Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Manual Conversion

gaffa

By gaffa,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted

a few more things to add as in converting my car at the moment (not on a hoist unfortutaly)

make sure u install the brake pedal first and i did the clutch and i couldnt move the brake around enough to get it out so just ended up losening it off and unbolting the pedal itself and putting the manual pedal in the old bracket.

a realy realy super long extention is the only way u will ever get those top bolts on the gearbox out, and the starter motor in a pain for the top bolt to.

tommorow i get to take on the spigot bush...how fun

GTScotT Grand Master

GTScotT

Posted
Posted (edited)

my gearbox cross memember bolted right up :S

yet i cant get the clutch to bleed

:rolleyes:

edit after 20 times or so it finaly bleed properly, now the tail shaft center bearing is screwed, should of cheaked better

yet i found out why the crossmember bolted up, looked at the tag from the halfcut, and it says the car was an auto, so it was converted in japan, so thats why it fit, someone modified it already.

Edited by GTScotT
  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...
Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted

More useful information (4 door conversion):

I used an S13 cross member for my conversion, bolted straight up

A thing to note, if you have a 4 door you will need to use the original Rear tail shaft section as the coup rear section is about 2 inches too long.

Both the NA RB20DE auto and RB20DE manual runs a smaller bolts between the 2 sections on the tailshaft. NA has smaller 10mm bolts and the turbo Auto and turbo Manual has 14mm bolts, also the plate sizes are different.

I ended up unbolting the Spline bolt on the front section and swapping the Plate over, so mine was turbo spec.

now i have a question, whats the best way of doing the manual loom? Cutting up an auto one? Which wires do i use at the Fuse box?

Hawker180 Proficient

Hawker180

Posted
Posted

^^^

Wiring:

Ok so i got mine all sorted, The Reverse plug is the Front plug (NOT THE ONE NEAR THE SHIFTER)....just grab your old loom off the auto, cut all wires except the ones as mentioned in the first post (Hand drawn picture)....run them down to the centre plug (both wires on mine were green and black), trip them and test to see if the rear reverse lights come on when you select revers and thats about it.

the loop wire for the neutral is just on the same plug, loop the 2 wires over.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
namso786 Apprentice

namso786

Posted
Posted

Thanks alot man, This is really helpful.

I will be doing my R32 Manual conversion soon..Just not sure if its worth doing my self. I have never done one before, but I have basic mechanical knowledge, your info cleared alot of things up.

Only pain I can think of is the clutch pedal? are the R32 ones hydrolic? or cable? is it hard to do?

Thanks a bunch for sharing mate.

  • 10 months later...
silver gts-t Grand Master

silver gts-t

Posted
Posted

Extra piece of info, you can use a S13 sr20 gearbox mount.

Its basically the same as a 32 item but backwards, ie the hump in the mount is on the other side so once you turn it round and install it backwards so the holes line up and the hump ends up being on the correct side..

You will know what im talking about when u see them.

  • 9 months later...
  • 8 months later...
Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

Just starting a conversion from rb20det auto 4-door to rb25de+t with rb25det manual gearbox (yes can you choose any bigger a headfeck?).

To confirm I should just find an S13 SR20 manual gearbox crossmember for easiest mounting solution?

What do I need to get the tail shaft to be the right length?

What is the current best option for speed sensor?

Would it be better to bolt on the gearbox while it is out of the car?

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

Folks, one question regarding the pedals, I had a look and don't see how it's possible to take out and refit the pedals while the dash's still in.

Is there a way to put them while the dash is in?

Would love some answers today.

Cheerio

Grant

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Waders360
      M35 Brake caliper replacement

      By Waders360 · Posted

      Sorry. Front brake calipers
    • MBS206
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...