red17

If you have an R32 simply remove the round aircon vent on the drivers side and shove a guage in the space. Perfect size! And you cant tell me the S15 dash wasnt made for enthusiasts to take the round vents out and put guages in? How thoughtful of nissan Red17

Mayhem, Id only had the car 2 weeks before this happened, ran it a few times on 0.8 bar before i went down the strip without problems. My own stupid fault i suppose. But it goes better now than it ever did so I figure some of the damage on that valve was done before me. Red17

My approval took 3 weeks. I got it 4 days before the boat arrived in port. The car spent the weekend on the wharf because it was unloaded on a friday... it was then through customs and cleared on Monday... car trailered to the compliancer on Tuesday. It then took about 2 weeks to get the work done on it because he was flat out, normally he said its a week tops. Then I had to wait about 4 days to get the plate after the engineer had signed off on the work. Then simply go down to the compliance shop, pick it up, take it to the pits (either by trailer or dealer plates, compliancers have dealer plates and mine offered to let me borrow them for an hour or 2... but i already had a set). Fill in the forms, let the bloke test drive it, get him to rubber stamp it, pick up your plates and bugger off! All up its a fairly simple process, but harrowing at the time your doing it. I was shit scared of being picked up for something at the pits and having to change it. I went to Welshpool pits since they have alot of import dealers around there and would have the most experience with issues relating to them. In the end they didnt say anything was wrong... even the super loud stock standard 32 bov was fine. Cops will always say theres something wrong with your car, but Transport usually beg to differ. If transport pick you up on it then you can usually be assured there really is a problem. Enjoy your new skyline, you too can get that sense of sheer relief when you get your plates on and its all over! Red17

Well a V Twin is simple really, 2 cylinders in a V configuration with the crank at the bottom (1/4 of a V8). Most are 90 degrees apart. Aprilla make a 60 degree i believe. The main reason the differences between V Twins and inlines is discussed is due to the WSBC. In that championship your allowed to run a 900 if your running a twin, but only a 750 in a four. This means that twins have a pretty distinct torque advantage and greater acceleration out of corners, while the 4 has better top end speed. However when it comes to purchasing a bike on the street theres much more options. You can go for a 1000cc in line four which has plenty of torque and the top end speed to boot. The GSXR-1000 and Yamaha R1 are your 2 best options here. As far as twins go, i wouldnt know much about anything thats not Japanese, such as the TLR. Im not a fan of Italian bikes at all, and thats where a large majority of the worlds twins come from. Despite the sexy sound of a twin, id still go the inline four. Theres just so many good cheap bikes out there in this configuration nowadays. Where as Ducati's and Aprilla's start expensive and stay expensive. Red17

And Another...

Heres a couple of pics of the damage done to one of my valves a couple of months ago after a night out at the drags turned pear shaped. I have my doubts about all of this damage being done on the night in question, in fact i think it was low in compression on cylinder 6 when it came off the boat in September. I just made it much worse when an electrode broke off a plug and went through the valve. :eek: In all only 2 valves required replacing at a cost of 55 bucks each. Not too shabby. But it could have been MUCH worse. This was when running 0.8 bar on a stock cooler on a relatively cool October night. Red17

Dont bend it, construct it out of straight pieces and pre bent mandrel bends which can be bought separately at various angles. It'll cost more but the finish is much nicer and I believe someone wrote extensively another thread about why press bends should not be used on intercoolers, efficency wise. Yes you can run the blue pipe as is, just use all of the stock pipes up to the front bumper, then add to it with some nice stainless bitz. I believe thats what meggala's pic shows. As for cost, i have no idea. But let us know, coz im thinking of doing the same soon Red17

Depends on which 200SX model your talking about. The S14 came with a ceramic wheel T28 while the S15 came with a steel wheel. Red17

Im in Perth, Yokine to be exact... How much you want for it? Is it in decent nick? Red17

Do you have the shroud that covers the top of the steering column? Red17

LOL ICFMIC! Sounds like something youd ask Iraq to get rid of Red17

Rev210, Best you know the full story than sully a perfectly good workshops name here. If you know the full story, then shame on you for having a dig Rob, im surprised you waited that long, at least youve had time to save for it! Red17

Custom Exhausts is in Ozzy Park. They installed my extractors on my old car and made an absolutely stunning stainless mandrel system on my mates integra. Was a few years back though, i presume theyre under the same management. Or you could go Speedworks in Carbon Ct. But theyre quite busy at the moment and might not have the time for custom exhaust jobs. If you wanna go the whole hog and get the dump pipe as well, id go for something japanese. I priced a HKS one up the other day that was only $75 more expensive than i was quote for a local custom job. Remember, 70 yen to the dollar is your friend Red17

Go see Lumpy at C-Red, he know's the CA like the back of his hand. He'll probably have it diagnosed in 5 minutes. Red17

Yeah Mayhem ive got a GTR front bar so hopefully when my time comes for the FMIC ill have enough height on the gaping hole in the front so that the pipe can run under the core without too much exposure. I was going to try running the pipe along the top of the core inside the bumper, but unfortunately ive got N1 slots on it which would have to be hacked up in order to fit a pipe behind them. Red17 PS: Mayhem, mate of mine tells me hes got a deposit on a VH41DE youve got? Whadda donk!

Ive been browsing Japanese catalogues in the past few days looking at kits. Most have diagrams to show you what you get with the kit. Most of them for the RB20DET have a length of pipe running along the bottom of the core back to the standard piping. This seems like not only the shortest route, but the easiest too. If you see this years Blitz catalogue, it has a half page size diagram of it, should give you a clear idea of how to pipe it. Red17

Not by a great deal from what I hear. Red17

Thats a horror story mate! I hope your ok after a hit like that. The Sumitomo 4 spot's are found on numerous cars, including the GTR and 300ZX so the problem could also occur in those models too. Theyre a bloody good set of stoppers and i doubt most people would consider upgrading them to anything short of a set of AP Lockheeds. Unless your doing trackwork there isnt much point really eh? Anyway, that story is enough for me to get my brakes checked out! Red17

Story? There was a story in that film? Red17

Yeah they really did their research on the first one, like references to putting SR20's in civics and the all time classic "Motec exhaust" line. This sorta movie makes japanese car enthusiasts look stupid, im surprised and disappointed in all of you for liking F&F If you want to see a decent car movie, get the original Gone In 60 Seconds out from your video store. 3/4 of the film is a single car chase, its BRILLIANT. Red17

The symmetry they refer to lyes in the drive split between the front at rear. For instance the late Ford TX3 4WD's had more drive to the rear than the front, making it a pretty fun car to drive (i think it was 35/65). Where as the WRX's have a 50/50 split, and while this is symmetrical and balanced, its also boring. As many RWD owners will tell you "Symmetry creates understeer" Attessa is a brilliant system, it has to be said, keeps the car heaps of fun to drive, whilst having the advantage of 4wd when you need it. Think of it as a variable split which only delivers front drive when theres traction loss. Red17

Rob, im sure you know my story about running on 0.8 bar. So no need to enlighten you any further. In general, unless it was 2 in the morning in the middle of winter, i wouldnt do it. Red17

Doesnt mean it cant be registered, theres no need for compliance plates for anything over 15 years old. I was just wondering if this had changed under the new laws that are coming into action in May? Red17

Im sorry, have i missed something? why cant it be registered? It is after all, over 15 years old. Is that not the rule now under the new laws? Red17

Not sure if this is a silly question. But how many of you R32 GTSt owners out there have suede leather interior? Im talking about the door trims and the centre sections of the seats (outside sections are still grey velour). Headrests are also done in suede with the centre of the rear seats (and built in headrest) also done. I was talking with someone at the drags one night and i said "does your R32 have suede leather seats?" and they said "No, no R32 has leather seats in it".... i subsequently showed them my car to prove them wrong Maybe it was a factory option? Red17