Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel Pump And Gtr Injector Q

mr_rbman

By mr_rbman,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
Posted

well i'm about to install some gtr injectors into my RB30 twin cam with a resistor pack and i'm just looking for a few people that have done this that could give me a few pointers like things to get and what to do to make life easier, i've already had a few pointers from Joel but would like some more opinions.

Also i'm going to get the 32 tuned once the injectors and afm is in hopefully by next weekend, the mods are as follws:

VG30 turbo

GTR fuel pump

GTR injectors

Z32 AFM

Power fc

All the other usual mods

Basically what i want to know is will the fuel pump be good enough to take me into the VG30's full efficiency or am i better off upgrading the fuel pump now?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103741-fuel-pump-and-gtr-injector-q/
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

The gtr fuel pump should be good for around 300rwkw however if your changing your injectors you should look at the fuel rail and possibly upgrade it with a nismo fuel regulator. are you using the rb20 head? any reason you opted for gtr injectors?

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The gtr fuel pump should be good for around 300rwkw however if your changing your injectors you should look at the fuel rail and possibly upgrade it with a nismo fuel regulator. are you using the rb20 head? any reason you opted for gtr injectors?

went for the gtr injectors as i got them for quite a good price already cleaned and flow tested with new o-rings etc, the only down side being that they aren't a straight fit as such!

I'm using the Rb25de head!

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

There should be plently of direct fit injectors to suit the rb25 head saves stuffing around with injectors modules and so forth. S15 manual injectors are a direct fit and are rated at 480cc

mr_rbman Grand Master

mr_rbman

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
There should be plently of direct fit injectors to suit the rb25 head saves stuffing around with injectors modules and so forth. S15 manual injectors are a direct fit and are rated at 480cc

its the de non turbo head. takes top feed like the rb20 and rb26!

not side feed injectors!

Its not that hard to put the resistor pack in, was just looking for tips/pointers!

Edited by mr_rbman
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Grab a set of injector plugs to suit a VL/R31 from motor traders.. ~$51 for 6 plugs. They come in packs of 2.

Well worth the hassle of trying to trim up the gtr injectors to make them fit the rb20 plugs. The gtr injectors have lugs in different spots. + chances are your injector plug boots are split.

Jaycar:

Grab some decent wire and lots of it as you need to run 7 lengths from the loom just under the t/b right up to where you want to mount the resistor pack.

a flux pen

solder

soldering iron

Cheap multimeter for checking checking checking. :(

Motor mates:

8pin Navara plug to suit the R30 resistor pack ~$2.90

3pin Navara plug to join the front 3 injector loom to the rear 3 injector loom. It will make sense when you pull it out.

Dialetic grease - Prevent corrosion on the navara plugs.

Crimping tool

Lots of good quality insulation tape. Around 3 big rolls.

Its relatively easy to do but will take the whole day as you have to remove the cross over pipe and throttle body.

Be sure to grab some gasket paper or a gasket from nissan for the throttle body. Mine broke. :P

To be honest.. Its a real pain in the back leaning over fiddling for so long.

Dial in 58.5% inj. correction and it will start and idle perfectly. You may have to adj. idle slightly via the screw and then init the pfc so that it can relearn. Always set idle via the screw to as close but never over the value within the pfc. Doing so I get a 100% stable idle with no hunting or stalling.

Mine runs pig rich on boost so its really only worth it limping around.

EDIT: As the R30 resistor pack has slightly more resistance from my calcs dialing in +0.04ms lag correction will set it perfectly as if it were running the gtr resistor pack.

I've fiddled with it, the adjustment slightly makes it run ever so slightly richer. idles, starts does every thing the same so I really wouldn't worry about fiddling with inj. lag correction.

Fuel pump will be fine providing it was new when you slapped it in.. If it was s/h then chances are its 10 odd years old and most probably getting a little lazy.. So keep your eye on it. :D

Old fuel pumps make me nervous.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...