Jump to content
SAU Community

Pipercross Panel Filter Verses

skidkid

By skidkid,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

skidkid Proficient

skidkid

Posted
Posted

Fellow boostaholics, Has anybody got comparisons (eg. power and restriction) between having a good quality panel filter (Pipercross or k&n) compared 2 a good cold air box and good pod filter?. Make sure u have a couple for Aus. day. Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103301-pipercross-panel-filter-verses/
Share on other sites
Techo Collaborator

Techo

Posted
Posted

What I found is that a decent pod costs about the same as a panel filter if not more, & you have to stuff around with making a cold air box for the pod = more $$$, & The problem with an unboxed pod is that it sucks in HEAPS of hot air from the engine bay.

Or you could buy a VL-VP Commodore K&N ($99) or Splitfire ($60) panel filter from just about anywhere & stick it straght in. no stuffing round & about the same gains as a boxed pod filter.

Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

I found that on my old r33, I did have a high flow K&N in the stock box, but I picked up a pod for like $25 with everything to bolt it on.

I didnt have a cold air intake box, the pod just sucked air from the engine bay.

I didnt see any difference by just swapping, other than lovely intake suction and bov whoosh noises coming out of the pod.

I would think that a pod with a proper cold air intake setup with proper vents to allow air to flow through to it would probably be great on the track, but for everyday use I wouldnt think there would be much difference between a high flow panel in the stock airbox or a pod in a CAI setup....?

Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

I have 255rwkw and the stock airbox witha nismo panel filter in it. Only 0.9 bar too so no restrictions apparent anywhere.

Mik makes 390rwkw with stock airbox and tommyk 330.

I figure there are better things to spend my money on than a pod. That's all.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)

It is worth noting that the Mines R34GTR (600 bhp) uses the standard airbox, with a high flow filter and their own snorkel.

:P cheers :O

PS; the Bass Junky Stagea air deflector (using my design) will also have a scoop for the inlet snorkel. This is the thread on my tests for inlet air temp using the prototype. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=55489

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...