Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when i hit full boost at 1.2bar it cuts and pressure drops to about 0.6-0.7bar then re spools up then cuts then re spools etc....at full throttle. it wont hold it there

its happened 2 out of the last 4 nights. problem seems to go away then come back again.

its on an r32 gtst with gt2530 fmic afc2 ebc... has also happened on the lower boost settings. have checked all the vac hoses and connectors.

anyone experience this before??

I seem to be having a similar problem, and we cant come up with a solution at the moment. Car is at the mechanics now.

I just had a gt3040 with a .48 exhaust housing installed and it is having these same symptoms on the dyno. Boost gets cut when it reaches full boost and then spools up again. This occurs with and without the boost controller in the loop. And also occurs with different sized actuators. It seems like when the wastegate opens it doesn't close quick enough hence causing the drop in boost. When the waste gate eventually closes the turbo spools up slowly (rather linear) if running low boost, but spools up quicker at high boost then drops boost again when it reaches full boost.

The wastegate doesnt appear to be sticky either (BSK you might want to check this on yours as it could be the problem, especially if it only occurs sometimes).

The back pressure in the manifold is being checked today. Some people think that the GT3040 with a .48 is too big of a mismatch (compressor size in comparison to exhaust housing) and is causing the wastegate to do funny things. But, gcg assure me that they have sold plenty of these turbos for 2L engines and have never had a problem.

Any ideas?

The dsbc has a boost cut function. This has a peak boost where the cut happens and a duty that the solenoid drops to for a second or 2 before going back to normal.

If you have set your gain too high then it will spike, ebc goes "SHIT! better cut this" it drops it down to nothing for a second or so then tries again.

I would be looking at your boost cut settings as they are probably set very close to the max boost you are running so a cooler night will allow you to overboost and also the duty reduction setting as it sounds like it has been set pretty high, drop it back to 5 or so.

the screen will flash red when it over boosts and it will beep at you.

All this relates to the old dsbc by the way that only has one level of boost cut and one gain setting, the newer ones have multiple adjustments for each setting so you may find you're boost cut in the low setting is too low as well?

Sorted!!! :D

gain was set way too high on the dsbc...around 80. brought it down to 30 as per user manual and i got a nice clean spool curve rather then it shootin straight up n bouncing off the limit settings.

cheers BHDave !!

best of luck with your problem traphead.

Edited by BSK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
×
×
  • Create New...