Joe

Adam, NIce setup on the r32 indeed, but i would seriously invest in a smaller exhaust housing, & your power curve would be sooooooooo sweeeeeetttttt :rave:

stop MrMayhem your turning me on..... I just brought a turbo kit so i cant get it untill next month if theres no buyer let me know. P.S if you can do me a massive favor & find out how much it will cost 2 ship it over from perth - sydey & the price is fair i might take it if no1 does in a months time

Compressor A/R means SHIT regarding lag. the bigger the more power it can produce (i beleive as im still learning how 2 read compression maps on turbos abit better) What determins lag is the exhaust housing. The bigger the exhaust housing the more lag you gonna have. as macka stated: sidewaymambo: yours is .70 which should be good for your application. anything around or above .90 should be fitted on a rotor, is what i beleive. Joe. Correct me if im wrong.

No1 can really tell you when its gonna spool up. I dont think it would be that big of a problem. 50(compressor)/63(turbine) is one of the smallest t04e ive ever come accross & it would give or take spool on my RB20 ill say around 3500 or 3000 give or take. 60(compressor)/70(turbine), would be just a size down (few mm difference) from the above & you have RB25 so you got more cubic (5000cc) then i do so im giving an est guess of 3500rpm but pretty sure it will be under 4000 rpm but we will find out in the end we can always port the head & get bigger cams 2 bring down alittle bit of lag Hopefully my figures are right if so it would be sweet. Almost forgot, your HKS manifold has a Split-Pulse Flange so it will help the turbo spool alot quicker also. Joe.

It is possible to change the exhaust housing on the turbo & getting a smaller one for less lag. 300rwkw....that would be great, just make sure you take it one step at a time & also include injectors & fuel pump on stage two of your work, this will keep your engine from leaning out & destroying the engine. but just 2 let u know, you might need alot more work then that to reach 300rwkw. esp. internal work to the engine to cope with it, you got to remember nissan never designed the rb20/25 to make 300kw but its do-able.

I myself would prefer a t3/t4 setup but when u weigh the value of a t3/t4 from cgc $2000 & at the same time a HKS GT2530 brand new would cost just the same so ppl look at other alt. You can sometime see on for sale for $1000+ The reason why its so popular, its just so simple, take it out for them 2 trim all the bits they need, add larger compressor wheels etc & pop it stright back in. Dont think of lag as drivable but think of your power band. Mainly Fast street cars aim towards Mid-Range torque over Top end. eg. You have till 7000RPM till REDLINE & if a turbo start spooling at 5000rpm, you have 2000rpm left for power then change of gear. How fast do you think it will reach to 5000rpm on lag?....quite long i imagine. You have 5000cc more then i do (i own a r32) hence you would have less lag time compaired to a RB20 All depends on what you aiming for 180rwkw....you dont even need 2 think of a turbo since the r33 turbo can do 180rwkw before running out of puff Joe.

The smaller then exhaust housing the faster it will spool. Find out the diameter & i might be able to tell u.

Its the muffler that makes the volume of the sound (unless you are just running it off the front pipe ) A nice tone muffler's are aussie made, jap ones are quite compaired to aussies ones for some reason. The pipes can be done by any muffler shop really, even i can weld it up for you (if u lived in sydney) for dump/front pipe i would go buy myself one from JMS they make it in stainless for like $350. Save you alot more money then buying a cat back system. Hope that helps, Joe.

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Thats right Macka! It all depends on budget, you can go full ball & get a nice custom manifold up with a GT30 (wwhich would be sweet) & a nice external waste gate, which would a nice street machine. Im leaning towards a RB20/25 HKS T04e kit (if i can find one) or get myself a HKS or a Garret GT 2540 with a t3 flange, i want a turbo that will kick in around 3000 RPM & not something that will go on full boost at 5000RPM, it will make your car undrivable on traffic.

HKS GT2530 or HKS GT2540 would be a nice conversion (depending on how much power you want to make) You can either get a T3 or a T2 flange on them T3 is what you want tho, & it will bolt into the manifold easily, im not sure about clearning everything but i cant see that being a big hassle since its not that big of a turbo. Why would it be $5000? I have heard people fitting a 2530 stirhgt into there factory manifold with no problems at all but the oil lines which dont cost more then $100-200 if that! & the turbo are an internal gate turbos.

GT 2530 will fit directly into the rb20/25 manifold & will sit in that location happily, but damn aint the 2530 small i think it will take u to like 230rwkw or so IF THAT!has any1 fitted one on their rb20/25 with a really good result. i wouldnt spend $1.5k+ on it & only make that amount., i would say its more like a rb25det turbo on a rb20 with just earlier response and bit more midrange torque why spend $1.5k on it when u can spend $500 and bolt it up lol i could be wrong i would rather wait around for a IHI or a TD06 turbo or something like that.

My mate who done it said it was a few mm longer he didnt know where u coulding find out but he did fit it in & had 2 do something 2 to the raditor or something like that not 2 sure but it did go stright into the sump & so forth.

japtaxi, so you have installed a gt30 onto a rb20det? what did you have to move to fit the turbo have you got pics of it on the car?......

well it WILL bolt on to your manifold, but i wouldnt rec. fitting that tubo in the factory location if you can get it 2 fit with all the intercooler piping & crap Besides the GT30 would not like it 2 sit in that factory position & the pipe for the external waste gate. I wanted to do the GT30 conversion but it would be way to expensive (im modding my car for road usage not drag/track usage) GT30 = $2500+ Manifold = $1400+ Waste Gate = $600+ Labour = quite abit since you gotta move things around & crap + you will HAVE to get new injectors, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator & then the retuning on the power fc, all addsup if you want to make 230rwkw or so its a waste of money 2 do that type of conversion & that turbo is rated 500HP+

i have meet a guy who has done the conversion well not the neo version & the rb25 is a bit longer then the rb20det. You got to remember *there is no stight bolt on engine conversions* Joe.

Hey all, Im on a quest to reach 230rwkw on my rb20det & see how far it can go without me changing the engine internals. I am wondering what gains would i get to switch over to a R33 Turbo as i have heard its a stright bolt on mod, is this true? what are the gains that i can expect from it, when will it run out of puff, 190rwkw or so or even less then that, and also what boost can i run with it? I have heard that the series 1 R33 turbo are steel wheel & the series 2 are ceramic, is this also correct? At the moment my R32 is at 155rwkw on 11psi without my Power FC tuned & should expect 170rwkw or so depending on injectors as it looks like its almost maxed out The R33 turbo wont be on my car for too long untill i can save up enough money for a Garret GT30 Cheers, Joe.

Im interested in the front bar, I will be interested in the guards PM or email me to confirm im in the grp buy & also give me the details so i can buy the guards at a later date. Cheers, Joe

The only one you really need is a boost gauge. The rest are a waste of money, normally people on a skyline upgrades there ecu to a power fc & power fc reads boost/water temp/knock sensor/injector duty cycle & a few more that i cant remember. Look dont waste money on gauges & waste it on something usefull like new injectors or something

My R32 hold red injectors. i havent had the time 2 take one out & tell you guys the part number but im pretty sure there stock.

Ok after replacing fuse i drove it 2 work not a problem (or i think it did as i dont think i took a good look at it) But driving it back was a pain....it stoped working agian checked the fuse & it was blown agian, the hazzard & blinkers!!! ()$#*)(&% So im thinking its the alarm or something because now it dont blink at all if i turn the alarm on or off but the funny thing is it blinks to the left not a problem but once i move the stick to the right it blows the fuse again! Taking it to an auto electrican first thing in the morning & see how it goes. Joe.

hitnrun, Thanks for the info mate, i checked everything and it was fine then i went "why the hell no check the fuse" so i did & foud out that TWO fuse were gone & beleive it or not it was the hazzard + indicators heheheeh i did it the hard way but ohh well you live & learn But the funny thing was i was a coincidence that it blew when i was installing the power fc. grrrr drove me insane its the little things that drives me nuts, things like that & rattles that u can hear but cant locate!!!!

For some odd reason my indicators dont work! $*#&A#(&@ But the odd thing is...that once i activate the alarm it blinks & shows on the dash, but when i do it manually with the indicator stick it dont show up nor does the indicator light up even when i press the hazzards! What would be the problem?....i cant think it being a fuse since it still works when i set the alarm active. Please Help, Thanks Joe.

PeakRPM: sorry mate i wouldnt have a clue or even the price of a sonic bath but if i was to buy second hand injectors i will give it a sonic bath, unless i know the owner of the injectors & the conditions. Im busy playing around with my Power FC :wassup:

People usually sell them in a group of 4's i would imagine it will be a pain in the arse 2 get 6's if i was to buy a second hand injectors esp. the GTiR ones i would give them a good sonic bath.