Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently instaled a bosch 044 in-tank fuel pupm and after about 5mins of driving it starts cavitating and not pupmping.

its starts making a bouncing groaning noise, when you squeeze the hose it pulsates

has this happend to anyone?

in a r32gtr

Edited by T04GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100173-044-in-tank/
Share on other sites

umm. no full tank evrything good. pump just isnt hapy,

do they have to be VERTICLE in the tank?.

im a mechanic and not retarded(some may argue)

cheeres :D:P

ps. worth noting i removed the inline damper in the tank. this helped but still shit.

also the return that directs it back to the base of the pump.

(so it doesnt suck warm airated fuel.)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100173-044-in-tank/#findComment-1826417
Share on other sites

my 910 makes a groaning noise when there is about 12L left in the tank, and the car startsd surging when there is 5L left. when is starts making the noise it doesnt affect the pumping though.

i think the noise is from vibration and touching the fuel tank. does yours touch the bottom of the fuel tank?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100173-044-in-tank/#findComment-1826491
Share on other sites

if it has a mesh bottom it is not an 044, it is an 040!!

check the pdf as well. look on the box, it cant be an 044...

ok. its a 040 intank!! :lol:

doesnt matter i fixed it. i put a peirburg scroll pump from a merc in.

(had them from my old car)

now its not airating the fuel and im much hapier :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100173-044-in-tank/#findComment-1826948
Share on other sites

that sounds a bit nieve. how can a fuel pump be shit..? they do the same pump fuel.. sounds like someone prefers a walboro. had one in my GTiR.. crazy little sucker.. forgot what psi it pumped out :blink:

what is recommended for GTR? ive only had it for 2 weeks lol.. time to start modding :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100173-044-in-tank/#findComment-1828115
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...