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RB30 ARP Main torque causing bearing failure I have an RB2530NEO GTX3582r 1.7bar and last summer I broke some bearings and heated a spool Rod. 5 main bearings worn and 2 or 3 rod bearings worn aswell. I finally put the engine back in the car after this bearing and rod failure. I thought it was caused from oil starvation on a too long high speed run 200kmh+ 1.7bar (gtx3582) but there was no oil thrown in the engine bay through the oil catch can. (oiling setup : RB3025 neo, N1 oil pump, baffled and extended sump, no squirters, 1 restrictor 1.2mm, 1 blocked,1 VTC 2mm, rear and exhaust side oil return, cranckase venting on intake side. I now changed back to RB25DET NEO OEM oil pump) Now a French RB25 specialist tells me that 60ft.lb / 81N.m on the main bearings with ARP make 0.03mm of ovalisation on the main tunel. And this could cause bearing failure when passing 500+hp. He tells standards bolts with OEM torque spec is ideal untill 1000Hp. What do you specialist guys think about it? I'm afraid to blow it up again...

Anyone has a some spool rods for sale?

up again Andrew !

up !

Missing news from you Sky30 !

Hello there, As in title, I'm deseperately looking for a RB30 Spool forged rod as I overheated one. Brad Took hollidays and I don't know how to contact him. It is the second time I have this problem so I have no 2 sets of 5pieces RB30 SPOOL forged rods (one set of thin model and one other set of the thicker model for 1000hp) DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO FIND ONE OF THESE ON EARTH FAST !? My drift competition is in 30 days. My last option is to use my OEM rods but I don't know if they will handle 2 bars from a GTX3582R and more than 450rwkw with their standard bolts. (I can rev to 7000 instead of 7400 but I don't want to be worried each time i take the car...) Cheers

OK This seem to be solved! As you advised me : I have put a check Valve in the oil drain. (was a 14mm on picture but replaced by a 17mm model) I bought a 2 Liters can; (I baffled it myself just to do things perfectly right) See attached files ! And TA DAAAA ! Done! No more oil coming out ! This is great ! But now there is a question that haunts me... How much oil can I put in my catch can and in my heads. There must be some oil stocked by those 2. It needs to get down on the boost/revs so oil can return back in the sump. From how many seconds to the limiter do I take a risk of sucking air in the oil pump (while cornering mostly, using extended oil sump) Anyone as ideas ofhow to check that?

OK buddies! thanks a lot for your comment ! ! ! 1. I must have forgot the check valve trick. Whitch seems a great solution for me ! 2. Aswell as the 2 liters can ! Dobz : "I could be causing oil to back up into the turbo drain T'ing it with the rear head drain." I thought the rear head drain was a drain. You think it is more a blow-by vent? (it shoudn't be as the bottom end is already vented on the intake side (as much as possible)) And I never saw my ball bearing turbo smoke oil (my exhaust piping is clean). And I have no other place to T the rear head drain. Does some people here think the rear oil drain is useless? White GTS-T : 1. I thing venting it (pcv etc...) in the engine intake is the risk of putting oil in it and knocking. Quite risky i think whith my E85 setup (high timing). 2. T'ing the 2 top lines of the cam cover minimise the amount of air venting out of the head ; then minimize the amount of gaz coming up from the cranckcase... => Better oil drain from head to cranckase then IMO. Don't you think ? 3. what does mean : "hide under some coats" (english is not my first language ) Attached is a bigger picture of my sump. My holes are all above the oil level. I was just hoping that the oil wasn't comming in front of those holes when accelerating... It would cause oil to get up in the catch can. (But it is meant to be a RIPS model...)

HI There, I have oiling issue on my RB3025 néo engine. I HAVE READ NUMBERS OF TOPICS ABOUT THAT... BUT... found no solution. A complete drawing will be the best to explain my sittuation. Engine is pulling hard, I don't think there is too much blow-by... I really hope a solution to fix that and raise up my boost ! See attached file ! Cheers from France

I couldn't have a complete answer because mat had some personnal issues. So put some more elements for you to see. Here is one log attached. At this moment I'm 4,66V on my Z32 MAF. (I tried yesterday with a ford lightning maf 700hp, and I'm 5,1V at this same 6000rpm when it cuts.)

Thanks Superben, Message sent to Matt, he is taking time to answer me. I'll post the solution asa I get it !

Unfortunately, I'm only 4,6V on the maf...

Hello from France I just change my turbo on my forged RB3025. I had a GTX3071R (too small and making too much EGTs) And i'm puting a GTX3582R AR1.06. Car is running good and pulls good for these 1.25 bar i'm starting with. But when there is a good load (like in third or fourth gear) the fuel is cutted suddenly @ 6200rpm and if I stay WOT, the rev stabilises @ around 5800rpm. I Can hit the 7000rpm limiter only if I'm in neutral or in first gear. I suspect it to be a ECU tuning stuff on my nistune. So I let my base tune and 2 logs (first in tuner mode, second in stream mode) NB, when converting to RB30, It was necessary to unplug the MAP sensor unless eratic working under 2000rpm. http://speedy.sh/TKdXR/RB30DET-GTX3582R-17022014.bin http://speedy.sh/vcq6y/NIStune-2014-02-19-1758-13.csv (tuner mode with TPload shown) http://speedy.sh/n8FmB/NIStune-2014-02-19-1801-55.csv (stream mode without TPload shown) Hoping someone could help me !

As in title I'm looking for an R34 GTT MAUAL ECU. something like AA500 or AA502, that could be somethig else. Thanks for your offers !

Bonjour à tous ! (means hello everybody in my language) I'm sure you can trust french sparcks, but I must admit they would spark a bit less. Japanese ones would have an extra fire power thanks to f*kushima ! Cheers from a french skyline fan

I'm using NGK BKR7EIX And yes I made a special timing map puting 15° of timing beginning at 1/4 throttle (20 of load) and 15° untill full load. I still don't go over 3500rpm as it is knocking very hard now. (knock led lights full time at full load ) The result is good because my ECU sends the 15° i asked to the sparks. (consult panel on nistune) And has the CAS is well settled now, so no reason for OEM knock sensors to modify the timing... HUM... Actually, I know i'm knocking and the OEM knock sensor don't change the 15°... I find that weird... Maybe my knock led light www.viatrack.ca doesn't speak good... but I settled it correctly I guess. Or maybe it is bacause I haven't changed the "knock timing map" to less than 15°. the map is quite like RB25neo standard map.

I don't know about compressions as I haven't tested. But I guess they are stil ok as the cylinder aren't scratched vertically. But the car began to rattle quite a bit those last kilometers. Some cylinders don't ignite often. My Knock led lights as soon as I get 0.2 bar WOT. Nistune Consult shows usual things : 1st: that TCS is unplugged. 2nd : boost sensor unplugged too. Nothing more.

A little shitty update. Some days after have found the map sensor problem , I put my endoscopic camera to watch cylinders as I knew the engine must have knocked. I found attached pictures that showed me my dead new forged engine. Lot of €uros spent out... I discovered that my map sensor is still working. giving good values. and this untill the ECU wire. (don't know for now if the ECU plug works correctly.) the nistune allways shows boost at 0psi when looking at logs. The car runs bad as I told previously when boost sensor is plugged. Car works correctly when i disconnect the plug OR the hose. quite strange I guess... (I tried another map sensor and another ECU) Another thing is that i have 5° sent out from ECU at idle. And I should have 15° as in all RB25DET's ... Maybe it has something to do with the map sensor issue... And I knocked that much because at the beginning I settled 15° on my CAS and I should have setteled 5° as ECU asked for. So I had always 10° of timing more than I should. I building a stock internals RB25 to replace the 30... If someone has an idea for the map sesor and the 5° things... Don't hesitate !

Map sensor unplugged and guess what : The car works perfectly ! ! The man who'll map my car told me if the car works properly without the map sensor, just let it unplugged. It could prevent for new boost problem when high boosting. Thanks for people in this topic for helping me.

Hi, I'm looking for the same part, Can you help me? regards.

Hi, do you have a hitachi PS66-01 boost sensor ? thanks.

Hi, do you have a hitachi PS66-01 boost sensor ? thanks.

Hi, do you have a hitachi PS66-01 boost sensor ? thanks.

Hi, do you have a hitachi PS66-01 boost sensor ? thanks.

So I've done what you said: result : a tiny bit better but problem still there. Just to say, in these tests I got the knock sensors wired to the ECU but not screwed to the block. here is the map : http://www.2shared.c.../RB30DET15.html fuel map with some more injection timing. here is the log : http://www.2shared.c...9-04_2139_.html Something very scary on the log, Full throttle with 0.5bar I take 60° of advance... about 25° when 50% throttle. I was running always between 11 and 12 AFR, and about 500 to 600°Celsius max EGT. Some more ideas ??? An update, I found i'm in the end of the load scale when I boost on full throttle so that must be why I have so much timing. And also looking at my log, I find no boost at all all the time. But in this log I took up to around +0.5 bar of boost regarding my HKS EVC boost controller. So it means my map sensor is dead... ??? it is the only wires that took hot with the fire... maybe the sensor took hot too... ??