Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You've got a remapped ecu that is certianly not tuned for your bigger turbo... There is your problem. You can't hear all pinging. It'll be rattling those forgies left right and center and you won't have  clue till you start seeing blue smoke in the rearview mirror.

Dumbest shit ever.

Go and get your car tuned properly before you kill it.

if you had of Listed your mods to start with, explained what you've done, and didn't be a smartassed prick about it you might have gotten better answers. You wonder why people have got no idea what you're on about and can't help you? Noticed the scattered posts that people have left here with no idea?

Is it just me, or does SAU get stupider by the week?

"Everyone, omg, wtf, I just installed a bigger turbo and my car doesn't ping at 20psi! Whats wrong with it!!!!1111oneone!!111!!"

try reading the question properly! in the future instead of writing just wat is in your head, actually y bother if you just want to be a smartass. The reason i didnt list the supporting mods is cause it has no effect on the ACTUAL question, you just wanted to pick s*%t.

secondly you say "Is it just me, or does SAU get stupider by the week?"

sorry we dont all just sit behind a computer and think we r clever cause we can type we can actually do the mods OURSELFS "mechanically minded" instead of paying a performance shop $$$$ to do it for us,

Edited by EVL032
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1880568
Share on other sites

thanks you actually offered help!!! :D

With a rebuilt turbo it should be more efficent, meaning more airflow at the same psi of restriction. So actually if it was tuned on map it would be more likely to ping and if on maf same thing but max it out sooner and go into rich mapping to avoid detonation, maybe thats why.

A new turbo wont give you more boost on the same setting, (i dont care who you are) its just a setting to tell the wastegate when to open.

My 2 cents.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1880583
Share on other sites

dipshit, I did the mods myself. I don't tune, because I don't have the equipment.

You started off with the smartassed remarks, and you went on about why your car isn't pinging... thats just a dumb question... I know enough about tuning to know that its not pinging for a reason...which is probably good...

you want it to ping... go and fuel up with 91 octane fuel..

Edited by The Mafia
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1881386
Share on other sites

Do you have electronic Boost control?

if so, it shoudl hold the same boost.

Do you have standard Boost control?

if so, I doubt it would just 7 psi just from changing the turbo.

Do you have a blee valve?

is so, it's probably knacker or have been knocked during the refitting and needs to be adjusted back.

Do you have an aftermarket computer?

if not, your stock computer is doing the rich and retard dance.

More details, or we are all pissingg in the wind, and I don't like getting wet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1882099
Share on other sites

okay iam over it

i dont want it to ping i know that

isnt this a forum where ppl help, so i was just curious as to y????

read the question

dipshit, I did the mods myself. I don't tune, because I don't have the equipment.

You started off with the smartassed remarks, and you went on about why your car isn't pinging... thats just a dumb question... I know enough about tuning to know that its not pinging for a reason...which is probably good...

you want it to ping... go and fuel up with 91 octane fuel..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883864
Share on other sites

EVL032

We need to know everything about the problem including supporting modifications before we can accurately help.

What you have done is said this

I just put new tyres on my bike.

Then I fell off.

Why?

Please give us some more details.

BASS OUT

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883875
Share on other sites

Do you have electronic Boost control?

if so, it shoudl hold the same boost.

yes but its a little old school its the hks ez

that was set on 13 before changed turbo when turbo went back in and no one moved the dial was at 20psi

Do you have standard Boost control?

if so, I doubt it would just 7 psi just from changing the turbo.

the internal wastegate is set at 15psi, but yeh refer question 1

Do you have a blee valve? n/a

is so, it's probably knacker or have been knocked during the refitting and needs to be adjusted back.

Do you have an aftermarket computer? remap

if not, your stock computer is doing the rich and retard dance.

now i got it sorted anyway i got it a 18psi that me happy enough atm, till can re-tune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1883877
Share on other sites

that was set on 13 before changed turbo when turbo went back in and no one moved the dial was at 20psi

The ebc works on a fixed duty cycle to set boost. If it were a 'learning' ebc where you dial in 15psi and it learns what duty cycle required to achieve that boost level at various rpms then it would be a different story.

I think maybe a boost leak has been fixed up in the process. :P

Edited by Cubes
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1888463
Share on other sites

mmhh yeh i guess so! i agree with that.

yeh there was deffinantly problems before..... but now all good .yay!

The ebc works on a fixed duty cycle to set boost. If it were a 'learning' ebc where you dial in 15psi and it learns what duty cycle required to achieve that boost level at various rpms then it would be a different story.

I think maybe a boost leak has been fixed up in the process. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101829-pinging/page/2/#findComment-1895083
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...