IMPORTS ONLY

+ 50 on the rear is way to big for 10.5's, im pretty sure if i ran them on my 34 id need 30mm spacers for the rim to clear the coilover which would = massive poke resulting in major guard-work or a defect. (less offset should give you a bigger lip too) im not an expert, just going off my past experience. and it all depends on how you want your wheels to sit. im using BC coilovers as well and as i said in a above post my 18x10+35 on the rear hit my coilovers if i lower my car too much so i have to run spacers. if you want a flush look id aim for 18x10+25/30 in the rear and add 5-10mm spacers to give you desired poke/flush look im not too sure about your fronts as i have wider guards so i have more room then you but 18x8.5 +30 sounds like it would sit pretty well hope that helps you

yes! i would very much appreciate them

i know this is an old thread but im hoping you can help, i have a ENR34 (non turbo 2 door 4WD) which i though is a GT-4 but was told it was a GT-X? thought they were only 4 door? anyway im about to do a brake upgrade and am not sure what size my bolts are and what my best options are out of the 34 GTT and 33 GTST, planning to turbo it eventually so want enough braking power but don't want to have to drill out parts

i spot a new wing too

love this car so much! where did you get the new lip and what style is it, or is it custom?

those wheels on David Lai's 34 are 19×11 -1 and 19×11 +3 pretty sure if you have a non GTR 34 without any guard work you can fit 18x10+15 with a little poke or around +30 will make it more flush, ive got 18x10+35 on my rears at the moment (non GTR no rear guard work), they sit a little in with no spacers, 5mm gets me flush and 10mm spacers get me just a tiny bit of poke. but with +35 my rim hits the coilovers if i slam them too much so id advise +30 at the rear max, for the front i have 18x9+30 but i have GTR front guards so they have plenty of room, wish i went +15 on the front instead. but spacers will help me fill the gap anyway. thats just what ive found with my 34 anyway, heres some pics for reference hopefully helps a little 5mm spacer in front and rears

now rolls almost 100% straight, definitely on the right track now, just going to do 1 more minor adjustment then get a wheel alignment monday/tuesday to get the toe accurately correct. thanks a lot everyone

thanks for that, ill use those measurements and let you know how it ends up

i thought i was doing something wrong haha, ill fix them up today so they adjust properly this confuses me because my right castor arm is extended longer then my left and has a higher positive castor? so moving the the front wheel forwards towards the front bar by shortening the rod would be adding to positive castor and moving it backwards towards the rear of the car by extending the rod would make the caster less positive?

i have to take out the two bolts that connect it to the knuckle and twist it from there (pretty sure thats how im meant to do it anyway haha) i agree there is a lot wrong with my alignment thats, thats why i want to see how it should be set up and then hopefully it doesnt pull left and i dont have any chassis damage ect, tomorrow ill extend my tension rods to get a higher castor and aim for around 5.5 on the left and 6 on the right i dont know hoe to adjust the toe so ill have to wait till i go to the shop for that, where should it be set? and ill adjust the camber to around -1/0?

my wheel shop wont touch my adjustable arms because of the effort to take them half out to adjust them, so they have only been able to give me advice on where my castor should be. and for $65 a hit it will get pretty expensive to take it in after every adjustment. i originally snapped the stock castor arm then bought a replacement and it pulled to the left so i got the adjustable ones and still pretty much the same amount of little pull to the left. nothing looks bent but there could be something sneaky but wouldn't it show in the wheel alignment sheet

and yep just found this out recently too, but compared to driving numerous other cars that i can let go of the wheel for whole straights pretty much and i cant let go of mine long enough to plug my phone into the aux

i have SRI tension rods not sure they can get to 5', and if so it would make my wheels rub on the inner plastics on that pic my left was 4 threads out = 2'46 and the right was on 7 threads = 3'34, they can only get to like 8/9 threads before i think its not safe so that gives you an idea of my room to play with

tried that and it made it pull even more left and made my steering wheel more off centre extending the length of the tension rod i.e. making it longer would increase the caster positively right? i even made the left maxed out as long as it would safely go and made the right side as short as it would go and it was still worse then what is posted in that pic thats why im so confused ive been trying different caster adjustments for days

ive tried adjusting the castor in serval ways and this set is what pulls least left

my reason for asking this is because my R34 pulls to the left no matter how i set up my caster and im interested to see what caster as well as camber everyone else is running

i have a non turbo R34 GT-X 4WD, ive just hit 100,000 k's so im about to do a major service, will Castrol Transmax Z be fine for my gearbox? and Castrol SAF-XA for my diffs? any anyone have an idea of how much oil i need for the 1 gearbox and 2 diffs? thanks

Thought it was time i posted a new thread to help keep track of my progress I'm still on my green P's (NSW) so I'm restricted to a naturally aspirated car for now sadly... since getting my licence ive gone through a few imports including a couple of 180's, S13, R32 , R33 and some subies but the one car i finally liked enough not to sell was this R34. mainly because it was so clean, unmolested and stock with no problems and genuine low k's. It started as a 99% stock 1998 R34 GT-X Non Turbo manual when i bought it. it was imported in 2010 and i picked it up of the first Aus owner early 2012 on 92,000 k's from Sydney, now it lives in Byron Bay NSW I decided to change the front end because im not the biggest fan of the GT/T look and we all know the GTR look is much tougher, i managed to find a GTR carbon fiber bonnet and GTR front bar made to fit straight onto a GT/T so that was easy work and bought 25mm wider front fenders. pre paint During the front end conversion i picked up some cheap Tein HA coilovers (8KG front 6KG rear), removed the spoiler, picked up some cheap Work Meister S1 only 18x8+30 but there better then the 17' fakies anyday. Once i got everything painted it looked pretty clean but needs more low and the tein's are maxed After deciding i didnt like the black on white i bought some Wolf SP1 wheels which have a similar dished look but i went wider and black with a polished lip, (F-18x9+30 R18x10+35) and i picked up some near new BC BR's way to cheap so had to grab them, after installing them my car is now 100% rattle and random noise free finally! and even more comfortable! i also installed some adjustable SRI camber arms and tension rods so far im really happy with the progress of the car, ive done some other things as well that i havent bothered to mention and take pics of to make it a better daily such as replacing the stock sound system with aftermarket speakers, 2 amps and a sub, replaced the stock coil packs with yellow jackets and new spark plugs, removed rust from inside the rear guards and arches, tinting all the indicators ect. its currently looking like this Added 30mm spacers in the rear for some poke my near future plans include - pumping the rear guards - getting the GTR skirt add ons and rear pods to finish off the kit - the cars also on 100,300 K's and ive just bought everything for the service just deciding to do it myselft or take it to a shop.. after that i want to get some Bride Stradia II Style seats and a genuine nardi concave steering wheel with a detachable boss to make my interior a bit nicer hopefully have that finished by mid 2014 then to move onto the pre turbo upgrades like new bigger brakes and slotted/drilled rotors, im still unsure what im going to upgrade to, probably just R34 GTT callipers for ease and price, R33 GTST gearbox and R200 rear diff. i plan to start the turbo conversion in december as ill be on my opens early january 2015 (i know its easier to sell and buy a turbo model instead but i really dont want to go back to a stock front end and have to start again, unless i can afford a 34 GTR or decide i can put up with a 32 GTR) im still a little unsure of what option to take, do i just turbo my higher compression N/A engine and run low boost on a big turbo for a while or do i go ahead and do an engine swap to a DET from a 4wd Stagea and go from there? or do i go all out and go for a 26 swap? any pro and cons for either would help me decide obviously the swap would be better in the long run, but because i have a GT-X (same 4wd as the GTR's) im wondering if im going to have trouble making one fit because there is a front diff and some of the floor pan ect are slightly different to the RWD 34's so if anyone if it is a simple swap please let me know! im hopeing the Stagea's share the same set up ill keep the thread posted with any new updates i have on the car as it changes,

been searching the net and cant find any info on what oil to use in my gearbox and diffs, i have a R34 GT-X (non turbo 4WD) would i just use the same oil as a turbo would for them? and anyone have an idea on how much oil i need for 2 diffs and a gearbox?

any chance your still making these parts?

great work Marcus, final product is amazing! any chance you have a build thread too thats lists the mods you've done to it ect? would be keen to have a read

im about to go ahead and do my 100k service and the have found some reasonably priced gates ancillary belts but there listed for DET's and the seller cant confirm that they will fit. can anyone confirm they are the same? heres a link to them http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/120950107484?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1424.l2649 and has anyone used the gates timing belt kit for there 100k service, im a little suspect because the kit is rather cheap http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251342699532?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1424.l2649 also does anyone know what oil is best for my diffs and gearbox (i have a R34 GT-X, non turbo 4wd)

im leaning more towards the +30*/35 because i want flush fitment not poke, plus the larger offset will clear big brakes if i ever upgrade. im only running such a small tires because i have limited funds and dont want to buy new ones yet when i already have some 235's with 80% tread

what would be better fitment, i have GTR front fenders and am planing to roll/flair the rear a little 18x9 + 15 18x10 + 15 or 18x9 + 27 18x10 + 35 (235 all round as i already have tires in that size)

i just chucked mine in and it was good to go, wasn't aware there was a proper way to do it haha. and yeah same goes for me i picked up a second hand one through nisswreck, mainly because they only take 2 days to have the item at my door