Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines.

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together. I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time. When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines. 

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together.  I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time.  When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Cheers mate. I'll let you no how I get on :)

Hmmm....

So with -

- GTT I/C

- Highflow

- 12 psi

- Fuji Catback

- HKS Panel Filter

- IEBC

- DFA

What soughts of power figures am I looking at there? Would it get 160 - 180 awkw?

Same as the above, but with a split dump and 1.1 bar = 200 4wkw.

:unsure: cheers :D

Bleed Valve. Piece of shit though

Obviously was! Cost you a turbo, me thinks! (sorry!)

First thing I did was ditch the Turbosmart bleedvalve (set at 10 but overspiked) and put in a Hybrid brand EBC. To be safe. Im running 12psi now (approx 11.8 actually is the top it gets to), but generally get off the gas when it gets to around 10psi.

With a hiflow with steel wheels, forget the low boost stuff. Thats for ceramic wheels. Hi / Lo settings should be 15 / 12 and that should be safe for the engine *with all supporting mods.

*GCG turbo, air filter, GTT 'cooler, full exhaust, EBC, SITC, fuel pressure regulator (or injectors), 14psi would surely be 200awkw, with a nice and safe tune.

My opinion only (worthless!!) =P

Im led to believe the GCG hiflow is best suited for optimal power/torque to be run at 15-17psi on a internally-standard RB25DET (use a EBC fellas!), can anyone confirm?

I would have thought running 12psi would be a waste on a hiflow'd turbo. Maybe talk to GCG and ask 'em?

10psi is too low tho for a hiflow steel wheel turbo (if you've got the supprting mods - which you have). Good for ceramic standard turbos but a bit of a waste on a modd'd Stagea!

Go 14psi, nice and safe tune on the PFC Alex, you've got the supporting mods as such, so it'd be perfect for everyday use - remember your right foot is the rEaL boost controller.

=) Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...