CrimsonLey

Any update on those lights? LOL.

Apparently I need to pass a test/course at each track to race on it: 100% in Japanese. 'Memebership' typically varies from 30,000JPY a year and races are usually free there afterwards or around 2,000-5,000jpy depending on the track. Common saftey equipment is necessary.

Does anyone know what are the requirements for road racing on tracks in JP? I was trying to hit up Okayama circuit but my mates are saying that I need to pass a test. Is that typical of the tracks in JP?

I've been following the ARK 32-R build. They're fitting a Z engine in-replacement of the RB26. I really hope Sierra Sierra can beat the Cyber team this year. :-)

GTT triple gauge meter sold! I'm selling my whole R34 GTR body kit - $1,000 + shipping. BNIB R34 GTR Body kit from JDLTuning: http://www.jdltuning.com/Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-GTR-body-convertion 1x GTR front bumper 1x GTR front splitter 1x GTR front wings 2x GTR rear wings 1x GTR rear bumper 2x GTR side skirts 1x GTR tail lights covers 1x fuel cap cover You can use GTR OEM bonnet or GTR equivalent bonnet

The sale is sorta pending for GTT 1998 since he PM'd me already. Anyone that's interested in free to PM me their full address so I can get a shipping quote for them. It's first come, first serve anyways.

I have a stock shroud that I'm willing to part with if OP doesn't reply.

^^ GTS-R emblem SOLD New prices for items: R34 used tail lights w/ blubs $200 + shipping R34 used GTT triple gauge pod (oil temp, volt, and boost) $100 + shipping (PENDING) R34 used GTT OEM combination metter $75+ shipping Again, everything (including shipping) is in USD.

Hello, I have the following for sale shipping from Southern California. All prices are in USD I accept money order, paypal, checks. Checks will have to clear before shipment. Please include your location for a shipping quote. R34 used tail lights w/ blubs $250 + shipping R34 used GTT triple gauge pod (oil temp, volt, and boost) $100 + shipping R34 used GTT OEM combination metter $100 + shipping RB26 used OEM BOSCH O2 sensor - A24-A71 047 87280 $20 + shipping R34 used AEM EMS series 1 (still installed but I'm replacing with Haltech soon) Part#30-1621 serial 0198 WITH AEM serial gauge $275 + shipping Sorry not pix of the AEM EMS its currently installed in my car Apex-i used boost solenoid $50 + shipping GTSR new Badge/Emblem (East Bear, I think) $25 + shipping R34 new front grille GT-R badge $25 + shipping R34 new GTR front bumper from JDL tuning (picture from JDLtuning's website) $250 + shipping R34 new GTR front fenders from JDL tuning (picture from JDLtuning's website) $250 + shipping R34 new GTR side skirts from JDL tuning (picture from JDLtuning's website) $200 + shipping

Thanks for the interest, Julz. In that case, I suppose I'm not as dedicated as it seems.

Going back to what you said, I was looking at upgrading my turbo mani. I stopped over at OBX's website: http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1565#<br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> Turns out that my OBX manifold is 321 steel. I honestly thought they were some American, made-in-China junk. That might explain why they didn't burst when they turned bright LED-type red.

I understand the idea. It's the same concept as the Tomei oil pan baffle or the Mine's CAM baffle. Thanks for the link.

Also found this:

Ok, the mystery continues with the oil temperature and my MFD. At first I thought I didn't have an oil temperature sensor but I got my Skyline from the shop 2 weeks ago (where they removed the plenum to rework my vacuum lines) and now my oil temperature reads when I driving fast. The Oil Temp gauge on the MFD used to not read ANYTHING but now it does but only when I'm driving hard. It seems like a wire is lose. Any suggestions?

To be honest the OBX manifold has held up fine. My car overheated a couple of times to the point that made my manifold turn bright red (looked like I had LEDs installed). I was impressed that a typically cheap product held its own. For now, I'm keeping the OBX but I'm looking at the McKinney, Full-Race, or Raw Brookage manifold for a future upgrade. Thanks for the info on 321. I only wish someone made a full titanium manifold as I'm a weight-saving fiend. I'm done with the 4WD conversion idea: too expensive, added weight, more parts that can potentially brake. I've changed the coolant and flushed the block a couple of times. Even with the two massive puller Mishi fans behind the rad, my temps still go above 100 C when I'm driving. I'm not satisfied with my setup especially since you said that your rad keeps temps around 85. Honestly my new setup cools my engine down by 5-8 degree very quickly but my old setup done (LM24 in N.Y.) kept better consistent temperatures but had a lot of trouble lowering the temps when the car was overheating. Mishimoto doesn't make a cross-flow radiator for the ER34 so I decided on PWR: I told my new shop that if I was still unhappy with the temps then I would have them reverse my twin Mishi fans and mount them to the front of the radiator to act as pushers (activating via the Haltech at 90degrees). Moreover, I want to incorporate the clutch fan back into my setup with a fabrication of the stock shroud around the future PWR cross-flow rad. I think thats the best receipt for cooling. <br class="Apple-interchange-newline"> I'm a baby when it comes to E85 so I'm not sure what you mean by 'surge tank' or 'external pumps.' A lot of other Yanks run Injector Dynamics 1000cc, ID1000, injectors for their E85 conversions. I'll probably follow suite. The E85 convert is a little down the check-list but it's something I'm interested in. I've heard talks of fuel consistency with E85 stations and that a lot of stations don't sell the same quality E85 fuel. At this point, I'm more interested in running pump gas until I can sit down and read up on the quality of the E85 fuel at the stations near my home. I agree that you should keep the power low. I only want big power at high boost but I want around 500rwhp at low boost. A Skyline in the states has a reputation to uphold and I don't wanna be slow. Believe or not but two weekends ago I had a dude that was driving a truck say, "I have a race for you." He said he would give me $10,000 if I could beat his 900HP Evo X. Life shouldn't be so stupid.. Sometimes, I wish I could live in Australia where everyone hangs out half-naked on the beach.

I don't trust UK products. Joking but the Supra is a different application than the RB. I was thinking about buying a GTX turbo (by Garrette) so I'll probably stick to that as opposed to being a VGT pioneer.

Definitely not worth $500USD as was quoted to me by that company. I'll probably just use a R33 GTR manual to supplement the R34 non-GTR manual.

Damn, I really thought that was the BNR34 manual. Seems like the only 1 on the internet is the NON-BNR34 manual

I got the Beast back from the shop a couple of weeks ago but I've been lazy to post updates. My R34 didn't take the Haltech Platinum Pro. Turns out that... LM24 in New York wired my car wrong and had terrible MAP configured in the AEM ems. I'm not at all surprised and I wish I could warn any future customers to stay far far away from that place. The new shop took a couple of weeks longer than I expected but the end result is better than expected. My RWHP went from 600 to 415 as a safety considering number 6 cylinder has lower compression. I told them not to fully tune with the AEM since I wanna ditch it for a Haltech so they gave me a 'streetable' MAP. The new engine bay as of March 2012 (shot in a ground level parking structure): I still have A LOT of work ahead of me and I'm still figuring out WTF they did in New York. Contacting the previous owner will be useless because he's an idiot and wouldn't know what's going on anyways. With that, I found a 3bar AEM MAP sensor chilling near the steering rack (pictured above, underneath the blue info plate with the RED wire). new Mods as of March 2012: Custom twin Mishimoto fans (pullers) 3bar AEM sensor (never knew I had 1) Custom PCV SS lines Custom SS fuel lines A/C removed Viper 221HV alarm Haltech boost solenoid AEM (narrow/wide) AFR gauge Custom aluminum center dash bracket Radio and front Infinity speakers removed (appx total of 10 pounds) Works Bell quick lock (additional security to car alarm and car cover lock) My buddy, that initially helped me learn about cars, told me to check out the shop he goes to and try to see if he's tuner could get my Haltech to work. It's mainly a Mazda shop but the tuner is well respected for the his knowledge and quality work. A couple of days ago, I drove 2 hours to get to his place and I quickly became a believer in the first 10 minutes I was there. This tuner, located in historically desert tourist area, was jumping around my Skyline troubleshooting each and every little aspect to try to get the Haltech PPP to take. Unfortunately, he couldn't but did find out what was going on. Now, it's been two different shops that have confirmed that my wiring is f*k-d up and I'll need a new harness. So now I'm trading-in my Haltech PPP and accessory harness in-exchange for a Haltech Sport 2000 with custom engine harness wires. The desert tuner will install a Sport 200 as well as make a new engine loom, relocate the fuse box, and clean every wire in the engine bay (i.e. wire tuck). I only wish his shop was closer so he could work on my car permanently. On top of that, I asked him to install and configure a Nismo MFD II. It'll be the most optimal time to install the MFD II since he'll be making a engine harness and re-wiring everything. Unfortunately, I'll be out of the country for a few years but I'll still have work done while I'm out. A Viper Alarm was the latest thing installed. That took a lot of time (appx 12 hours via 2 separate appointments) but came out perfect. Now, I just need to change the oil/filter one more time before I leave and then my family will begin watching the Beast for me. Beast ver 1.0 as of March 2012 (shot in its parking spot - please forgive the dark video).

You Godzilla32 in GTROC? I was reading the thread yesterday... Please excuse my thread jack but it seems like petro isn't good with VGT per the pressure in the manifold and I doesn't seems very reliable.

Interesting information on Variable Geometry Turbos. I was thinking about doing this to my RB26 but it looks like the technology isn't THERE yet.

Subscribe for later reading.

This made Mighty Car Mods:

They really are made in China? I figured Roy was joking. Regardless, I have a feeling that ARC wouldn't get in bed with any Chinese manufacture if they weren't high quality.

Thanks for the advice, mate.