GiJOr33

Yep... that'd be me Thanks for voting me as the best wheels of the day! But i reckon the Kakimoto wheels on the Silver GTR were pretty damn nice... (i forget who owns it), makes the car look so phat! -- Andrew

Dandenong Market Clow St Dandenong 3175 VIC that's all i could find as far as Dandenong Stock markets goes... Can someone please call me on 0411 570 590 to let me know if that's the right place? I didn't get any e-mail with the full details. And my internet has been down all day. Thanks Andrew

well i got the details from an IRC channel Is this meet a cruise as well as a movie? or just rock up at the movie, watch, have a chat and then go home? Cheers, Andrew

dang... there is also a Nissan-Mitsubishi Cruise! Meet up @ Dandy Stockyards @5pm on Saturday 22nd March Depart @6pm Handouts will be given an Bring Your CBs.

have you got any pics of them on your R33 GTSt? it's hard to picture them on the car! damn nice wheels though

so on a car with a big turbo (like a HKS 3040) and the usual other mods like fuel pump, injectors, engine management (I have HKS FCONV, VPC and PFC-FCON), exhaust, intercooler. Would it be worth removing the VVT and getting a cam gear for both inlet and exhaust? It's an RB25DET, and what sort of cams should i go for? 256 Duration and 8.8mm lift? or bigger, to something like 264 duration and 9mm lift? What would the difference be between the two cams? I'm liking the sound of the Toda gears myself! The top end power is pretty good so i'm more after some street usable mid-range at this stage. I've also read on the other CAM thread that you might be able to get the inlet cam slotted to allow adjustment and still keep the VVT.... is this true or not worth it? Thanks Andrew

yeah i'd be interested as well!!!

Dang.... i'd pay $60 for a set of second hand Nismo Clear Indicators! Let me know if you get any more Thanks Andrew

Nulon brake cleaner is good... don't know about electrical contact cleaner though

you can always run ECC over the AFM till it's clean, brake cleaner will just do it in one go... ECC might take a couple of applications!

bah.... i say pull them off and see if it makes a difference... that is if you can put them back on again!! lol i don't see the point of having the mesh cos the air filter should have stopped anything getting through. If your air filter "falls off" or stops filtering then you obviously haven't done a proper maintenance routine and checked that there are no tears in the filter and that it doesn't need replacing or tightening. Andrew

yeah thanks for that... it's not so much as "not needing to buy an afm" it's more which one is better for my application. I can always keep the VPC and just get a Power FC and have them tuned together. But if an Air Flow Meter is going to be better then i'll go that path!

Yeah... well i'm not going for huge HP levels, around 300rwkw is about what i'm aiming at. I don't want to have to start strengthening gear boxes and diffs just yet. Maybe sell the VPC and Fcon setup to someone in Sydney who can go to BD4's... and i'll then get a Power FC and Infinity V44 air flow meter (a little bigger than Z32). Yeah it is a shame, cos i've heard the FCONV is an excellent computer if you can tune it! Andrew

Reading through a few threads has got me wondering... I've read that MAF is more accurate than MAP, so why have MAP at all? what application of car setup/tuning would a MAP sensor be better than an air flow meter? I have a HKS VPC on my car at the moment, and am debating if i should go back to an Air flow meter (MAF) and get a Power FC to tune it, or get the car tuned with the HKS VPC and a Power FC. (I have a HKS FCONV in my car and no one to tune it.) So yeah... any experience/opinions/facts/examples would be good. As i really have no idea what the differences are, and i'm sure there are plent of other people out there who don't know either! Thanks Andrew

ICQ: 395600 MSN: [email protected]

My OS isn't sprung and it's still easy to drive. I don't think i'd go a triple either. A mate has one in his 300ZX and i hate driving it. It's either on or off!

hahaha... thank Merli. I've got an OS Twin in there now and it's sweet. Don't know if i should delve into the RB30 block. At the end of the day i'll be up for some $$$ doing the clutch and gearbox all the time. I might do the Skyline up nicely and get a buzz box like an RX3 or R100 13B Turbo. With the oil galleries on the RB25DET head, are they the ones for Variable Cam Timing? Is that worth keeping for the trouble of doing all the welding and drilling etc? Thanks Steve, i'm on there now having a look! Andrew

is that 500hp at the wheels or at the flywheel?

yeah... what about gearbox, drive shaft and diff? how will that handle it? Cos i don't really want to go cracking my gearbox to put straight cut gearsets in either.

Awesome, thanks for the reply... Why the RB25DE head and not a DET head? I wouldn't mind doing the whole thing myself rather than just buy one that someone else has started. And i'd like to stick to the RB25 head as my exhaust manifold/turbo setup will bolt straight on and i've heard that RB25 manifolds don't fit RB25 heads. Like i said, i'd be going more for the low down torque/response than the all out power. The HKS 3040 turbo should be a good match up for it (or do you think i should go for something smaller?) Dunno at this stage. Might just go the RB26 Crank and Rods, and get them all prepped, and a set of wiseco pistons instead! I'll have to see.

Good thread guys. Enlightened me a lot on the path to follow to reach decent power with out going over the top. I'm looking at doing the internals on my car too. What's the story if i want to use a VL Turbo RB30 block? Do i just need to get longer rods? or will the whole thing be different? Could i use a GTR Crank in it? I'm thinking of going the Wiseco pistons, GTR Rods and Crank. Will that make the standard RB25 2.6 litres? The reason i'd like to do the RB30 block is cos it will be more streetable, with more low down torque, and the turbo will come on boost earlier. I don't want to go for 800hp. And i don't want to have to do gearbox and diff either! I've got a 3040 turbo as well. what do you guys reckon? Thanks Andrew

yes... away from all power carrying cables if possible

Nah, haven't had time to sort it yet... mine are in the RCA's, they are running a little close to the power cable. Perhaps check your RCA's from the deck to your amp (if you have them), if not, then i don't know how to get rid of the whine... perhaps put a supressor on the alternator.

what is the tread depth of the tyres?

what gearbox and diff do they use? cos i'm sure a standard skyline box and diff wouldn't hack much more than 300kw at the treads... especially not with a few hard launches! does the VCT make that much of a difference when talking RB30DET? Where would you notice the power difference, bottom or top end? Thanks Andrew