GiJOr33

i would have thought that if there was less air getting to the back 2 cylinders (which i presume are no 5 and 6), then they would be running rich, as less air with the same fuel means a richer mixture.... or have i got it all wrong?

you won't need to rev the engine much harder the 7000rpm, cos that's moving the same amount of air as an RB25 revving at 8750rpm. So even if you reved it to 7500rpm you're moving more air than an RB25 doing 9370rpm... Give it a go, if it doesn't do what you want it to, then change it Your turbo should be boosting pretty hard at 3000rpm, makes it nice and streetable.

when does it spool up? My HKS turbo doesn't give full boost till about 4200rpm... so it should be a pumping turbo for the RB30 block. Should have it spinning by 3300rpm i reckon! The RB30 block is 25% bigger, so will move 25% more air than an RB25 at the same RPM. So you'd expect the turbo to spool up 25% earlier too...

Q45 is from the Nissan Infinity 4.6??? litre V8. About the same cost as a Z32 AFM. If you have a Power FC, you can use any that are listed in the AFM Menu

my understanding is that the RB25DE head is the same as the RB25DET head, but with different cams. It will work with the RB25DET head but it's cheaper to get an RB25DE, plus it means you can have the whole engine ready to swap into the car. You don't have to spend time taking apart the other engine. And if there is something wrong with the head, then your car is undrivable. The main reason for reabuilding is that you may as well while the engine is out of the car. Means that you know everything is in good order before you put it in the car. The water lines/oil lines may need to be modified, but that won't be a big deal. If you use an n/a RB30 then you will have to drill the holes and tap them. I think the R32's are the only ones that have trouble with having the strut brace... but someone that's done the conversion will say for sure I'm gonna be taking photo's of everything i do, and also documenting it all. Edit: Looks like Sydneykid finished his explanation before me!!!

outside the box

either way... i don't think people are just gonna lash out for wheels without seeing them!

ouch... that's a shitload for cam gears... i thought they were about $220 each, or am i looking at shit brand? I've got an RB25DE Non Turbo head to go on my 3lt block. What cams come in them? they are less then 256's aren't they? but a bit more aggressive than the RB25DET?

can you adjust the amount of fuel each injector puts in? or can you only adjust them all simultaneously?

that would make the Uniden one the pick of the bunch with 2w of power... extra distance rather than private encoding what if there are lots of people and you want your own channel? cos a cruise will mean plenty of people with cb's and if you want a channel with you closer mates, you can enable the ctcss and have one.

what sort of situation would you want the CTCSS Encoding thing? perhaps at the illegal drags? why would you need it?

even better... digital scanning capable. So when cops start using the digital freq, you can still listen in! http://www.uniden.com/product.cfm?product=BC785D

are you talking to me? cos my name is Andrew as well... and if you are talking to me... how do you know my name?! I run my own business.... so just apply to the dealers when i need to.

yeah... those GME ones can use repeaters. The Uniden UH052XR is a good one too. RRP $419.00 As per the GME site Duplex Provides greatly increased range by allowing access to any of the hundreds of UHF CB repeaters installed around the country

i've asked GME to send me a list of their distributors... so i can place a wholesale order through my IT Business. If that's what R31Nismoid is doing then, sweet as, i won't!

there's a 2W Uniden model... it doesn't have the scramble mode though. http://www.uniden.com.au/product.asp?ID=229&Group=2 i think this was designed with range in mind rather than features There's 2W for range, 500mW for normal use and 40mW for close range and power saving, eg if the car is infront of you. are you applying for a wholesale price through your business with an ABN etc, for varying quantities??

Yeah i looked at getting coilovers as well... but as it's my daily driver i was put off by the rough ride. I'd be keen to see what others have and what the ride is like. I've got potenza shocks (dunno what springs) and it's quite nice. But when i give the car a sharp turn there is some body roll. And the car needs to be lowered some more! I'll be getting some new springs to bring it down a bit and also reduce the body roll, but still keeping some comfort... any recommendations?

have you got any pictures?

yeah... i was just posting the link again. That zoom article is based on the middle range modified cars... Gives a bit of a review on what's about... although not everyone will know what all the features are and do!!! (i'm one of them) The LTX16 does look good though... If i had the $$$ i'd go a Motec!

I've posted this before in another thread, but here it is again. It's a chart with the different computers and the main features each has so just click here i've got a HKS FCONV, no idea what features it has but i've been told they are very good if you can find someone to tune it (which hopefully i have). Cheers, Andrew

piss the VVT off and go for Adjustable Cam Gears... especially on the exhaust side.

yeah i've got chickenwire to make the mould... what do you mean it gives a high resonance? the sound waves keep bouncing around in the box? i was going to put polyfill in it to lower that. you have an R33... you know on the driver side if you pull out the boot liner there is a fair bit of cavity into the rear guard, i was going to make it so it moulds to use most of that and fit neatly in.

25t ... have you got a pic of the VVT fittings? i had a look back through the thread (and a long thread at that) and didn't see it. I'm keen to see how you've set it up. I've been having a chat with Sydneykid about it and he reckons that you can just ditch the VVT and get an adjustable cam gear for the exhaust side. But i like to see what others have experienced too. I've got forged pistons and stronger rods, with a big turbo... so it will probably be more beneficial to change the cam timing rather than keep the VVT.

What about getting Adjustable Cam Gears instead? Is that a better option? or just an easier option? Cheers, Andrew

Hi, I'm making a box out of fibreglass and i was wondering how thick i'd need to make it. I'm using chicken wire as a mould and was going to fibreglass both sides and leave the wire between for extra strength. A mate reckons you only need it to be 3mm thick. So 1 sheet on each side of the wire and that's it. I would have thought at least 1cm thick would be needed. Also i was going to make the mounting face where the sub screws in out of 18mm MDF. How do i actually make that part of the fibreglass box? will i need to put fibreglass sheeting over the mdf as well? Thanks Andrew