Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Friend of mine will be picking up his 32 GTR within the next few weeks, and we've been trying to source a chunky strut brace, for some reason they all seem to be these stupid pansy thin tube type units with adjustment bolts!

Why on earth would you want an adjustment bolt that can work its way loose on a strut bar?

Can anyone point us in the direction of some nice chunky solid braces? I have a JIC unit in my Supra, attatchment included (excuse the dirt). Really looking to find a couple of brands that make nice solid units like these.

If you have a nice solid strut bar for Skyline, post pics and what brand it is please.

Thanks a lot.

Dan.

post-15024-1137652403.jpg

Considering this is the type of crap most people seem to have on their cars, it has adjustment bolts at both ends! The JIC is definately a hell of a lot chunkier than most. Only chunkier ones I've seen are the TRD Supra and the Nismo R34 GTR.

04_1_b.JPG

Dan.

Edited by Sicarius123

Exactly why does there need to be adjustment though? As far as I'm concerned, if you need to adjust it to make it fit, you have a bent chassis, otherwise it should be a very tight fit to get on anyway to work effectively.

Also, having a screw there it would definately work its way loose eventually on a part that has that much stress put on it.

Front strut bars really do make a decent difference in turn in on a vehicle too, I've noticed this in my car, as well as the few other friends who have gotten decent strut bars.

Dan.

you'll be suprised. Depending on the type of strut brace. If you look at a stock gtr strut brace, there is no way the adjuster can work itself loose.

It's hard ot describe. I dont' ahve a pic either. But imagine that you chop the brace in half. one side of the middle looks liek a bolt thread. The other is liek a nut thread. so it screws into the other side.

You adjust it, then put it on, and there is no way it will change, unless if you take the brace off and adjust it.

/yeah, I agree about the picture shown above. THat thing would literalyl do just about nothing.

if u want to stiffen up things get some sway bars.  im sure theres a limit to how much you can stiffen things with a strut bar hence going any bigger will make no difference at all.  its just all looks after that.

:D

Sway bars don't "stiffen" anything. Well, not in the context of chassis reinforcement (which is what a strut brace does).

try cusco. they are basically exactly the same design as the one on your supra

theres a guy on here selling cusco stuff at reasonable prices, just search cusco should be there...

i totally agree with the fat looking strut brace.

whiteline strut braces do nothing for me, especially aesthetically..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
    • EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features
×
×
  • Create New...