Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My friend is about to purchase a 1994 series 1 gtst. I've read that its best to get a leakdown test performed? and a compression test? Is this correct? Where abouts in canberra can perform these tests, and how much will he be looking at? Around $150- $200? Are these the best tests you can get done to show the overall condition of the engine? Obviously taking it to a mechanic would be a good start too...

Cheers

Dayne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102115-buying-a-gtst-in-canberra-testing/
Share on other sites

well to get that done you have to take it to a mechanic anyways, so after they have done the compression test get them to check over the car.

Next best thing buy of someone we all know. Then we can tell you how the car has been treated.

As to where to get read the were to get skyline serviced.

quick reference for you. Trojan / Integra / Pro Engines. All very good, trust worthy

Edited by race_snooze

Alright, The car has been to integra before... Brian, the owner of the car is apparently off SAU but ive never seen him post much, apparently works with Richard. I'll post a link up to the car, and if anyone knows much about it let me know.

I will get my friend to speak to Brian and organise a time to take it out to ed to get it checked. Thanks for the reply mate:)

Dayne

http://allclassifieds.com.au/c/ac?a=vc&i=1533137008

Edited by LO_R33

Yep, Know Brian well and we work for the same company. The guys honest and so is his 33.

I have been in his 33 a few times, it's very much stock and it is in pristine condition. This is how you want to get your 33 then do mods yourself.

I checked out the site and this car is a real steal at that price $14k). I just cant beleive how cheap skylines are getting including GTR's.

I'd get any car I bought checked out by NRMA or a very trustworthy/good mech.

Pressure/crack and cylinder compression testing will give you a good indication but there are still no garauntees. Take mine for example I had it checked by two different garages and all the tests you could dream of. Some times shit just happens and you cant see it comming.

SiN

Yup - bought the car, havent had a chance to post on here yet, as we have been to busy driving it around:P

A place in garren did the testing on the car, though didnt do what we asked for - they wrote up on the certificate that the car had 135psi in all 6.. but everyone knows no car has exact same compression in every cylinder.. and they didnt perform a leakdown test either..

Doesnt matter, the car surely does go well... i'm sure he'll come on here soon and introduce himself:)

Dayne

I thought it was a little low, and suggested that it was a little low too. Will re-do another compression test though with my own tester, just need to set aside a few hours. I wouldnt of paid $170 for someone to write that on a peice of paper though.

Dayne

I thought it was a little low, and suggested that it was a little low too. Will re-do another compression test though with my own tester, just need to set aside a few hours. I wouldnt of paid $170 for someone to write that on a peice of paper though.

Dayne

dont get me wrong as i said all cars as they get older will drop and maybe the tests were not conducted correctly. I guess ultimatly as long as they are consistant across the board you dont have alot to worry about

My GTR had 155 in 5 cyls and 150 in the other when I bought it.

I've been told upto 5% variation is nuttin to worry bout.

yea as i said from what i have always been told its better to have them consistant across the board than 5 high and one really low :P

Yeah, but what shits me is pay $170 and they didnt even do a proper compression test, where they write down what cylinders got what. i.e 1 ~ 148, 2 ~ 145, 3 ~ 147, etc etc. They just said all cylinders at 135psi. Which is what worried me a little. Anyway, the car seems healthy so it doesnt matter:)

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

Dayne

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...