years now, geting too old :freak: ) MEGA

turtle, This might help!(might not too!) http://www.autospeed.com/A_0383/P_1/article.html It is a comparison between a few mufflers and resonators on a few N/A cars!(not skyline though!) I know the sound that you are chasing and it can only be aquired with chambered mufflers and resonators! These have a chamber in the middle of the muffler/resonator that allows the gas to act upon itself (cause turbulence) thus creating less sound out the back! These mufflers have a big barrel/oval! MEGA P.s chambered muffler pic attached (not worth downloading is for demonstation only).

This link is a guide for profec http://www.greddy.com/profecguide.html This is installation info http://www.greddy.com/technical/profec_frame.htm This is the manual for it in pdf format (adobe acrobat reader) http://www.greddy.com/technical/pdf/ProfecA.pdf Sorry I couldn't be more helpful because I haven't installed one before but I have installed a Apexi AVC-R into my car!! MEGA

That link R31 skyline chick posted would have to be the funniest thing I have seen all week!!! Well I know that the person wasn't a skyline enthusiast!! :uh-huh: How could you possibly mistake a R34 V-spec for a toyota spacia?(maybe he/she dosen't check his posts!!) As for the Black Mines R34 we can still dream untill we wake up!! (wouldn't give any part of my body for one though! especialy not one of my nuts!!!!! :eek: ) Beautiful R34 though!!

Aahhh just like a true demi god!!(everywhere but nowhere!haha) also hungry6 here is the pinouts for the rb26dett! Just click the link below! (might come in handy!!) http://homepages.tig.com.au/~robs/ecu.htm MEGA P.s Meggala where did you put your boost gauge?(was it in the centre of the steering wheel? If so how did you manage that?)

I'am doing the same thing(almost) but my intentions are to drop in a rb26dett and GTR gearbox into r32 gts-4 and get something close to the GTR but at half the price!! Just curious on how you managed to synchronize the turbo and supercharger set up on your laser? (still waiting for my importer to call with the news that he has found a worthy front cut as the last one fell off a forklift before I could pick it up!!) As for the gearbox this thread might help explain it better!! http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/show...=exact+gtr+gts4

Thanks Warpspeed and funkymonkey for the info!!(most interesting!!) Found another car that used turbo and supercharger the famous lancia delta s4 group B rally car!! http://tucars24.valuehost.ru/1985_lancia_delta_s4.htm (interesting stuff, let me know what you think!!) MEGA P.s Warpspeed check your pm's!