Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item:1997 R33 GTS-t Type M Series 2

Location:Central Queensland

Item Condition:Very good

Reason for Selling:Building a house

Price and Payment Conditions:$25,800 nego - price drop by $2,200!!!

Extra Info: Factory ABS, A\C

Year: 1997

KMs: 32,000 (aftermarket speedo) - Only 3,000km have been done in this country!!

Colour: White

Transmission: Manual

Mods:

Engine:

HKS GT2835 Pro S (integral wastegate) 0.64 exhaust housing

HKS Stainless Steel Tubular Manifold

HKS Intercooler

3" HKS Exhaust (Turbo back)

Greddy Inlet Manifold

Nismo Adjustable Fuel Pressure Reg.

HKS 550cc injectors

HKS Air Filter

Apexi coolant surge tank

Custom Aftermarket alloy radiator

HKS oil cooler

HKS oil filter re-locator

Tomei Multilayer Head Gasket

Tomei Timing Belt

Tomei Pro Cams 270 degree cams (biggest you can get for an rb25)

Tomei Solid Lifters - extremely expensive conversion and is needed for the big cams

Tomei Valve Springs

Tomei Adjustable cam gears

Cusco Oil catch can

Tomei Fuel pump

N1 Oil Pump

HKS F Con V pro (AFM less)

Drivetrain:

OS Giken TS2BD Twin plate clutch

Nismo Slave cylinder

Enkei 17x8 front and 17x9 rear RS evolution wheels (approx 3000km on the tyres)

Tomei 2 way LSD

Project Mu Brake pads

Suspension:

Tein HA height adjustable and dampner adjustable coil overs Shocks

Tein Adjustable Caster Rods

Cusco Adjustable front strut brace

Cusco Solid Rear strut brace

Cusco Master Cylinder brace

Nismo Front sway bar

Nismo rear sway bar

Interior:

Greddy Pillar Pod

HKS Oil temp gauge

HKS Water temp gauge

Greddy Exhaust temp gauge

Greddy Boost Gauge

Momo Race Steering wheel

Blitz Type R Electronic Boost Controller

Trust FAT Turbo Timer

Standard Series 2 Interior in very good condition.

$900 dollar alarm system with remote paging system

A GTR front bar has been purchased for the car to replace the standard front bar and will be supplied with the car. Why do all hard work and spend all the money when you can buy one already done and save thousands ....

Contact Details:PM me or email me at [email protected]

image1.jpg

27692l.jpg

27695l.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102160-modified-series-2-r33-gts-t/
Share on other sites

This car is awesome, its sounds better than any r33 gts-t on the street bar none (thanks to the head work and HKS exhaust ;)), has a very linear power delivery and potentional for more power.

I have a graph from a dyno that i don't believe is very accurate, but on it it made 230rwkw on it, yet the car can is faster than cas that have made 250+rwkw on other dynos..

Edited by ookami

still for sale .... c'mon ... people import a stock series 2 for 20 grand but won;t pay an extra 5,800 for a car with $30,000 worth of mods!!! You people are crazy .....

Very interested BUT I'm in Brisbane...not quite interested enough to fly up there to check it out. If I was in Rocky I'd be over there in a flash.

The mods look good though.

How's the tune for Australian fuel and temperature?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...