Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, i'm looking into perhaps buying an R32 GTR later on in the year, and i'm currently looking into what's available and what I should be looking for. I've had a look at some ads and seen the term 'suicide switch' thrown around. Now, as far as I know (not very far, but still) the GTR's are constant 4WD. There wasn't much information, but the general gist I got was that this particular GTR had a switch where you could switch between full 4WD and RWD. My previous understanding was that it was possible to stop the power going to the front wheels, but only by stuffing around with some of the drivetrain mechanics.

I don't want to waste too much of your time with newb questions, so in short, what i'm looking to confirm is:

- The R32 GTR is constant 4WD?

- Is it possible (with the right electronics knowledge) to build in one of these 'suicide switches' that allows you to manually enable/disable the front wheels at will?

Thanks ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103454-qs-regarding-r32-gtr-drive/
Share on other sites

None of the GT-Rs are constant 4WD. They're only 4WD on demand.

The difference between a GT-R and your average "part time 4WD" shitbox is that, when its not in 4WD, the GT-R drives the right set of wheels for a sports car.

On an R32, pulling a fuse will disable the ATTESSA from working. So you could quite easily install a switch to do the same thing.

Ok, i've done a bit more reading, just to make sure I understood it...

By default, the GT-R will send the torque to the rear wheels only? When the ATTESA ecu detects slip on one of the rear wheels, it then re-distributes some torque to the front wheels to keep the car under control (Thus creating 4WD)?

Hate to be a pest, but I was having one of those stupid little arguments about it and somehow we ended up with $20 on the table, so I need to be 100% sure ^_^

That's a very generalised way of looking at it..

not only does it look at slip - but current speed, angle of the steering wheel, Throttle, and probably another couple of things than it engages the front wheels..

the R34 are alot smarter and tend to predict what you are going to do..

go take one for a test drive.. see how it goes, watch the torque gauge..

Awesome. So it really just looks at multiple factors and enganges the front wheels when it thinks it's necessary.

I was thinking about test-driving one, but i'm not buying that soon and I don't like to waste people's time.

Anyway, thanks for the help guys, I think i've got it understood now. Yay.

Thanks Links. I'd forgotten about that (too long since I looked up or talked about ATTESSA).

Aside from detecting slip, the car knows from its other sensors where in a corner you are.

Assuming you have traction all the way through the corner:

On the straight its RWD. Under brakes and on turn-in its still RWD, which preserves its response and steering feel as the front wheels are not being corrupted by torque.

Once you pass the apex and get back on the power, the ATTESSA will funnel some torque to the front to pull you out of the corner, even if you have full traction. That will let you feed more power on as well as well as improve the power split to keep the car neutral as the rear tyres aren't being overwhelmed by demands on it.

Its all about maximising the amount of grip all four tyres can offer you by only putting torque to them when you can and when its needed.

I could write a longer post on it if you want, but you'd be just as well served Googling for it.

- Is it possible (with the right electronics knowledge) to build in one of these 'suicide switches' that allows you to manually enable/disable the front wheels at will?

Thanks  :)

I have an old Japanese GTR video that shows 2 R32 GTR's partially enabling the front wheels using a switch (for a drag). Its all in Japanese so I don't know what they are on about but with the right electronic mind and skill you can enable the front wheels permanently.

The 2 GTR's 'front torque guage' needle peaked at different levels so theres obviously a fair bit of knowledge needed to get it where you want it....but I guess it can be done :D

It works off a variety sensors. And, just like plugging in an SAFC to do light tuning on your ECU, if you modify the signal the ATTESSA controller gets from those sensors you can control the way it behaves.

Well I was only really referring to enabling/disabling the whole attessa system (turning the GTR into a constant RWD), but turning it into a constant 4WD sounds more interesting...

Would permanently enabling the front wheels have any disadvantages as far as traction or the genaral handling are corncerned? Power output would also be the same, only spread over all 4 wheels, yes?

Maybe I should stop pestering people on forums and go do some research myself, hehe :P

Mmmm, having done a bit of reading on how everything works, it seems stupid to try to change it at all. I'm gonna have to take one for a test drive when I get closer to a purchase (have a small loan that needs to be paid off first), but i'm pretty much sold. The challenge will be to find a fairly stock one in decent condition.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds very old of me, however since buying the Tiguan shit box, my view on shit boxes have changed.
    • I've looked up the parts number (41011AL501). It's around $700 OEM. Usually our Infiniti G35 here in Canada have interchangeable parts with my Stagea but the parts number are not the same. I have looked around and it seems the JDM 2005 V35 Skyline (which is the same as our G35) has the same caliper but I cannot confirm. And I can't find a repair kit. The inner brake pads drags on the rotor, seems to be rusty piston. Thanks for the info by the way
    • This coupled with 6-9 speed autos with ridiculously short gearing is why these modern shitbox cars always seem so fast off the line. If it wasn't for those things, Raptors would not seem fast. The problem we have is there is a driveability gap between a more gentle take off and a wheelspinning sideways launch. The difference between ankle flex required to achieve one and ankle flex required to achieve the other is about 0.5°.
    • Yeah I think I'm also with the opposite here. It's 'hard to keep up with traffic' because in the real world I'm accelerating with 15% throttle and they are pinning it. It feels like I'm being an overt dickhead at anything above 15% throttle, so the car sounds like I'm being an overt dickhead to keep up with/get ahead of traffic when I'm really just trying to drive with traffic. There would be no issue 'keeping up with traffic' if we used the same level of throttle input/aggression to drive around. People really do just drive around with their foot nearly pinned in econoboxes.
    • To be fair it's the other way around. 300kw is boring in a modern Golf or BMW. They are so competent / well-engineered / devoid of emotion that you have to go stupid fast to feel anything. Whereas the <300kw RB still makes all the right noises and it feels good to drive. Can pull off at the lights with the turbo whooshing and the blow-off pssshing and feel like the coolest kid on the block. Just don't look to the side where you'll see the bored housewifes in their shitbox Yaris/Corolla/Camry that kept up because you didn't go fast at all
×
×
  • Create New...