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IMPORTS ONLY

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Everything posted by IMPORTS ONLY

  1. Kazama Castor Rod Set (jap not china) - used but perfect working order and good condition Fits S14 S15 R33 R34 im after $160 will post anywhere on the east coast for $20 or $25 aus wide, or pick up from mullumbimby 2482
  2. Kazama Castor Rod Set (jap not china) - used but perfect working order and good condition Fits S14 S15 R33 R34 im after $160 will post anywhere on the east coast for $20 or $25 aus wide, or pick up from mullumbimby 2482
  3. i did have tein HA's but they didn't get low enough in the front so swapped to BC BR's, if you get aftermarket adjustable castor arms you will be able to bring your wheels forward to around 6 degrees which will give you enough room to leave the plastics in as well as have a better steering feel (in my opinion) and if you just whack them in easy as and take it to a place like jax quick fit they can adjust it to where you want it fast and cheap, also maybe if you go down to a 225 you might just be able to get the tire under with no scraping but depends if like the stretched look or not
  4. camber is not the answer, sure it may give you some appealing "stance" but you go any more then -2 deg on the front and you'll notice your steering change and become more darty/twichy. if your on 0 camber then by all means add a little just dont go crazy, maybe raise your front a little, (my front bars on 100mm and my cross bar under my engine scrapes when i go to fast on uneven bumpy roads) so surly you cant be much lower then me and i have no issues but then i have 18x9 +30 to give me the clearance i need in the front. what size are your tires, could go down to a 235 if there fairly wide currently, and are you running stock castor? and do you have any rubbing at full lock?
  5. yeaha thats true, but im pretty sure Nissan recommends the Matic D for the Atessa and the power steering as well so it might be worth just getting the one 6l bottle of that since i found one for $70
  6. i just found this on some other threads, might help some other people, For fluids the manual recommends Transfer case (page CH-59) - 1.8 litres of Nissanmatic fluid D [approx. 1.8 litres] Manual transmission (page CH-23) - Nissan gear oil MP-G special GL-4 #75-90 [approx 4.1 lites] Front final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid GL-5 85W-90 [approx. 1.0 litre] Rear final drive (page CH-125) - Nissan gear oil hypoid LSD GL-5 80W-90 [approx. 1.5 litres] and also Have a document from Nissan NZ, which came from Mr.K.Shindo of Nissan Japan. It outlines his thoughts on fluids that should not be replaced by aftermarket products. 1. Transfer case fluid Nissan Matic D is strongly requested because high torque is applied to transfer unit. 2.. Transfer case (ATTESA E-TS-PRO Actuator) : It is not acceptable to use DEXRON III fluid. > Only Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special use is required. Today I received the technical information from our design department. 1. The difference between the DEXRON III and Nissan Power Steering Fluid Special The viscosity characteristic of Power Steering Fluid Special is lower than that of ATF DEXRON III and the resistance to wear is also improved. Each viscosity is the same level at 100 deg.C and the former viscosity is designed to have the lower value for under 100 deg.C than the latter viscosity. This characteristic is aimed to rotate an oil pump located in ATTESA PRO actuator easily at the extremely low temperature (Around -30 deg.C or -40 deg.C) 2. What will happen if a customer puts DEXRON II or DEXRON III into the ATTESA PRO actuator reservoir in the trunk ? The 4WD performance will be largely decreased at the low temperature because the viscosity value of DEXRON II or III is extremely high compared to that of Power Steering Fluid Special ; As the rising characteristic of 4WD torque transfer becomes worse, it takes the longer time to transfer the driving torque to the front wheels. There is a possibility that the 4WD cannot be achieved in the worst case.
  7. thanks for the help, any idea where i can get the proper ATTESA fluid from Nissan, ive had a search and cant find any hits only people saying its rather expensive. would a Nissan dealer stock it?
  8. hey all, im a complete novice when it comes to cars and oils, ive done some research and looked through this thread a bit but still cant fine any exact info on what oils i should buy, mainly because i have a 34 GT-Four (NA 4WD model) which theres not heaps of info on and im still not sure exactly what my driveline parts are so far im thinking, Engine: Not Sure engine is a RB25DE NEO Diffs: Castrol LSX90 (although a guy a supercheap talked me into getting Nulon 80W-90) Gearbox: Nulon smooth shift 75w-85 Transfer case: Nissan Matic D ATTESSA: Nissan power steering fluid 'special' (the only fluid Nissan recommends, NOT ATF). i think borth my diffs are LSD but not sure and im unsure if my gearbox is the same a RB20/25DET or 33 GTR also not sure how much oil i need, engine 4-5L? diffs 2L each? gearbox 4L? transfer case no idea? ​any help would be much appreciated
  9. sorry to bring up an old thread but is the GT-four rear diff the same as a GT or is it a LSD
  10. with + 40 offset on a 10 inch wide wheel your going to have trouble clearing your rear suspension unless you use spacers or your still on stock ride height. id go +30 max in the rear
  11. loving all the black 34's! heres my NA, soon to be up to par with a DET swap
  12. little update, lowered the car so the front bars just above 100mm and added a little more camber to the front im now in the process of sourcing parts for the engine swap to a RWD RB25DET NEO does anyone know if theres anything extra i would need for a NA to T conversion compared a standard RWD skyline, like is there anything physically different between the engines besides a larger sump in the 4WD, and does anyone know what happens when removing the front driveshaft and diff? like what do i need to replace them with for RWD set up ect, any help would be appreciated
  13. what are they? i found a rubber grommet made to fit but they want $50 which seams too expensive for some rubber haha
  14. your gonna need some guard work but they should sit nice once your on BC's
  15. yeah im on 8/6 as well, perfect for street/daily
  16. i back BC's too, definitely a great product for their price, get nice and low too
  17. each to their own i guess, i just prefer the more aggressive look of the GTR bonnet/front bar. none the less you've done an amazing job
  18. where did you purchase them if you don't mind me asking
  19. yup definitely agree on the rims, dont know what i was doing with the stickers haha 34's look way better clean and yup ive thought about getting rid of the rear wiper as a delete plug is only $50 but then the rear wiper jet is still there and that would look odd?
  20. i think we can all agree that the GTR kit looks way better then any GT/T kit i only did it because i did some front end damage and needed a new front bar and fenders and a bonnet was only a little more so i thought why not. heres a before and after pic and how it sits now (obviously will never put any GTR badges on it) thats only the front end though, im going to get the skirt add ons and rear pods as well as pump my rear guards to fit bigger rims. *sorry for the bad quality pics but i only have an iphone for a camera
  21. yep definitely the best way to go, make sure you check the clearance between the inner wheel and suspension too
  22. yeah for sure haha, just never been a fan of messing with my brakes. to confirm if its 14 mm then i should go with a GTT upgrade and if its 12mm to go with GTST?
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