Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I have recently set a power goal of 200 rwkw for my RB20DET R32. At the moment I have between 160rwkw and 170rwkw. The mods I have are:

3inch Exhaust

ZG30 Turbo

Boost controller running 12 - 14 psi

No A/M ECU yet. Looking at the Power FC.

Besides from a FMIC, what mods should I look at for squeezing out an extra 40kw at the wheels?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/
Share on other sites

remapped ecu, good cold air intake, fuel pump, 3" split dump and get it tuned. i dont think you will make 200 however

What paulr33 said.

#But your 3'' xorst will still be ok as long as it is 3'' from the turbo back.

#Hi flow air filter.

#Remapped ecus are allright.But if you have the money get a pfc.

#Maybee a adj fpr.Becuase at high injector duty you will want constant high pressure in teh fuel rail.I was told this by CRD.

#A hi flow rb20 or 25 turbo and you will make over 200rwkw.

Other than that teh stock turbo wont push beyond 180-190rwkw that easily.You do need all of these,though,if you want to get the max! out of your current setup.You need an upgrade on the turbo.

As you would have allready seen though dynos are conservative to say the least.With many saying their car has 200+rwkw on the stock turbo.When i was at CRD my r33 was tuned to 182rwkw stock turbo with a 2.75'' dump,stock cat and 3.5'' xorst from then on.With all the usual other mods.

I hope your not running 14psi in the heat of the day with that tiny intercooler.After the powah look at the suspension if you havent allready.Then take it to the track and thrash it!!

I am at the point now where i can upgrade the turbo and easily make 220rwkw.

HTH... ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1866474
Share on other sites

Ill also get it tuned on Shell Optimax Extreme and see how that goes.

Is that the 100ron stuff? If so i heard it wasnt good for skylines, apparently it only works well in new cars.

I havent tried it though, i just stick with my BP Ultimate.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1867113
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update. I have installed a FMIC and an apex'i power intake. It actually made alot more of a difference than I expected it to! Its alot louder now too:). I am almost ready to order a PowerFC for it. Any suggestions where the best place for one is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1904055
Share on other sites

hey dude, ive got a 4dr 32 aswell and i made 170rwkw with rb25 turbo, gtr fuel pump, 1bar boost, 3" turbo back exhaust, and shitty hks mushroom pod

no front mount... its on the way though and itll be in the car soon

my point is... get an aftermarket dump pipe!

they do HEAPS

go look at your stocker and youll see that the bit where the wastegate opens goes into a "wall" in the dump pipe... VERY bad design, causes a SH*TLOAD of turbulance when the wastegate opens and makes exhaust gases flow really sh*tty.

also, i assume that by ZG30 turbo, you meant VG30 out of a 300ZX.

if this is the case, go get that hi-flowed.

many people have had good results with hi-flowing that turbo because of its decently large exhaust housing

PS: GET THAT DUMP PIPE!!!

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1904961
Share on other sites

You may want to figure if the VG30 turbo you have is the steel wheeled version. As you should be able to run 18+psi fairly reliably. And with other sensible mods Such as a Good quality split front/dump, Quality cat (a metal one), GT-R injectors, Regulator and PFC or remap there is no reason why you can't comfortably surpass the 200rwkw figure.

Oh and finding a PFC for a 32 can be difficult. "AP Engineering" make em.. don't know why.

This is why so many 32 owners opt for the remap instead. Wich can net very healthy results if performed correctly.

Good luck anyway :P

Edited by Drift_Limo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1905506
Share on other sites

sure r u? have you driven one? big call if you havent.

imo most remaps are just stock tune with fc and speed limiter removed

a remaped ecu(tune by Adelaides Guru) and just a stock wt fcd comp were both tested out on Huddys car both power curves were exactly the same?

oh and VG30 turbo's never came with steel rear wheel from the factory.

Edited by 1400r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1907651
Share on other sites

AS everyone else has mentioned:

FMIC (which you have now)

Apexi air filter (whic you have now)

3" dump all the way through (with a "CUSTOM" cat :D )

PFC is the way to go if you can afford it but there is nothing wrong with getting a ECU remap by someone like Dr Drift, Sams results kinda speak for themselves!!!!

If you want info on the "CHEAPEST" AP Engineered Power FC then PM :)

Other than that good luck with your power figure and hope you get what your looking for...

Cheers B

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1907776
Share on other sites

check out huddys thread in the ceffy section

mods needed

fuel pump

exhaust

fcd

2530 or similar

front mount

boost required 1 bar

result 215 rwkw

That sounds like alot, I have fuel pump, 3inch exhaust/dump pipe, gtr injectors, wolf 3d, cooler, and 1bar and Im making 160rwkw, altho my turbo is still stock.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101782-200rwkw/#findComment-1910154
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...