Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The fuel pump in Di's R33 died last night after she picked mu up from the Schutzenfest (pity it didn’t break down on the way there - I could have had more drinking time)

anyway, after the RAA towed us home I took the standard pump out and applied 12V across it (nothing happened). I then tried to use my old pump (from the upgrade on my car) and nothing happened either (it may have seized after sitting on the shelf for 12 months)

Has anyone got a standard pump I could borrow/buy to get the car going? Repco were no help as they don’t list a part, and Nissan wont be open until Monday.

Any help appreciated.

Guy

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/
Share on other sites

The fuel pump in Di's R33 died last night after she picked mu up from the Schutzenfest (pity it didn’t break down on the way there - I could have had more drinking time)

anyway, after the RAA towed us home I took the standard pump out and applied 12V across it (nothing happened). I then tried to use my old pump (from the upgrade on my car) and nothing happened either (it may have seized after sitting on the shelf for 12 months)

Has anyone got a standard pump I could borrow/buy to get the car going? Repco were no help as they don’t list a part, and Nissan wont be open until Monday.

Any help appreciated.

Guy

Some thing to be aware of mate if you apply 12 volts to a fuel pump that is not in the tank they can and will blow up. fuel vapours in the pump will ignite and kaboom. Got a R32 GTR pump. If they are the same you can borrow.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1867231
Share on other sites

Thanks Guys

Looking for a replacement pump on Monday (shops are mostly shut, and dont list a part for an imported Skyline)

Rob, thanks for the offer, I think I will wait because its such a bastard of a job to remove the cap in the tank, only want to do it once if I can.

Has anyone priced a pump (and possibly a new tank cap), what should I expect?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1867288
Share on other sites

Hi Guy,

If it's of any help, I still have my old original pump if you need it. I'll chuck it in the boot and bring it to work with me. I work over in Keswick, so if you're in the vicinity you're welcome to it.

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1868652
Share on other sites

Hi Guy,

If it's of any help, I still have my old original pump if you need it.  I'll chuck it in the boot and bring it to work with me.  I work over in Keswick, so if you're in the vicinity you're welcome to it. 

Cheers,

Mike

Hi Mike

If you get this before you go to work, my number is 0413 648 750.

Can you give me a call and let me know when and where I can catch up with you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1868987
Share on other sites

Went to Nissan to price a stock pump - $780 :lol: :) :lol: ;) I could almost replace the pump and get 550cc injectors for that amount :PBJ:

I did find out today that you cant use a test light to complete a circuit :P But the pump works OK when you connect two wires direct from the battery.

My spare pump is working, as is the one Mike gave me (thanks again Mike - I'll return the pump)

Edited by 4door_Sleeper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1869721
Share on other sites

Howdy Guy,

at least something positive came out of the exercise, eh!

Nice meeting you today and please don't go to any fuss or bother returning the pump, just pop past whenever you're in the area looking for a coffee! :P

Cheers,

Mike

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101891-fuel-pump-r33/#findComment-1871659
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...