Jump to content
SAU Community

4+6 Point 3" Harnesses - Fai Approved - $329


Recommended Posts

1. abcent - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

2. Rowdyr32 - Black or Red, 6 point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

3. KamikazeR33 - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

4. 9krpm - Black, 6 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

5. Bass Junky - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

6. gadg/ Let Me Drive - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

Hi Guys,

Meridian Motorsport is able to offer the Skylines Australia the following group buy special on the MotorQuality brand 4 & 6 point, 3” race harness.

The MotorQuality harnesses are manufactured from high quality Italian components & feature a traditional aircraft style rotary turnbuckle with offset tangs on top webbing for increased driver comfort.

They are available in red, blue & black.

All harnesses will have a 5 year FIA life

The recommended retail for the 4 point 3” harness is $399 & $435 for the 6 point.

Group buy price of $329 for the 4 point & $365 for the 6 point harness -

Minimum group purchase of 5 harnesses, colors to be specified at order.

I will take control of this group buy and at this stage please only post if you are want one or have questions (no other crap posts please) Please post colour required. We will not do anything till we have a group of at least five. If we get more, then I will go back to Meridian for a cheaper price.

Also ERG Harnesses are avaliable. I believe these come out of the same factory as Sparco ones and are an exact copy.

4 point retail $359, group buy $324

6 point retail $399, group buy $360

Thanks, Chris.

post-6928-1137635322.jpg

post-6928-1137635365.jpg

put me down for a Black MotorQuality 4 point harness!

might be a stupid question, but do they come with a "how to install" guide, want to know where its best to anchor them from? ie/ the rear parcel shelf?

Not sure which one would be the best one to go with. I would think that their isn't going to be much difference in quality at all. Both have 5 years FIA stadards attached. I have a ERG one and it's good.

They are pretty easy to install. They just come with some eyelets that are threaded the same as you existing seatbelt bolts. So you just unscrew the existing seat belt anchor bolts and screw these in as a replacement. Then it's just a case of hooking the ends of each belt to the eylets. Which is a clip on/off belay setup similar to rock climbing gear. The top harness belts attach to the rear passenger seat bolts between your rear seats. So the beauty of the setup is that you can still keep your exising belts and have no problems removing and re-installing at any time. A few of the vic guys have these already, so we can show you how we did ours. This is the case with the four point setup in a standard street trip vehicle anyway. Obviously if you were running a cage, or other strut bars, or 6-point there is additional work and you should probably consult a CAMS scrutineer at a minimum.

The other good thing about these are they bolt into the standard ADR approved seat belt mounts, so you know these wont just let go, and have been crash tested.

Just spoke to tony before. He said the erg harnesses are made in an asia country ( I can't remember which one) and he recomended the motorquality harnesses since the are made in italy.

Chris put me down for a 6 point harness by motorquality. He said there are heaps coming. Can I specify colour later. Can't choose between black (inconspicous?) or red for rice.

Those pics dom't show how:

The top harness belts attach to the rear passenger seat bolts between your rear seats.

Could someone post these pics because I'm interested.

No go on those photos?

See here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...0entry1882711

Post # 49 - Matt has provided photo's of how most of us have setup our harnesses.

My suggestion is to seek expert advise from a qualified CAMS scrutineer (or Meridian) as to your individual setup, as safety is of the highest importance. Many people have raised valid questions to the validity of some installation methods. I personally will stick with the installation setup as shown in the photo's, as this works for me.

These racing harnesses are all FIA approved. No 4/6 point harness are ADR or dotars approved for use in a street car – legally you have to use your lap sash on the street – no exceptions. You can have the 4/6 point fitted to the car, but legally you have to be using the lap sash as well.

don't suppose these are ADR approved?

We need one more person for this group buy to go ahead.

1. abcent - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

2. Rowdyr32 - Black or Red, 6 point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

3. KamikazeR33 - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

4. 9krpm - Black, 6 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

5. Bass Junky - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

6. gadg/ Let Me Drive - Black, 4 Point Motorquality harness - CONFIRMED

As soon as we get a fifth person we will go ahead. If your sure you want one pete let me know and we can go ahead.

Has everyone else got funds and still commited? Please PM me if your ready to go. Once I have five PM's I will reply with account details. If you require shipping please let me know that your are not in Victoria. PM me with your address and I will calculate shipping.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...