Joe

If you like the N1 look & have the money 2 spend go the N1 Titanium if money limits you go for the apxi n1 (or wait for one 2 come by on the forums) or if you want one really loud go for a aussie made n1 lookin muffler.

take the tyres away then will u consider?

sorry mate i sold them on the first hr of posting it

im interested if those are these: http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...p?threadid=6520 If they are & u want to sell it for the price has Mr Mayhem is then ill take it

Garrett GT30 uses the T3 Flange so they will bolt on the factory manifold, but fitting it & clearing the space is another question. I do not know squat about making manifolds, but most japanese ones are made in cast iron & mild steal & are far more well designed then a exhaust shop. I would not put the turbo top-mounted, heat transfer will go to the intercooler pipes etc, Bottom mount is the best idea as it will get abit of air once driving. Once the manifold is created, the GT30 is an external wastegate setup, so you would need to created a new dump pipe, with a scream pipe for the wastegate, thats the easy part. Hope this gives abit of an idea of what your getting into :bahaha:

the single turbo 300ZX is the better turbo not off the z32 VG30DETT! thats what im tryin to say z32 turbo sucks from what ive heard.

I think your refering to the VG30DET turbo not the VG30DETT turbo the difference i dont know but i heard there really crap & not worth putting in.

All depends on size of Compressor wheel & the compressor a/r ANYWAYS GT2835 ROX!!!!!!!!

Well give them a call more or so you would have to extend the hoses if that! .80 is still 2 big you have a rb20det go for a .6 thats what most gt25XX series exhaust housings are!

Well mate save your money & get a smaller exhaust housing! wont cost much with the trade in of yours

300HP is a walk in the cake for a rb25det! Let start with letting car breath FULL exhaust / Intercooler *note* depending on what turbo your after just get a cat back exhaust* Secondly Lets Play with Boost / give your car some extra food (fuel) & a new brain transplant (ECU) GET a Blitz Dual SBC-iD II or a AVCR my choice is with the blitz crack her up to 1bar & no more. Injectors are bloody expensive buggers Cheapest method = Series 5 RX& injectors & maybe a sonic bath depending on conditon or Nismo ones - ALL depends on budget as i said. ECU do not go past the Power FC, there the only ECU to go for ease of installation+price & alot of tuners do know how to use them over the other after market japanese ones. TUNE - You should be making 180rwkw due to the fact that your turbo has done its job & you will require a new one... Third Thing is. A new Turbo, I would suggest a aftermarket japanese turbo package. If you cant find one. You have alot of turbo to choose from eg. t04e, gt2535 gt2530 gt28 gt 2835 t3/t4 ihi to mention a few. Depending on what you choose you might require a new manifold made up & also wastegate! RETUNE. = you own one of the fastest cars on the road! + NEW TYRES your breaks only work as good as your tyres does! remember that *note* you will end with problems like blowing a gasket or a spark plug & sh*t but it just makes modding car alot more fun! You be spending quite abit tho! but ohh well you want power you pay for it no such thing as buget power Hope what i said is at least 70% true.

T04e are 2 hard 2 know if its a ball bearing unit or not only because of the fact that they have been rebuilded like a high school s*art My T04e is a BUSH type turbo & before i fit it on i will rebuild it, $400 from GCG if theres no problems with the turbo + another $300 if i want the unit to become ball bearing. when you go to buy a turbo from gcg for example they will ask you for a specification of how you want the turbo & build from there Housings is depending on budget t04 t04e ihi etc etc! i do not work for gcg

GT 2835 is the ideal turbo for skylines! big 2 make over 350hp (i think its rated around there) & small enough exhaust housing so lag is less. Only reason why it aint on much skylines are because it has the T2 Flange (GTR,Silvia's etc u get my drift) & to fit it you require a new manifold & a waste gate, & most people wont go to the hassles in doin it. Unless you pick up a GT2835 package for the rb20/25det from hks etc! Im pretty sure they will go well above $3000 but god damn it is worth it $$ vs power it weighs itself down. GCG Sells HKS GT2835 for $5035.00 so any package for the 2835 under that price is a bargin!. Joe. <-- the man whose yet 2 fit a t04e into my car!

All the new Garrett GT series are BB hence making the 2835 ball bearing.

1 more week to go till i get paid Would you mind if i put a deposit on em?....like lets say $100 2 make sure there mine?

R33Deviat: sweet thanks man!

mines stay's around the 80-85 degree mark. If yours around 90 I would just flush the raditor fluid

so far whose in? the more the better the faster the reply the sooner we get 2 have a nice run. I dont want 2 plan on date or anything yet only because the amount of people that are willing to come. It might be abit steep but god it would be fun.

Minto does not compair 2 Eastern Creeks. Weekdays are alot cheaper then weekends, all depends on YOU GUYS....

Hey everyone, How many people would wanna come if i organise a Eastern Creek Go-Kart day? I havent called them up tho, but the more people we get the better the chance we can book out a session. I dont know much about price now, but it will be cheaper on a weekday then a weekend. Any suggestion on day or night or even if any1 wants to help me out. Thanks, Joe.

LOL god if i know man, i was taught that from the text books & welding books. but then again how can we compair the amount of power used on a Welding machine to a 12a powered amp. But i cant answer your question, its might be gold plated i doubt anything would be fully gold.

they are dont get me wrong, but copper are just better! Ive started a MIG/TIG welding class & we gotta learn about voltages & watts & what current will weld alloys & what would weld stainless etc etc & nothing beats Copper in conducting electric but Silver!

Yep i had the exact same problem. A iridium plug died on me on cylinder #2. Since i was changing plugs i brought me some carby cleaner & wash the coil pack one at a time & change the plug & it ran sweet

Zahos is correct. While i was learning about electricity, Silver is the best conductor of electricity, second to that is copper, then it goes down the list & iridiums & platinum golds goes somewhere down the list. iridium and platinum are good plugs but i wouldnt spend $18.50+ for a single plug that last longer. *Note* if your getting Copper (which i reckon you should) change them as often as you change your engine oil as they dont last long. I would go for cheap copper ones gapped to .8 & have them at heat range of 6-7 depending on how much power your car is making. I blew a spark plug (Iridium heat range6) on my RB20det doin 162rwkw & Now i got copper with heat range of 7 & does great.

Hey, If anyone can do me a favor by showing me there dump pipe with their t04e setup where the screamer pipes goes & how it sits, so i can have an idea of how it looks like. I want 2 have a look at one for ideas Thanks.