Philr32

Thanks for all the help everyone. Got the bolt tightened, will keep an eye on the situation and see how we go

For my 1000th dumb noob question, what are the receivers you speak off? Receivers for TV or radio?

That would be awesome, some of the valve and the gasket, lines and T-pieces that come with it.

Yea price is negotiable, I know I won't get $280. Plus you don't have to wait for it to come from Japan/overseas. See what happens

Anyone used one of these? I would've thought it was a gimmick but a mate has one on his HSV GTS and he reckons it improved throttle response heaps https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/301876348459

Looks nice, got any plans for it?

Cheers, that was somewhat along the lines of what I was thinking. How tight are we talking here, whip out the rattle gun tight?

Thanks! I may end up taking you up on that.

You can probably tell but I'm a bit clueless in that area. I thought that possibly the wheel bearing being worn may have allowed the nut to come loose? That's probably impossibly, I have no idea with wheel bearings. The main hub nut was literally finger tight when I took the wheel off, I was undoing it by hand til it hit the usual surface rust and dirt. What size is the main hub nut in an M35, 30mm, 32mm? I used a shifter to semi-tighten it (don't shoot me, I hate shifters but don't have the ginormous socket the right size).

Hmmm, the other side the disc didn't wobble at all but yea. I did try with the wheel on, it wobbled until I tightened everything up, now it doesn't wobble

Hey so I think my rear wheel bearing is gone, it was making the usual wheel bearing noise, it would squeak like something needed grease particularly when going around a corner, the wheel had heaps of camber, with the wheel off the brake disc wobbles back and forth when you push the bottom and the big nut that's circled in red in the pic was loose. I've tightened the large nut and also made sure the wheel is nice and tight, this tool away a lot of the camber and also the squeaking, wheel bearing noise still there but no where near as loud and the brake disc still wobbles a tiny bit with the wheel off but once again not as much as before. Am I correct in assuming it's the wheel bearing? The problem is on the rear of it makes any difference.

Thanks thought it may be the case but wasn't sure

I was looking on eBay for 34GTT calipers, found these in the link below but they don't look like other 34 GTT calipers I've seen as above. Anyone know the difference and what these may actually be off? https://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/131607620769

Is the BOV genuine? A lot fakes going around of them. I'm interested if it's genuine.

For sale I have a HKS OB-Link. It's used obviously but fully functioning, works perfect. Selling as I don't really use it. I can demonstrate to buyer that it works as I still have it plugged in and have an android device. If you're not sure what it is here's the link to HKS website: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/electronics/monitor/ob-link/ I'm located in Sydney, willing to post at buyers expense. Asking $280

For sale I have a HKS OB-Link. It's used obviously but fully functioning, works perfect. Selling as I don't really use it. I can demonstrate to buyer that it works as I still have it plugged in and have an android device. If you're not sure what it is here's the link to HKS website: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/product/electronics/monitor/ob-link/ I'm located in Sydney, willing to post at buyers expense. Asking $280

So there's no harm in just unplugging it for now and living with the dash light? I can't stand it either, it felt like something was wrong in the back end especially during quick direction changes (well quick for 2ton wagon). Will look further intolerant non-HICAS subframe in the future

I may end up taking you up on that offer, cheers. Soldering and heat shrinking I can do. Thanks

Putting my stupid hat on here (not that I ever took it off), there's no quick fix like pulling a fuse? Haha

Hey guys, is there a somewhat easy way to remove HICAS on an M35 or do I need to ditch the HICAS subframe and get a non-HICAS subframe. I went for a spirited drive and its RRREEAAALLLYYY annoying. I know on the older HICAS cars you just buy the lock bar and swap around but the M35 HICAS is quite different. Any help or tips is appreciate cheers.

Damn, was hoping to avoid that.

Does jaycar or similar sell the airbag plugs like on the seat?

A shame the pics no longer work. I'm going to have a look at my OEM seats and have also asked amayama if they can get NISMO airbag harnesses plus I'm going to look into the 2.2ohm resistor, see which one works out best/easiest.

Do you use 350z discs or something else?

I've seen people running 1" wider rims on the rear but same size tyres front and back which they say they have had no issues with. I guess that's not entirely relevant for this post but some extra info on a similar topic.