GiJOr33

bugger... doesn't explain how to do it with a VCT head!

yeah i've spoken to BD4's... they basically just said "nup, we are the only ones that do HKS tuning". I've been given a name of a guy who does performance car tuning around SE Asia, so hopefully he has all the software. The hard thing will be catching him when he's in Australia! I think the $3 option is better than the effort of cleaning them!!! Probably takes about about 15-30min to clean them all properly, i'd rather chuck in some brand newies and save the hassle!

You guys did my Twin Plate OS Giken Clutch... remember, i've got all the HKS computer gear (PFC-FCON, FCONV, VPC). I'm still looking for the software, which i think i'm gonna be hard pressed to find. How often should you change the copper plugs and which model number? BCPR7E, is that the copper NGK's with a heat range of 7? or should i get 6... cos the car isn't really given a bootfull all the time, it's a daily driver. So if i get a 7 i don't want the plugs to foul up just from putting around (would a good full noise run clean them or do you have to do a couple of hard runs?) Andrew

hmm... at this stage i think $15 per plug will do... if i need better, then i'll get better!

for how much??

Oooo... also what oil/fuel filter do i need? I'm doing the full buy up for the next maintenance effort!

so it doesn't matter if i run copper/platinum/iridium, as long as it's a 7 plug? what's a CDI worth these days leewah? I do have a shit cold start at the moment as the car needs a tune (got HKS gear... no one in melbourne to tune it!). So i'll get new plugs to go in once it's tuned

Cool... thanks for the tips guys. I think i'll go Mobil 1 oil, and the Iriways from NGK. What is the difference in heat range? what does it mean? And how come you picked 8s over 7s Merli? and is 8 hotter or colder than 7? thanks again Andrew

Hi, I've done a search on the topic, but as my car isn't really stock ad i don't really know much about the difference in plugs (cool, hot, the gaps etc) so i thought i'd post asking what plugs i should go with for my 94 R33 GTS25t. My current mods stand at: ARC FMIC Injectors Fuel pump HKS GT3040 Turbo Exhaust Manifold Full 3" exhaust Oil Catch Can OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch HKS FCONV HKS PFC-FCON HKS VPC Greddy Profec B Boost Controller I'm looking at running 18-25psi once i find someone to tune my car in Melbourne (and depending what is safe), so i'm not sure what spark plugs i should get. I'm not too worried about the price, I don't really want to go ordering HKS plugs from Japan! Any ideas on what i should get? Also what engine oil? and should i use one of those Oil Drain additives when i change it? Thanks Andrew

Anyone in Melbourne able to tune HKS FCONV's, PFC-FCON's and VPC's?? I have these and the car runs like a pig, so need to find someone in Melb with the HKS software and the know how! Thanks Andrew

I own an R33 Skyline and my best mate owns a 300ZX TT. In a drag i beat him (but i've got a bigger turbo, but only run 0.8bar when racing him, makes it more fair). The 300ZX gets off the line quite quickly with the extra 0.5lt and smaller turbos. But once mine winds up i reel him in. Also the fact that i haven't learned how to launch my new twin plate clutch, and that i need the car tuned badly! Both nice cars, but i think i like the skyline better Andrew

with their RB30/26DETT, why did they choose the more expensive GTR head instead of the RB25 head? cos i'm looking at having a go at doing a RB30/25 hybrid, and i'd be keen to know why RB26 head is the go over the RB25 head. Do they keep the Variable Cam Timing? I've got a nice turbo/exhaust manifold setup for an RB25DET so that's why i'd pick the RB25 head, so i can bolt it on (i've been told it won't fit an RB26 head) Thanks Andrew

I sort of found the problem... i have the excess RCA cables bunched up and cable tied in the boot, the power cable from the battery (i have one for each amp, 8ga for both the power and earth). I moved the RCA's a little and the noise went away... and since putting everything back in the car it has come back a little (not as loud as it was)... grrrrr... so i'm gonna chuck a supressor on the alternator to see if that does anything to remove the little bit of noise, otherwise i'm going to have to pull out the back seats again and see if i can relocate the bundled RCA leads.

the earthing of what? the amp? Cos i sanded the metal surface back that it was going to touch to make sure there was good contact. RCA's cost me $40 each... so i would expect them to be decent. What about the size of the Negative Battery cable? should i perhaps replace it with a bigger one? like a 4ga cable?

It's the traditional whine sound from all the speakers which rises in pitch when you accelerate/rev the engine. What are the measures i need to take to get rid of it? I've got an Alpine CVA1000, EQ, 4ch Amp, and stacker... the stacker, eq and headunit are connected via Alpine's Ai-NET, and from the eq to the amp it's RCA's. The RCA leads have a ground cable at each end which i presume grounds the shielding. I don't think there is a noise filter on the alternator (so i spose i should get one of them to start with), I do have the power cable running next to the RCA's due to the difficulty of placing them separately. The sound happens on all sources eg radio or cd player. What measures can i take apart from moving the power cable to the other side of the car and putting in an alternator noise filter (actually, what type is the best one to get, and how big?) -- Thanks, Andrew

yeah i did check it... got a www.installdr.com site but that was completely different. I found a post on the UK GTR Forums that say what it is... Green/red it was! Thanks Andrew

I'm just putting in a stereo, and the old loom is intact... but i don't know which wire in it is the wire that tells the antenna to go up. Any ideas? I need to solder that to the antenna power on wire in the loom for the new stereo (i know which that one is). Thanks Andrew

My warning light on my greddy fuel pressure guage is always on. If it goes past the waning level i set it at the light goes off... so it's backwards. I want the warning light to be off and come on when i go above the set fuel pressure warning level. Any ideas? Thanks Andrew

what if you have an oil catch can? does that stop it? or is that there for something else? Thanks Andrew

i've got no problem with the OS Giken.... fine to drive the Nismo will be a bit softer cos it has one of the pressure plates that is sprung.

As far as clutches go... the OS Giken twin plate is sweet. And there are guys selling them for the $1200 mark. I thought i was going to be a really On/Off clutch like my mates Ogura clutch in his 300ZX. I've just had an OS Giken put in about 2 weeks ago and am SOOOO happy with it. Easy to drive, feels very firm and just holds like $hit to a blanket! Andrew

I currently run MAP on a HKS FCONV and a VPC (also have a PFC FCON)... economy is pretty shit, about 300-350 a tank, but it's definantly not tuned! (I need to get my hands on the HKS Tuning software... so if anyone has it PM me). And i used to have a stock skyline that was getting about the same (wasn't tuned when it got here though). My 1st question is, does an Airflow Meter get better economy than a MAP Sensor? And my 2nd question is, how much power can you get out of a Z32 Airflow Meter on a R33 Skyline (RB25DET) before it max's out (and will it be a restriction in the intake on a car with a big turbo, like a GT3040)?? Thanks Andrew

I've got two Greddy gauges, Fuel Pressure and Water Temp (both with the electronic module that does memory and warning), 3 omori gauges in the center console under the stereo, and a Greddy Boost Guage above the steering wheel... the other day all the lights worked fine, and when i turned the park lights on the gauges would light up. But now none of them do. The dash lights still work though. It only happened after i had the clutch changed, and i rang the guys to see if they had changed anything and they said, nothing but the clutch. So i spent half the day today checking the wiring with the multimeter... power is getting all the way to the back of the gauges and the globes are fine. Could there be something wrong with the grounding? The gauges actually work so i assume the grounds are fine, but i'm not sure if there is a different ground for the lights. It's driving me up the wall... if it was one gauge light that went then i'd think it's either globe or the connection to it. But the globe is fine and it's getting power, and the thing is, all the external gauge lights have stopped working. I've checked the fuses too... (unless there is a fuse in the power line somewhere, but i've checked that they are getting power all the way to the back of the gauge) It's got me stumped! Any suggestions are very welcome Thanks Andrew

i think it might be an excuse to get a bigger intercooler with the right piping and a Greddy Plenum

bugger... i've got an ARC front mount that uses the standard I/C holes and piping... i'll have to look at another way!