Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just purchesed a RB25DET R32 4door from japan with a HKS GT2835R turbo kit , high mounted with 38mm ex gate,GARAGE SAURAS remap ecu,480cc injectors (nismo), AFM removed ,metal nismo headgasket, step 1 tomei cams with adj cam gears from hks.

now,

bad news.. turbo is giving way apprently the auction report says.. it says "TURBINE OIL LEAK" .... I am not sure what they mean, but im guessing oil seals?..

I am tossing up to get a GCG hiflow on the standard r34 turbo i can get for dirt cheap?

Does anyone have dyno graph of the GCGhiflow on the RB25 ? and one with the 2835R HKS ?

i will be using it for drift/street purpose so i wanna compare midrange power (@4500rpm ) on 1.3bar atleast.

what is the "max power" average on these GCG turbos? and HKS 2835R?

im sure you know my situation and questions, as my turbo is probably blowing smoke like a c**t ( pictures indicate rear bar really smokey from high boost and most likely turbo seal dead!)

thanks! sorry for the q's/

i am aiming for 220rwkw @ 4500rpm from a reliable turbo. engine h

Edited by s13rb26
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101048-2835r-hks-vs-gcg-hiflow/
Share on other sites

for that power level the hiflow should do fine. you could just get your 2835 reconditioned with new seal and what ever needs fixing by gcg. i suspect the 2835 will make more top end power, but the gcg hiflow will have less lag. is the current amount of lag acceptable? if so then get it rebuilt. moving to powerfc with airflow meter will give you a better tune also

You mentioned the GT2835R was highmounted. Are you planning on high mounting an RB25 turbo intsead? Wouldnt that require a new intercooler piping setup, oil and water lines? Your setup is already tuned to accomidate the GT2835R. I say stick to it and just recon it. Seems to be the easiest way to go. And perhaps you should hope for the best, "TURBINE OIL LEAK" may simply mean a leak through the oil lines? (happened to a mate of mine recently on his GT28R).

Fingers crossed the turbo is still in good nik, your setup sounds awesome :rolleyes:

I would be getting the 2835 repaired given a choise , they can be rebuit if its only bearings and seals . If its chopped out the piston ring groove on the turbine there is a Garrett cartridge that uses the same turbine with a larger trim version of your compressor (assumes yours is 52T) . Buy , swap compressor and run .

When it gets here send me the turbo ID tag numbers and I'll see what is closest in the Garrett marketed range of cartridges .

Cheers A .

Edited by discopotato03

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...