mrsr32

yeah, looking at other places to mount it. steering column in a pillar by boost gauge

For use on track days And drags

Has anyone put a shift light or led info the factory gauge cluster?

Thanks all, i bought the car today, pulled the aac to bits and cleaned it out, still idles high. I can adjust the idle with the screw so have it just under 1000rpm and it drives ok, see how it is after a cold start though. To check the base timing, do i need to change the idle down to 650 and then set the timing or can i do it at my new idle?

my clock in my gauge cluster has just died, no blacklit, nothing. Can it be fixed or do i need a new cluster?

thanks all

i have the pro version, works a treat, i just want tps/rpm overlays now.

Just had alook at a car and the guy has the aac unplugged, said that when he plugs it in, it idles around 2000rpm. he has tried cleaning it apparently. he says it just runs rough when cold. any adverse affects to not having acc plugged in? car has no a/c

I just blocked the pcv and the return pipe to the intake. With no hoses on the valve covers at idle. I can easily see oil vapour coming out. Is it normal to have that much?

I've been using harry's lap timer to record my track days and would like to get throttle/rpm from the consult if possible. does anyone know if this is possible and what extra hardware would i need?

2 knock sensors, just fit resistors into each ecu wire to remove it.

hmm ok, maybe i will change and get some solid castor arms

i meant mine still has a rubber bush at the front instead of the solid link, it just has the screw in the middle so you can make it shorter than you can with just a poly bush and the eccentric sleeve. might look at getting the equiv for the rear camber and traction arms if these new bushes in the rear don't give enough adj

damn you're quick I took your advice and replacing my 1 piece poly adj castor rods with hardrace rose jointed ones, didn't want to go pillow ball. r33 lower front arms with poly bush to get more front camber and these bushes at the rear as well as repalcing the rear lower arm bushes with polys.

my car is on king spring lows. i've got the kca347 adj poly bush set from whiteline and I've done the camer arm and set that longer to reduce the rear camber. what length is the traction rod suppose to be?

i emailed the guys at tcag and they said an electronic ap500 would suit the car better.

Thanks. I'll check base timing tomorrow. I am running an auto ecu as well which is usuall 20deg instead of 15

does anyone know when the car switches from cold start map to regular map? is it done off the water temp? car always runs like crap until it is warm, i.e you have to rev the crap out of it to get up to speed.

interesting as i've recently replaced my 2 piece poly castor bushes with single piece ones. next time i'll try replacing them with complete arms. i'm like you and have replaced all the rear bushes for poly and adj in camber and traction arms. I was just interested in the fact that you said you run castor arms on a street car as I debated it before goign for the single piece castor bush.

has anyone got one of these fitted in their skylines? http://www.tcag.com.au//products.html?c=65

gtsboy do you run poly bushes in the rear arms or rose jointed ones like your castor rods?

Has anyone wired these so they are always on and not just when the headlights are?

13.8 @ 100mph 176rwkw r32 sedan 1390kg full tank w driver

yes middle bulb. left bulb is t5 isn't it? because the t10 that is in the gauge cluster and park lights is much bigger

what are you on about?