Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Do they come with wastegates Daniel?

cheers

Chris

Most of them do in the smaller ones Chris. by small I mean GT2860R or smaller. Some of the larger ones do but is rare. I can let you know if they do if you have one in mind.

Also you can use your standard actuator on a new turbo if you like....the actuator still does the same job.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1864878
Share on other sites

I got the price back to graft the RB turbine housing onto the GT30R and it is around $2150. You would need around another $150 to get the braided lines for water and oil done and to make up something for the 4 inch inlet. But still rated at 500hp with the RB rear on it and still bolts straight up to the stock manifold and dump pipe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1864885
Share on other sites

yo dan mate

i notice no gt3240s etc?

those not available. (not intrested for me - just a general intrest)

thanks

mick

Yeah they should be mate. I just don't think they are called that anymore. Can you tell me what hp rating they were and possibly what exhaust a/r they came with. They will match up to something on the list somewhere.

Oh and BTW, I am sorry to say that due to the fact that the T04Z's sold out before they hit the shelf....Garrett in their infinite wisdom have decided to jack the living crap out of the price on them.

They are now $2165. Retail on them has jumped to $2750. Sorry mate. I hope you didn't end up wanting one.

I'll also send a message to my rep and find out what might match up to the old 3240 that you know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1871740
Share on other sites

Dan might be an idea to have a matching list of specs (or add additional specs) to the price listing

I would also think that should you be able to get something that bolts onto the existing manifold and dump with minimal intake mods and new oil and water lines and you would make a KILLING

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1872173
Share on other sites

Dan might be an idea to have a matching list of specs (or add additional specs) to the price listing

I would also think that should you be able to get something that bolts onto the existing manifold and dump with minimal intake mods and new oil and water lines and you would make a KILLING

I can get it done to the standard manifold...no probs at all. I am going to price up how much to make the adaptor plate and then how much to sprayweld it to the manifold....it's the only proper way to do it.

Shouldn't be anymore than say $150 but problem is the dump pipe still won't go up to the T2 style flange...that's where you have the problems.

I'll figure something out though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1878663
Share on other sites

ripper yeh gt 3240 approx 600hp-700hp with a 0.82 exh

thanks dan

yeh dont worry about t04z :D

That was easy. The turbos in the list rated at that much horsepower and with the 0.82 are the 714568-2, the SB8006A (which is what was used to be called a GT30R), and the GT3582R-IW which is an internal wastegated version of the 714568-2. Price on those is $1850 and $1890...(don't forget my PM)

Cheers, Daniel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101678-turbos/#findComment-1878685
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...