Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I am a fresh member and was wondering if you guys could help me out with my queries.

- where is the best place to get a front bar for a reasonable price

- where is the best place to get the front bar painted and put on

- where is the best place to get a modified bonnett

- where can i get updated s2 headlights to go on a s1

Any info would be great,

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103954-skyline-r33-front-bars/
Share on other sites

the for sale section here would be a good start though just be careful that the item is in as described condition. Other places in Canberra are J Racing for the front bar, spraying and fitting. a few guys on here have had some work done by them. I took mine to newgel they did an ok price but the quality of work could have been better.

hope that helps a little

ps series 2 lights from nissan are bloody expensive so look for some from a wrecker or the for sale section

hmm i though you only needed front bar, headlights and bonnet maybe do a search on here to find out i think its a common sort of thing people wanting their dull series ones to look like series twos :rofl:

maybe your right, but when i asked a few people about doing a series II conversion they said i needed the gaurds too? Just something to sus out a little more anyway. ;)

Dayne

Oh and yes, Evo, let me give you a quick example:

I walk in there (17 yr old)

"Hi i would like a price on a rear boot lid for an r33, looks at me $300"

My dad walks in there (40 yr old)

"Hi i would like a price on a rear boot lid for an r33, oh yeah sure, comes with a S2 wing as well ~ $150"

This was two days apart... other then that they've been fine to me. I was just suggesting to go have a look as they had alot of bars upstairs when i went up there...

Dayne

I think that your sh*t out of luck looking for a front bar or bonnet in Canberra unless you go to J'Racing and talk to Jerry about it (he's not cheap though because he will not do a half assed job) but if you want good parts at a reasonable price for Skylines, call Just Jap auto imports in Kirrawee in Sydney and get Tony or Darren to send you a bar and bonnet and ask them what you need to do to put the headlights in... Trust me when I say that they are the most cluey guys when it comes to Nissans and they will help you out no problems at all.

Also when you get the bar and you want it painted talk to Prestige smash repairs (I think they're in queanbeyan Im not sure tho) cos they resprayed my friends car and it is immaculate (I would know cos I was a new car detailer for 3 years).... Hope I could help man :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
×
×
  • Create New...