mrsr32

does anyone have a pcl file of a basemap for a gtslink ecu?

Bought a remote terminal and cabled it direct to the starter

Cool. I'll just bolt it on Then. So is the comp housing the same between rb25 and vg? If I was to get it hi flowed. Or should I send it with a rb25 comp housing

Maybe I've been reading the Web to much saying it has a rb20 front. If that is the case I'll just rotate it and fit it. When it does die I'll send it to much for a hrc core

I thought about that but isn't the compressor side smaller than the rb25

I have a r33 turbo with a 21u housing. I can get my hands on a vg30det turbo that has an op6. I believe the actually very turbo is smaller in the compressor side. Can I just swap the rear housings and is it a job I can sit at home

I was referring specifically to an r33 turbo on a de

can stainless bolts from bunnings handle the turbo exhaust housing heat?

awesome, thanks dude.

do you know the pitch?

does anyone know the stock thread size of the exhaust housing, i want to buy a tap to clean mine out.

We all know the limit generally is about 14psi of a r33 turbo on a rb25det that has 9:1 CR. What are the limits of the rb25de with a 10:1 CR. I'm assuming psi for psi, it should be less as the de can flow more air than a de+t can Kinda along the lines you can run more boost on a rb20 to get the equiv airflow of a rb25

r32 rb25de w/ r33 21u turbo @ 0.7 bar 225kw 3" exhaust off turbo with seperate w/g pipe fmic pod filter gtr 440 injectors

has anyone hacked their r32 engine bay fuse box to have a terminal that you could jump start from? or if anyone has pics of how they have mounted a remote terminal in a r32 after a battery relocate. Thanks in adavance

no its not that, because i have wired up one of those and it is by the brake booster. this one only has 2 wires going to it.

no its not that, because i have wired up one of those and it is by the brake booster. this one only has 2 wires going to it.

try again. thanks

does anyone know what this is? http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/526/09x5.jpg

if you have a gts you should have 257mm rotors the gts25 got 280mm x 22mm rotors which is the same as the s13 sr20det or n16 pulsar. This uses the same caliper you have, so all you need is the caliper bracket and rotor. This is a really cheap upgrade and works well with some good pads. Good thing is the rotors are dirty cheap because they are common. Next up is r33 gts25 (non turbo). These are 280x26mm rotors, still 4 stud. They are a 2 piston caliper. The same as a u13 bluebird turbo or w10/w11 avenir. These rotors are rare and cost lots. After this you may as well got 5 stud. I know because i've done all of those to my car

sweet, i'll use the rail without when i swap injectors, one less vac hose to deal with.

Given the choice of a rail without the damper which one is better? one without the damper or one with the damper?

can you get to the inside screw without taking the plenum off and what tools would you need? rb20 owners will know what i mean. thanks in advance.

thanks didn't have a hose long enough so tee'd it off teh boost gauge feed at the back of the plenum for now. not ideal i know. does anyone know where it plugs into from factory?

Thanks for the advice guys, i'll buy a tee and do that. i was going to run it into the oil sandwich plate, but i'll keep that just for oil temp.

where is the vac feed for the fuel pulse damper suppose to come from? can it come from the one on the throttle body as from what I've read it has to come pre manifold. just swapping motors over and the old one didn't have one, just had the fpr at the front. thanks in advance