Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if you drop a rb26 in you'll have to change so much shit. seriously not worth it. it'll cost more than buying a gtr and you cant sell a gtst with an rb26 for more than a gtr. you'll regret it. go for reliability. buy a freshly reco'd rb20. or drop a second hand one in and sell the whole car if u want a lot more power. it will be sooooooooooo much cheaper this way. don't have to replace computer, gearbox etc...

  • Replies 55
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

just do a 25/30 and a big turbo, get some great power out of that.

uhhh... an RB30DET conversion is not the answer to everything...

you've mentioned it on the first page already, and everyone ignored you so just drop it.

just because you have bought one, doesnt mean everyone else can easily pull a good 10G+ outta their asses just to build one to be just like you.

signing off

RB30DET expert

uhhh... an RB30DET conversion is not the answer to everything...

you've mentioned it on the first page already - so just give it a break.

just because you have bought one, doesnt mean its as easy as pulling a good 10G+ outta your ass just to build one.

signing off

RB30DET expert

Correct Rb30 expert! To make it even worthwhile you’re spending big money to build it, and build it right. Other wise it’s just a basic, low revving diesel like motor, pretty damn boring IMHO.

I wouldn't go Rb26, for the same amount you could have a pretty mean Rb25 that’s pretty rev happy.

Each to their own.

Edited by Nismo_Boy

umm... have you seen what's involved with most of the guys on SAU who have had RB30DET's built??

Well - she obviously isn't going to build the motor herself (correct me if i'm wrong) but the labour involved will easily make that 10g.

I know you haven't said the answer to everything is an RB30, but your response to everything seems to be.

cheaper than a rb26 and less costly to fix if something goes wrong.

Proof?

To make it even worthwhile you’re spending big money to build it, and build it right. Other wise it’s just a basic, low revving diesel like motor

point exactly....

you have not even thought about the practicality of having the RB30 in her R32 - the fact that it sits higher and she would need a custom bonnet, or lowering of the actual motor.

now the more important question for Jadles is:

what does she intend to do with the car?

- does she want a dyno car that will produce the numbers?

- does she want a quick drag car?

- does she want a track car?

- does she want a car that will drive from A - B?

- does she want a street car that will be ready for all of the above?

what is her budget?

- does she want something reliable?

when she has considered all of those, then you can throw her the RB600DETT

Thought I'd step in here. Hey Ben how's things?

Anyway....RB30 with the RB25 head and a few other simple mods will absolutely wet over any pissant RB26.

For starters...

1. engine capacity is greater so there is much more torque

2. Rb25 head flows more than the Rb26

3. RB25/30 engine will cost you $200 to fix if you lose a bearing or break the bottom end.

4. MUCH MORE HORSEPOWER can be made from an RB25/30 than any other RB engine.

The only downfalls of the RB30 is they don't have the oil jets for the pistons....which can be sourced and placed easily enough.

The RB30 oil pumps are disigned weaker than the other RB engine so when they are punching out loads of torque they snap the snout of the pump off.

Signing off...

Everything EXPERT!

Edited by 3lit3 32
haha if your paying 10k for a 25/30 your being ripped off big time.

Never said it was the answer to everything at all, cheaper than a rb26 and less costly to fix if something goes wrong.

If your not spending ATLEAST $10k, your not getting a very good motor. Slapped together junk piles either don't last very long or drive like dog motors. Why any one would bother with a basic rb25/rb30 has me lost.

We've blown $25k on an Rb25 (not my R32 motor) very easy and it still wasn't perfect, what bob the builder back yardmen you get quotes from amazes me.

A reliable 400rwhp RB25/30 shouldn't cost you more than $6000. I've done the figures many times. You just have to get all the parts yourself and not rely on Mary Markup to get them for you.

a reliable 400rwhp Rb25/Rb30 that doesn't feel like a diesel motor on the other hand :)

$3k for head & head work.

$1k for block, balanced, honed, nitrited.

Forgies - Depends what type? from $1500

Rods - " " $2k I guess.

ECU ?

Tune ?

Misc?

Cooler?

Piping?

clutch?

Thats $7500 alone just for the numbers I posted let alone adding in everthing else plus labour.

Thought I'd step in here. Hey Ben how's things?

Anyway....RB30 with the RB25 head and a few other simple mods will absolutely wet over any pissant RB26.

For starters...

1. engine capacity is greater so there is much more torque

2. Rb25 head flows more than the Rb26

3. RB25/30 engine will cost you $200 to fix if you lose a bearing or break the bottom end.

4. MUCH MORE HORSEPOWER can be made from an RB25/30 than any other RB engine.

The only downfalls of the RB30 is they don't have the oil jets for the pistons....which can be sourced and placed easily enough.

The RB30 oil pumps are disigned weaker than the other RB engine so when they are punching out loads of torque they snap the snout of the pump off.

Signing off...

Everything EXPERT!

Hey Dan, ahh yeh not too bad.

After seeing dan's 32 and hearing about some of the work he's done, i'd pretty much take his word over the majority of people on here. When he gets his shop up and running i know where im taking my car simple as that.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...